My front driveshaft hits the cross member when fully dropped out. Are you guys spacing this down and keeping it for some frame stiffness / protection, or just taking it off?
D2 front DS hitting crossmember
- Thread starter mike97d1
- Start date
I'm sure there is a very small amount. Wouldn't be possible not to, but absolutely nothing noticeable from the drivers seat.
You can get a drop kit for the crossmember from RTE. It's not too expensive from what I remember.
David
David
Think i'll take it off and that stupid weight on the rear axle this weekend. I guess i can always put it back on if i need to. Its already torn up the boot on the shaft.
I'm reviving this one. I know most of you just pull the crossmember off, and I've had mine off for the past several months as well (with no ill effects). However, one of my buddies decided to take my cross member and c-notch it to make it clear the driveshaft where it was hitting. I put it on Saturday and it clears by about 1/2' with the axel hanging as far as it will go. Thought it was a good idea for those that want to keep it, and that I would share. Its amazing what a plasma cutter and welder can do. Pics here http://s1356.photobucket.com/user/slammed7/library/D2%20Parts/Crossmember?sort=2&page=1
Another alternative is to get some plate aluminium at least 10mm thick and make a spacer block, also with some longer mounting bolts. I had this problem on mine when a 50mm suspension lift was done.
Why would anyone remove protection from the underside of the vehicle?? Doesn't make a lot of sense to do so.
Cheers,
Jason
Why would anyone remove protection from the underside of the vehicle?? Doesn't make a lot of sense to do so.
Cheers,
Jason
The two cross-members were fitted to the D2 to help stop chassis flexing in the area where the engine & gearbox sit, where obviously there cannot be a regular cross-member fitted.
While a lot of folk take them out, you may find that increased stress cracking of the frame occurs around the front and rear main cross-members.
I haven't seen anything on the forums to suggest that this is an issue, so it may well be a safe option, but it was important enough for Land Rover to design in at the time.
I've kept both of mine, but I don't go off-road but do fairly heavy towing with the vehicle.
The fasteners that hold those on are self-cutting thread bolts, and are a real PITA to get out once they rust into place.
Peter
While a lot of folk take them out, you may find that increased stress cracking of the frame occurs around the front and rear main cross-members.
I haven't seen anything on the forums to suggest that this is an issue, so it may well be a safe option, but it was important enough for Land Rover to design in at the time.
I've kept both of mine, but I don't go off-road but do fairly heavy towing with the vehicle.
The fasteners that hold those on are self-cutting thread bolts, and are a real PITA to get out once they rust into place.
Peter
Looks like its more for damping than load bearing.
The frame isn't that different compared to the RRC and it went 25 years without that thing, though the swaybar may offer a similar effect as it is in roughly the same position.
nvh was supposed to be a huge upgrade on the d2, doesn't surprise me that this is useless for off road trucks.
edit: I know motor mounts changed a bunch on the d2, could be that the RRC/Defender/Discovery mounts provided enough lateral support between the frame rails and the D2 mounts not so much.
The frame isn't that different compared to the RRC and it went 25 years without that thing, though the swaybar may offer a similar effect as it is in roughly the same position.
nvh was supposed to be a huge upgrade on the d2, doesn't surprise me that this is useless for off road trucks.
edit: I know motor mounts changed a bunch on the d2, could be that the RRC/Defender/Discovery mounts provided enough lateral support between the frame rails and the D2 mounts not so much.
Last edited:
jymmiejamz said:
I like this advice. The last one I removed was on my 99, and I soaked the bolts with PB Blaster from both sides, and then hit them with a 1/2 drive impact gun. Only 1 of the 8 bolts snapped off, so I just left it. If I would have known they'd have pushed through that easily, I'd have tried that.
We put M8 nylocs in there afterwards, but it's awfully fiddly, there isn't much room at all, but do-able.
Peter
Peter