D-II front drive (prop) shaft for a D-1

[Andrew Homan]

OK I just got some advise on a front drive shaft that wasn't from one of you guys. I was telling this person that I plan to lift another inch or so over the 2" lift I have already. I explained that I plan to use a gbr double cardon or a Tom Woods. This person who has a 4" on their d-1 said I could just use a d-2 front shaft and be fine. I already have a new GBR drive shaft in the rear that I installed when I put in an ARB locker. I just planned to buy another shaft from Bill as he has been very helpful in the past and wouldn't steer me wrong. So I quess what I'm trying to say is this person full of crap or is there some truth to the claim and if so is it worth it.

Cheers Andy 95 D-1 2" ome lift, arb locker w/238/85/16 winch bumper and winch, safari rack and those dreadful sliders I made.

 

[sean]

it works just change the ouput flange from the tranfercase.

 

[curtis]

It works, but there are no guarantees it will cure your problem. The issue is not so much the driveshaft as it is the pinion angle. Tweak it just a little too high and you will get vibes at certain speeds. I would suggest the GBR Double Cardon rather than the D2 simply because he replaces all of the U-Joints with serviceable ones and beefs up the DC quite a bit. If you still have vibes then you may need to go with castor corrected radius arms.

So here is what I suggest: lift the rig your extra inch and if you don't notice anything then don't do anything. Order you shaft if you get a vibe...

 

[curtis]

Oh - and Bill provides the TC output flange adapter...

 

[Andrew Homan]

Thanks, I think thats what I will do. Buying one of Bills (if needed) seems to be an easir route and it's probably much stronger than a stock d-2 shaft.

Cheers, Andy 95 D1

 

[sean]

talk to your lolcal dealer when the u-joints go out, the shaft goes in the trash. talk to the mechanics and get them to save one for you. I picked up a spare from my dealer, it uses u-joints from a late model chevy. you can have a old one redone with new greaseable joints for less than $150.

 

[Andrew Homan]

Good idea. The only problem is I have no local dealer within 100 miles. I wonder if the previous owner had the joints changed as all of the have fittings.

Cheers Andy 95 D1

 

[RVRSRVC]

Just curious: If you add a spacer to the transfer case flange, doesn't it effectively shorten the driveshaft and/or change the angle of the u-joints? Also, can the driveshaft bottom out when stuffing the axle up into the chassis, if it is "shortened" by the spacer?

 

[antichrist]

I just put a DII front propshaft on my DI this past Friday. I don't have much of a lift, but will be putting on a 2" this coming weekend most likely. It looks like to me the yoke won't be fully compressed and full suspension compression, but close.

The drive shaft I put on was almost new, bought it at MAR, $50 for two of them. The other one needs u-joints which I will replace with greasable ones.
I used the DII because I got it really cheap. If I had to pay alot, I'd probably buy from GBR or Tom Woods. I have a GBR double cardan rear propshaft.