D1 remote key fob eats batteries.....

[skrufy]

Hi-

Well, I've reviewed about 400 posts trying to find this problem with no luck....

My D1 remote key fob has started to eat the Cr-2016 batteries like they are potato chips- sometimes lasting about 24 hours before one, always the inboard battery, reads less than 0.0volts. I've gone thru several packs of Energizer 2016s, and then searched ebay. Found a pack of 30 2016s for about $7.00, no tax, free shipping, at my door in about 2 days..... I've tested the new batteries in their packaging, so that doesn't seem to be the issue.

I owned the D1 since new, and both my remotes are doing the same thing.

Anybody else had this problem? I actually stopped using the remotes a few years back when it started killing the CR2016s- I live in the middle of nowhere in the high mountains, so if I bothered to lock the D1, I just used the key. Then about 2 months ago, I got to experience the typical LR door lock issue of being unable to remove the key from the door lock, then having the key just spin in the tumbler, all due to that stupid weak-ass plastic ring inside the door latch assembly holding the linkage arm down to the lock mechanism. I refuse to pay LR or RN $300+ for a whole new door latch assembly- which are probably about to be NLA, and haven't found a used one on ebay- yet, to rebuild by old lock. So, I went back to the keyless remotes...

Put fresh batteries in both- they worked like champs. Was expecting to have to re-program them per the shop manual- which I have (also posted in the DW tech section for anyone else...)....

Now, am stuck with the mass consumption/appetite of my remote key fobs for fresh and tasty new CR2016s...

Ideas Troops?

Tim

 

[squirt]

My guess would be that you have something shorting the poles on the battery, either at the contacts (bent pin, etc) or at the board (accumulation of pocket lint/corrosion bridging solder joints). I'd connect a multimeter in series with the battery circuit to determine what your idle draw is. It should be essentially zero. If not, something is causing a parasitic drain. You might also try removing the PCB, connecting a pair of batteries, and looking for a hot spot on the board. If it's draining overnight, it's generating heat.

What does the other battery read when you remove it? They should be constantly trying to equalize charge, so if it's drastically different, I'd just focus on the contacts for the inboard battery.