D2 block swap question

[chris1d2se7]

Greetings,
A quick question about a D2 engine pull. Is it easier to pull engine with heads still on. Can you get to the top housing bolts without to much trouble? The heads have to come off anyway as they are going are the new block. Here is a pic: Thanks

 

[4Runner]

It’s always easier to pull a short block. That being said, if you pull the motor mounts, you can drop the motor down and the top housing bolts are super easy to pull. That’s also how I reinstall the engine. Mate the block to trans and install the lower bolts then drop the motor down and install the upper bolts, then jack the assembly up again and install the motor mount brackets and mounts. For me that is the fastest way to get it done.

 

[4Runner]

Along the same line, I like installing engines with the heads on. Much easier to do the heads on the stand.

 

[ezzzzzzz]

I remove/install the engine the same way as directed by 4runner. If you use that method then pay close attention to the O2 sensor connectors and even the crankshaft sensor connector when raising the engine to remove/install the motor mounts. Those connectors can easily get crushed in the transmission tunnel as the engine is raised to get enough clearance for those motor mounts. That is an inconvenience you won't want to deal with.

 

[jymmiejamz]

It doesn't make much difference to me. I usually just pull the plenum to access the top to bolts with a long flex head ratcheting wrench.

 

[special ed]

I Dont pull the mounts or even lower intake, heads, Exhaust manifolds... just the downpipes. As for the bolts on the top rear I use a Gear wrench with a flexible end. I like to have the engine almost completely assembled before it goes back in. The less you have to do in the car the better, easier.

I have the whole long set but here is the wrench

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GearWre...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CL-IzKKC8dgCFcqMYgodc4sFVg

https://www.jbtoolsales.com/gearwre...OjbikpMfR2sEaFHajEjm6jwPncCGXgxQaAnymEALw_wcB

 

[the deputy]

Remove the two license plate bolts...and then have the rest towed to the scrapyard.

Believe me...you'll thank me for this tidbit of information...someday.

Oh, and before it goes...take a ten pound sledge to it. It falls under the category of restitution for pain and suffering.

Pulled the motor mounts on the engine swap I did last spring, made getting at the upper bell-housing bolts much easier. Yes, it's doable without doing this, but much easier with removal. Personally, I believe the two bolts at 3 and 9 are the real basta*ds.

Good luck, with whichever route you decide.

Brian.

 

[fsflip13]

Just did this swap last weekend with the heads off one side of the block (I already had one head off). Having the heads off really don't help much of anything. A 3/8" drive 13mm with about a 3" extension, then flex knuckle, and then long extensions to your wrench will get the hard to reach ones. You will access these easier with the motor mounts removed and lower the whole engine and front of the transmission down for access. I installed new motor with upper intake off for access to wiring (not necessary if you're using a new wiring harness, but I had to plug in the fuel injectors etc).

 

[chris1d2se7]

Thanks for all the replies.

One more question for the knowledgeable- Should I take the oil pan off to get to the 4 torque converter bolts?

Thanks again
Cheers

 

[jymmiejamz]

Thanks for all the replies.

One more question for the knowledgeable- Should I take the oil pan off to get to the 4 torque converter bolts?

Thanks again
Cheers

If you are doing it without a lift, I would. It definitely makes life easier. Its been a while, but I think you need to remove the track rod to get it out.

 

[special ed]

What the F are you talking about removing the pan. Your Smoking crack if you are giving this advice jymmiejamz

Converter bolts are pulled with a 13mm from the passenger side. The oil pan has a hole that lines up directly with the bolts (2" Rubber plug on back of pan) The Bolts might fall in the back but thats ok. its all coming out anyways. Rotate the crank from the front of the engine.

If the engine is frozen just pull it forward with the torque converter attached. Gets you a good bit of room to get in there. You can get a 13mm wrench in between the flywheel and flexplate to get them free.

Be really careful what advice you listen to on this site.

 

[Mongo]

I'd listen to the guy who has been around and is actual LR tech...

 

[the deputy]

Thanks for all the replies.

One more question for the knowledgeable- Should I take the oil pan off to get to the 4 torque converter bolts?

Thanks again
Cheers

No, just go through the access hole below starter (remove rubber plug). Turn engine by crank bolt to align position for removal. Pretty simple.

Brian.

 

[salvvia]

Since we are talking about motor swaps has anyone figured out how to trick the secondary aiir signals to the ecu after taking that dumb broke sh#t off