D1 Dif knob removal??

[kcabpilot]

Check out this vid...
https://youtu.be/zZ8H17B5lyE

And this one starting around the 3 min mark. Looks as if the teardop tab should be forward of the main body of the CDL.
https://youtu.be/1QFS5fO3bCc

Okay nice videos. In the first one however I can clearly see that the tab is aft of the spigot shaft and can also clearly see that rotating the dif lock mechanism clockwise engages it. So if the tab were aft you'd have to move the lever to the right to lock it.

I also see that I shouldn't have to drive to get the dif lock light to come on since it's just a mechanical link with the shaft member. So I'm going to need to take a closer look at mine and see just exactly what's going on. I guess I'll pull the cap off and maybe the switch

 

[WaltNYC]

Okay nice videos. In the first one however I can clearly see that the tab is aft of the spigot shaft and can also clearly see that rotating the dif lock mechanism clockwise engages it. So if the tab were aft you'd have to move the lever to the right to lock it.

I believe your logic is correct, but I also believe the video is faulty in this regard and I suspect they had already disassembled the CDL and were working on it for demo purposes.

The sticker near the CDL confirms the locked position is when the lever inside the cabin is pushed to the LEFT.

http://www.bputah.com/Disco Parts/Land_Range_Rover_Classic_Discovery_Transfer_Gear_Decal.jpg

 

[kcabpilot]

Yes, I agree. I'm going to do as advised, pull the works out, clean and lube and test the switch. Thanks for the videos, they gave me a much better understanding of what's going on in there.

 

[K-rover]

You more than likely have to drive it to get the light to come on or go off. Sometimes its instant, other times I have to drive 1/4 mile or so to get the light off.

 

[Buddy]

You more than likely have to drive it to get the light to come on or go off. Sometimes its instant, other times I have to drive 1/4 mile or so to get the light off.

x2, when I got my current truck the diff lock had not been engaged in a while and it took the light a bit of moving before it came on. It also took a while to turn back off. Now that it's been used a number of times it goes on almost instantly. Sometimes stuff just sticks if it's not been used in a while or ever.

 

[kcabpilot]

I'll give that a try then. It's together enough to drive. Also the D1 gaiter seal fits pretty good except needs to be trimmed and sealed with RTV where the selector cable runs through, should work out okay though.

All in all a good bit of work just to hook up the diff lock that should have been connected to begin with. Gotta wonder who the clown was that made that decision.

 

[discostew]

I'll give that a try then. It's together enough to drive. Also the D1 gaiter seal fits pretty good except needs to be trimmed and sealed with RTV where the selector cable runs through, should work out okay though.

All in all a good bit of work just to hook up the diff lock that should have been connected to begin with. Gotta wonder who the clown was that made that decision.

don't get me started

 

[kcabpilot]

Update:

It wasn't working but I went back in, actually pulled the whole thing out and found it was just an adjustment issue. The pivot point on the arm is threaded into the housing and I had to unscrew it two turns so that when the lever is full right the pointed end of the teardrop tab points straight forward and when full left it points 45 degrees to the right of forward. Got my diff lock light and used nutplates and bolts instead of rivets to remount the plate. Fixing the D1 gaiter seal around the selector cable was kind of a hassle but after half a tube of black RTV I figure it's good.

As for the conflicting pictures I still have no idea. It's not possible to put the tab on the wrong way, it's pretty Murphy proof. Lever definitely goes left for lock.

So was it worth it? I think so, cost me about $150 for everything vs about $600 for a D2 cable actuated assembly.

 

[discostew]

Update:

It wasn't working but I went back in, actually pulled the whole thing out and found it was just an adjustment issue. The pivot point on the arm is threaded into the housing and I had to unscrew it two turns so that when the lever is full right the pointed end of the teardrop tab points straight forward and when full left it points 45 degrees to the right of forward. Got my diff lock light and used nutplates and bolts instead of rivets to remount the plate. Fixing the D1 gaiter seal around the selector cable was kind of a hassle but after half a tube of black RTV I figure it's good.

As for the conflicting pictures I still have no idea. It's not possible to put the tab on the wrong way, it's pretty Murphy proof. Lever definitely goes left for lock.

So was it worth it? I think so, cost me about $150 for everything vs about $600 for a D2 cable actuated assembly.

It will be worth it for sure. Nothing like a center locking diff.