D1 vibration help...

[p m]

Nothing particular. Mark the orientation of the parts of the driveshaft that are connected with U-joints, so the relative orientation stays the same (not 180 deg off). If you can do the job without using a sledgehammer, kudos to you. A large C-clamp and good circlip plies help (if your U-joints are factory, there will be a circlip of that kind -

)

Also, on the last couple of U-joints I came across, the zerk fitting was very long, AND the hole was drilled at an angle to the plane of the U-joint. Have I seen that, I'd have chosen a different U-joint first, or at the very least mounted the U-joint with the hole angled towards the middle of the driveshaft and not the flanges.

 

[Lsmyth26]

They have to be pressed in right?

 

[mulisha00]

Damn Logan... :smilelol:

Step one. Take a sharpie or something that will leave a clear line when you mark it and scribe scribble a line on the driveshaft and yoke so when you put it back in it's in the same spot. Take the driveshaft out and then call me and ask how to get your CDL to engage so you can drive your truck. If you take it out and the CDL will engage take it for a spin and see if the vibration is still there. If your CDL is still stuck your truck will not move with the front ds removed.

Get two u joints from NAPA going towards the airport on 58. I've got all the tools and a vise. Couple of beers and they'll be in.

 

[ERover82]

What I got is I put a 2' lift (shocks and springs) on last night, I had stock tires on and put them back on after I got done until I buy new ones.?

Shit, a 2' lift! No wonder you have vibes.

There's no need to mark the prop-shafts for identical reassembly. All the pieces are symmetrical. It only says so in the RAVE so technicians can cover their asses.

Try to get USA made joints. The greasable joints are nice but can be a PITA. They have to be positioned more carefully (zerk compressed by rotation, not pulled, and facing towards center of propshaft), zerks break off, grease can fly everywhere when driving, and you have to remember to grease them. Sealed joints have a limited lifespan but rebuilding a propshaft is pretty easy.

 

[p m]

There's no need to mark the prop-shafts for identical reassembly. All the pieces are symmetrical.

Have you ever measured the yokes for symmetry?
They are not. Not by a huge amount, but enough to invalidate that little welded-on piece of metal that is supposed to balance the driveshaft.
On the other hand, exact mating of the driveshaft flanges to t-case/pinion flanges is not necessary - the driveshaft is balanced out of the vehicle.

 

[roverzfan]

So I'm no where near as good of a wrench turner as most on this board but here's my experience with my 98 which I've had since new. About 6 years into it's life I put on a Rovertym 2 inch lift. Immediately had vibrations so I pulled the front drive shaft and took it for a spin. Nice and smooth again. Called Tom Wood's ( http://www.4xshaft.com/ ) asked them what to measure. Called em back ordered my shaft. Drove around a week with no front shaft. Next weekend put in new Tom Woods shaft. Life was good. The idea of trying to rebuild the shaft for the price a new one that could handle the change in geometry better just worked for me. I know many people say (and said on this board long ago when I had this question) that you shouldn't need the double cardan with a 2 inch lift but it worked for me.

 

[fishEH]

I've rebuilt a couple shafts with good results. It wasn't till I was at 3"+ that I needed a DC shaft. I have a front shaft with brand new ujoints for sale FWIW. PM me if interested.