D1 Overheating after new radiator, thermostat and fan clutch...
- Thread starter Macro1
- Start date
as people have stated, is there any air pockets? Block test the cooling system maje sure it isnt the block/heads
stocksuspension said:
have tried several methods to remove air.
Removed radiator cap and filled the expansion tank to capacity.
Did above with the vehicle's front end elevated
Ran a small clear hose from the joint in the upper radiator hose (refer to vid) to the expansion tank.
I'm confidant there is no air in the coolant.
FWI: there is flow, but its not much at all. The problem is there is no pressure in the coolant system.
Not sure about whining noise, may be spun bearing, oil pump going bad?? Have you tested the radiator cap?
I read the thread and didn't see any reference to the belt routing... Are you 100% certain the Serp. belt is routed correctly... That is a guaranteed overheat.
I'm just thinking it's possible you fixed the original cooling issue with the t-stat or the HD fan clutch or the water pump but then maybe the belt got reinstalled incorrectly?
I'm just thinking it's possible you fixed the original cooling issue with the t-stat or the HD fan clutch or the water pump but then maybe the belt got reinstalled incorrectly?
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Wining noise doesnt sound like a lower engine issue to me.
Have you done a compression test ? If not Do It..
Then pull the heads and pressurrize the block, the head gaskets are bad anyway?
Pull the heavy duty fan clutch and see if the wine is better..
power steering pump sounds like it may have issues.
Have you done a compression test ? If not Do It..
Then pull the heads and pressurrize the block, the head gaskets are bad anyway?
Pull the heavy duty fan clutch and see if the wine is better..
power steering pump sounds like it may have issues.
I dont think I would consider this truck "overheating". My D1 idles at 210 all day long, according to the OBD2. The dummy gauge stays around just below 1/2. My temps go down as I drive.
If your engine is running and you are not losing coolant, there is pressure in the cooling system and there is flow.Macro1 said:
singingcamel said:
1. I also think the majority of the noise appears to be coming from the head(s).
2. Have not done a compression test yet. Will do ASAP.
3. FYI: COMPLETE MOTOR REBUILD less than 1,500 miles. 4.6 cam kit from mark at aluminum V8, heads machined, valve job, block completely machined (i mean everything you could do to this block) new bearings, crank polished, etc. Rebuilt by a "reputable" shop recommended by Marc O.
4. Will try removing the brand new HD fan clutch. Not sure what that will do.
5. Power steering pump is brand new (less than 1k miles GM replacement). NO NOISE from the PS Pump.
sven said:
I would almost agree (as my personal Disco runs around 200-205). However, this truck will jump to 220 at idle. There is also a SIGNIFICANT COMPARABLE DIFFERENCE IN COOLANT PRESSURE. Tested with clear hose to see if there is coolant moving. There is flow, but there is not much pressure.
Driving it gets to 225 and I don't want to see how much hotter it can get.
p m said:
There is no visible loss of coolant (no leaks or puddles). I should definitely monitor the coolant level.
As I mentioned above, there is a huge difference in coolant pressure between the two. I will try to perform a pressure test, but right now to hoses don't get nearly as stiff after running the vehicle when compared to my disco.
Sounds like noise IS coming from the top end....get yourself a big screwdriver or a length of fuel hose and put an ear to one end and run it up and down each valve cover [shade tree stethoscope] to get a good guess of where that noise is coming from....put it on the oil pan same way too-isolate the noise...pulling the rocker covers to see your getting oil up there might not be a bad idea...compression test definitely...
Now who set up the motor and did the heads and install? Any "reputable" shop will certainly guarantee a motor for more than a few mo. and 1500mi....Right?
Now who set up the motor and did the heads and install? Any "reputable" shop will certainly guarantee a motor for more than a few mo. and 1500mi....Right?
I mentioned the coolant cap before, keep in mind a faulty cap (not maintaining proper pressure in the system) will account for a 20-30 degree increase in temp. Also, ensure your radiator is clean, reverse spray the the rad, and coolers with compressed air (wear safety glasses, that shit goes everywhere). Any large gaps in the fan shroud will also be a problem. Does your ac work? If not then maybe remove the condesor to get more air flow accross the rad. Good luck man, you may just have to live with a slightly higher eng temp.