What can be done to achieve substant ial suspension articulation on a d2. Can a d2 be made to articulate like a d1 that dislocates springs?
d2 articulation?
- Thread starter stocksuspension
- Start date
with a name like "stocksuspension" you shouldn't want to dislocate your springs. Upgrade your springs, add some retainers or cones if needed. But geesh, it's not a Unimog.
I'm trying to choose between a d1 and d2. Purpose of vehicle will be strickly mild off road. I like how the d1s can be fitted to articulate rather well with a relitively small tire(235/85). Can a d2 articulate like that? I don't plan on fitting HD springs since they are too stiff for offroad
Mild offroad? You probably won't ever need more articulation than the little that the D2 gives you.
stocksuspension said:
If you remove the anti-sway bars on either, they should articulate fairly well. For mild off-road, I suggest doing that, buying good tires, and recovery points/bumpers and equipment. That should do very well.
To fit a 235/85 you'll want to raise the suspension about 2" and trim a little off the fenders. I heard that D2 fenders clear tires better than D1's, but trimming the Aluminum is easy. To raise the suspension, you can use longer springs that aren't necessarily stiffer. However, you will find a somewhat limited selection of longer springs that aren't also quite a bit stiffer. Either way, if you raise the suspension with longer/stiffer springs more than about 2", you will top out the shocks. The next step would be to install longer shocks.
Springs dislocate when longer travel shocks are installed because the axle moves farther than the free length of the spring. To install the longer shocks in a way that they don't bottom and break when collapsed, the mounts need to be moved higher and/or the springs need to locate the axles lower (a lift) and longer bump stops installed. A substantial lift like +3" to 5" to accomodate longer shocks is going to involve revised radius arms, panhard rod, rear links and a-arm to correct the axle location, caster and pinion angles etc. There's not much difference between the D1 and D2. If I understand right, just a watts link and a cross member that needs removed or spacers installed. If you got one with ACE, you'd have to sort that too.
Was your purpose strictly offroad or strictly mild? D1's are shorter in the rear, lighter and less complicated. They tend to be better for a dedicated offroader. D2's are nicer inside and better on-road. I think they're better for strictly mild but plenty of people have taken them radical.
No need to trim the fenders, spring cones suck ass and are not needed for what this guy wants to do. A simple 2" kit, including shocks, from Justin would suit it best, no need to over analyze this...
I really hate to disappoint you Ben , but I ran a 3" lift with stock watt's linkage and radius arms and my springs would pop out with at full droop and never had any castor issues...and the ride improved with the heavy springs and no sway bars
buy it, drive it, break it then fix it with upgraded parts...It seems nobody spends any time with these truck stock nowadays to learn really how capable a stock truck is...
I really hate to disappoint you Ben , but I ran a 3" lift with stock watt's linkage and radius arms and my springs would pop out with at full droop and never had any castor issues...and the ride improved with the heavy springs and no sway bars
buy it, drive it, break it then fix it with upgraded parts...It seems nobody spends any time with these truck stock nowadays to learn really how capable a stock truck is...
Ben said:
My purpose would be to have a Badass offroad "sleeper". What I mean is I want take on trails efficiently without looking like the typical lifted silverado on 44s that can barely make it over a speed bump. I guess I just want a mild rig that does wild things. I have another project car that I refer to a 14 second car that has a 13 second motor that runs 11s. I guess I want to apply that to landys.
stocksuspension said:
First of don't say "landy's" it just sounds gay. If you want a "badass sleeper truck" leave it stock, put some good tires on it and learn how to drive off-road. You'll be amazed at what these trucks can do, nearly everyone I meet off-roading thinks that all rovers come stock with diff-locks front and rear. And there is a reason for that, up until recent years land Rover has been manufacturing vehicles to be very capable off-roaders. Very opposite from Jeep who writes "overland" on the side of a grand Cherokee and adds chrome rims and plastic side skirts.
Buy a d1 from a soccer mom. Change all the fluids. Spray and free up the cdl lever. Then go off road a few times. If it's not up to par then call lucky 8 off road, order a terrafirma 3" lift kit, take the sway bars out, trim the front bumper for better clearance, fit bigger mud terrains and go wheeling again. Still not up to par? I would add lockers.
A DII with a 2" ome hd spring lift can use stock shocks and fit healthy 32s and up to 33s! Add a CDL and some "Experience" and you can wheel the crap out of it!
As for articulation just get some sway bar link quick disconnects! You dont need to do much to these! I am keeping it as mild as I can without comprimising performance. I hate breaking crap and having to fix it!
As for articulation just get some sway bar link quick disconnects! You dont need to do much to these! I am keeping it as mild as I can without comprimising performance. I hate breaking crap and having to fix it!