D1 Brakes

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Asolo3j

Well-known member
Nov 8, 2004
1,267
1
Annapolis
My brake pedal on my 1995 D1 went to the floor and upon further investigation 1 of the 2 brake lines that lead to the rear drivers side brakes had split and needs to be replaced. The split is located under the drivers door, just forward of where it starts to route thru the frame on its way back to the rear caliper. Necessity led me to take it to a shop (mind you this is the 2nd time in 4 years I've actually taken it in to have work done and not done it myself (the other time, I got royally screwed!)).

So i just got off the phone with the shop and they want to charge me $600 to replace the 2 lines. I agree that if they are replacing one, then they ought to replace the other. According to the mechanic, parts are $80 (some of which includes the full system brake flush and fill) and labor is $520. They claim that it will take 5 hours to reroute the lines. I said that I understand some time to attach the lines to the master cylinder, but it shouldn't take that long to snake some lines thru decent sized holes. I understand a bit of time for doing all the fittings but 5 hours... come on. I was anticipating $300 TOPS for the whole thing!

So I told them I would think about it. I cant fathom $600 for only REAR BRAKE LINES on ONE SIDE. This isn't a major brake job, they are just trying to soak me for it.

What size hose is the brake hosing that I need to replace? I might splice in a small section for temporary fix until I can get it back to my house, then pick up the tools, hoses, fittings, and do it myself.

I am not putting $600 into half of one side of breaks for a $1800 D1.
 
A

Asolo3j

Well-known member
Nov 8, 2004
1,267
1
Annapolis
I agree on a new shop. Trick is getting the disco there. I could try to splice in just a small section for a temporary fix, enough to make it drivable, then get a proper repair (whether on my own, or another shop).

Any idea on diameter of that brake line?

Sourcing the hard lines isn't too bad and they are reasonably affordable, tools are pretty inexpensive and the hose isn't to bad. I have a good feeling I'll do it myself, but I do need to get it back home first.
 
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osiristheclown

Well-known member
Aug 16, 2009
337
0
They use the european bubble flare. Brake line size is 3/16 or whatever the metric equal is. Fittings are metric. You can buy this in various lengths and do sections joined by unions (NOT compression unions!) to make it easier.

You may find this method easier than trying to create a good bubble flare with the tool. You just have to do some measuring to figure out what lengths you need so you'll be able to use the complete line without having to reflare any of the ends.
 
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Jon K

Jon K

Well-known member
Jan 28, 2007
243
0
Pennsylvania
Use a bubble flare but you could splice in a double flare for $7 of line and a free rental for the flare tool from Autozone. Been here, done this (different vehicle).
 
ChrismonDA

ChrismonDA

Well-known member
May 2, 2004
1,873
0
51
NC Johnston Co
Asolo3j said:
My brake pedal on my 1995 D1 went to the floor and upon further investigation 1 of the 2 brake lines that lead to the rear drivers side brakes had split and needs to be replaced. The split is located under the drivers door, just forward of where it starts to route thru the frame on its way back to the rear caliper. Necessity led me to take it to a shop (mind you this is the 2nd time in 4 years I've actually taken it in to have work done and not done it myself (the other time, I got royally screwed!)).

So i just got off the phone with the shop and they want to charge me $600 to replace the 2 lines. I agree that if they are replacing one, then they ought to replace the other. According to the mechanic, parts are $80 (some of which includes the full system brake flush and fill) and labor is $520. They claim that it will take 5 hours to reroute the lines. I said that I understand some time to attach the lines to the master cylinder, but it shouldn't take that long to snake some lines thru decent sized holes. I understand a bit of time for doing all the fittings but 5 hours... come on. I was anticipating $300 TOPS for the whole thing!

So I told them I would think about it. I cant fathom $600 for only REAR BRAKE LINES on ONE SIDE. This isn't a major brake job, they are just trying to soak me for it.

What size hose is the brake hosing that I need to replace? I might splice in a small section for temporary fix until I can get it back to my house, then pick up the tools, hoses, fittings, and do it myself.

I am not putting $600 into half of one side of breaks for a $1800 D1.
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600 Dollars you have to be kidding me? Are they going to come over and paint your house? You can do this all yourself, it is time consuming but you will save a shit load of money and learn about your vehicle. That is ridiculous I have the CD that can help you fix your truck. Just send me a PM and I will send you the pages on how to fix your brakes.
 
A

Asolo3j

Well-known member
Nov 8, 2004
1,267
1
Annapolis
PM sent... thanks.

