D1 motor mount replacement

Knightspirit

Knightspirit

Well-known member
Sep 22, 2019
251
84
Mount Shasta, CA
I'm sure many of you have done this. I had an incident where my airbox tube to the plenum got displaced due to torque - and was informed that this is probably due to a bad motor mount. So I purchased both mounts and am looking at the drivers side mount and wondering how best to replace it. Easy enough to remove the nut that is visible, but the other one is inaccessible, which leads me to think that i need to remove the entire bracket, which leads me to think that I need to remove the transmission lines, which leads me to think that maybe I should just leave it alone... 😄!

Even if I got the other nut off - seems I would need to raise the engine quite a bit to get the mount out of there and a new one in.

What's the best way to do this?
 
Jimmy

Jimmy

Well-known member
Apr 10, 2006
743
64
Aurora, CO
There should be write ups on here. I've done mine a few times. Yes, you will have to jack the motor up. If you're on the trail, the factory bottle jack can be used (I think I may have used it in the garage once, too). I feel like I've used my long travel floor jack and a 2x2 or 2x4 to push up at an angle (versus straight up on the oil pan). I'm thinking a stubby wrench to get to the pesky one, as I've never removed the bracket. It's been a few years for me, so stuff is fuzzy in my head.

Be sure to have nuts for the new ones; hopefully they came with. Manufacturers seem to roll a dice to decide which one to use, and you can almost count on them not matching the ones that are on there.
 
Knightspirit

Knightspirit

Well-known member
Sep 22, 2019
251
84
Mount Shasta, CA
Jimmy said:
There should be write ups on here. I've done mine a few times. Yes, you will have to jack the motor up. If you're on the trail, the factory bottle jack can be used (I think I may have used it in the garage once, too). I feel like I've used my long travel floor jack and a 2x2 or 2x4 to push up at an angle (versus straight up on the oil pan). I'm thinking a stubby wrench to get to the pesky one, as I've never removed the bracket. It's been a few years for me, so stuff is fuzzy in my head.

Be sure to have nuts for the new ones; hopefully they came with. Manufacturers seem to roll a dice to decide which one to use, and you can almost count on them not matching the ones that are on there.
Click to expand...
OK - good to know that it will come out without removing the bracket. The new mounts came with the nuts...
 
S

special ed

Well-known member
Apr 11, 2012
188
116
Elsinore
Pull the fan shroud loose, start with the broken one and if both broken do the drivers side first. rock the engine up on one side with a block of wood under the oil pan. Do one at a time. by rocking up one side of the engine there is more movement on that side before the transmission hits the tunnel and allows for more of a gap to get the mount in and out.

Have fun.
 
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terryjm1

terryjm1

Well-known member
Jan 23, 2011
1,496
381
I did both of mine but it was when I changed engines. It took some prying to get the second one lined up. I didn’t change the transmission (R380) mounts as I left the transmission in place instead of pulling them out together. My suspicion is the transmission mounts had settled a bit bringing things out of alignment. It wasn’t too bad, though.
 
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StangGT5

StangGT5

Well-known member
Feb 4, 2019
295
131
Atlanta, GA
One word of caution. Many years ago I broke the kick-down cable on the transmission (automatic, obviously) jacking up the engine too high. It could've been a freak incident or a brittle cable. Still, it was a pain to replace and took a while to get a new one.
 
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