I am heading out to get the lines and fittings tonight. Are the fittings on the ABS any specific fittings. I figured on them being metric, but any specific thread or type of fitting? I should be able to reuse the fittings, is it worth it to reuse or just get new ones for a couple $$.

Good advice about using unions, thanks.
 
ChrismonDA

ChrismonDA

Well-known member
May 2, 2004
1,873
0
51
NC Johnston Co
Asolo3j said:
My brake pedal on my 1995 D1 went to the floor and upon further investigation 1 of the 2 brake lines that lead to the rear drivers side brakes had split and needs to be replaced. The split is located under the drivers door, just forward of where it starts to route thru the frame on its way back to the rear caliper. Necessity led me to take it to a shop (mind you this is the 2nd time in 4 years I've actually taken it in to have work done and not done it myself (the other time, I got royally screwed!)).

So i just got off the phone with the shop and they want to charge me $600 to replace the 2 lines. I agree that if they are replacing one, then they ought to replace the other. According to the mechanic, parts are $80 (some of which includes the full system brake flush and fill) and labor is $520. They claim that it will take 5 hours to reroute the lines. I said that I understand some time to attach the lines to the master cylinder, but it shouldn't take that long to snake some lines thru decent sized holes. I understand a bit of time for doing all the fittings but 5 hours... come on. I was anticipating $300 TOPS for the whole thing!

So I told them I would think about it. I cant fathom $600 for only REAR BRAKE LINES on ONE SIDE. This isn't a major brake job, they are just trying to soak me for it.

What size hose is the brake hosing that I need to replace? I might splice in a small section for temporary fix until I can get it back to my house, then pick up the tools, hoses, fittings, and do it myself.

I am not putting $600 into half of one side of breaks for a $1800 D1.
Click to expand...


Go to Atlanticbritish.com or Roverland parts or even NAPA, and Carquest. Get the parts and then you can do it yourself and a friend to help bleed the brakes. It is not hard but time consuming and you will save alot of money doing it yourself. Just PM me if you need anymore help.
 
A

Asolo3j

Well-known member
Nov 8, 2004
1,267
1
Annapolis
I did all the tough stuff. Ran the lines to the rear and everything was looking sassy. I started to bleed the brakes to purge the air out and once I started to get steady stream of fluid and brake pedal pressure the fitting at the block started leaking. It looks like the original flare was the "European bubble flare" and I put on a traditional double flare.

The double flare worked just fine for the larger of the two fittings at the block for the rear lines. But the smaller fitting will not take with the double flare. Are there dies to do a European Bubble Flare that will work with the inexpensive flaring tool? Or is it easier to buy a section of tubing that already has a factory Euro bubble flare and I can put a traditional double flare on the other end to mate with the rest of the line?

I am guessing it's easier to buy the small section with the Euro flare, but if a die is readily avail, then I'll just buy that.

Overall not a horrible process to replace hard lines. Its tedious and it took me every bit of 5 hours with a lunch break, but there is no fuckin way I would ever pay a shop $600 for this job when I've got $50 in to it (including the tool, tubing, fittings, bender, fluid, etc...).
 
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osiristheclown

Well-known member
Aug 16, 2009
337
0
Which is why I said to buy the line in sections with the bubble flares and nuts already done, and join them by unions. Fuck around all you want making it go, do not play games when it comes to stopping it.
 
ChrismonDA

ChrismonDA

Well-known member
May 2, 2004
1,873
0
51
NC Johnston Co
Asolo3j said:
I did all the tough stuff. Ran the lines to the rear and everything was looking sassy. I started to bleed the brakes to purge the air out and once I started to get steady stream of fluid and brake pedal pressure the fitting at the block started leaking. It looks like the original flare was the "European bubble flare" and I put on a traditional double flare.

The double flare worked just fine for the larger of the two fittings at the block for the rear lines. But the smaller fitting will not take with the double flare. Are there dies to do a European Bubble Flare that will work with the inexpensive flaring tool? Or is it easier to buy a section of tubing that already has a factory Euro bubble flare and I can put a traditional double flare on the other end to mate with the rest of the line?

I am guessing it's easier to buy the small section with the Euro flare, but if a die is readily avail, then I'll just buy that.

Overall not a horrible process to replace hard lines. Its tedious and it took me every bit of 5 hours with a lunch break, but there is no fuckin way I would ever pay a shop $600 for this job when I've got $50 in to it (including the tool, tubing, fittings, bender, fluid, etc...).
Click to expand...



Hey I copied the workshop manual for you! Send me a PM so you can have it in the future. I tried to send the info to your e-mail on Dweb but you will not accept e-mails.
 
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