D2 Rear bumper

seventyfive

Well-known member
Jan 3, 2010
4,280
100
over there
disco_drum said:
just for the record....I have a 34" LTB swamper on my stock carrier (slightly modded of course) and my door does not sag at all.....Are you guys buying tires made of lead?

i have a Q78 bias on my rear door. door still opens and closes fine. but, im assuming he is going to mount a hilift and a gas can, then figure a radial tire, so those hinges will eventually fail.

hopefully that bumper is mounted to the trailer hitch mount and somewhere substantial at the quarter. if it isn't built right the quarter panel will be fucked if you slam it on a rock, even if you use the bumper as a slider and know how to drive that bumper will rotate and do more harm than good.
 
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jasonmk12

Well-known member
Jul 8, 2005
328
0
40
Portland, OR
seventyfive said:
hopefully that bumper is mounted to the trailer hitch mount and somewhere substantial at the quarter. if it isn't built right the quarter panel will be fucked if you slam it on a rock, even if you use the bumper as a slider and know how to drive that bumper will rotate and do more harm than good.

I didn't use any factory mounting areas as I wanted to make my own and am reserving the factory hitch mounts for the skid plate I am building. I inset some 3/8" angle into the trucks frame horn and boxed it in. It has four 1/2" grade 8 bolts holding it place, two on each mount.

The sides are going to be frame mounted with 2" square tube. I cut a hole into the frame and took some plate steel and welded a grade 8 nut onto the plate and welded that plate to the frame. I did the same thing on the bumper. Then the square tube arms will attach with two 1/2" grade 8 bolts on either side. I promise this thing isn't going to be twisting much even if it gets slammed pretty good.
 

bosshogt

Well-known member
Mar 11, 2010
64
0
jasonmk12 said:
I didn't use any factory mounting areas as I wanted to make my own and am reserving the factory hitch mounts for the skid plate I am building. I inset some 3/8" angle into the trucks frame horn and boxed it in. It has four 1/2" grade 8 bolts holding it place, two on each mount.

The sides are going to be frame mounted with 2" square tube. I cut a hole into the frame and took some plate steel and welded a grade 8 nut onto the plate and welded that plate to the frame. I did the same thing on the bumper. Then the square tube arms will attach with two 1/2" grade 8 bolts on either side. I promise this thing isn't going to be twisting much even if it gets slammed pretty good.

Can you post some pictures of your side mounts. I am welding my bumper right now too and would like to see your setup to the frame from the sides from underneath. My basic design is 2x4 3/16th tubular stock, with diamond plate on the top and some micro nerfs on the sides to match my sliders. All this was brought about because my bumper never showed up from Bottorff!
 

Bosbefok

Well-known member
Jul 20, 2010
420
0
Orlando, FL
I would buy that bumper any day, nice job. Maybe needs more meat at the corners.
Put a bent down exhaust tip on and forget about poking the exhaust through the bumper... just my 2c.
How is the clearance between the bumper and the bottom of the rear door? It looks tight in the pictures, but then it could just be the angles.
 

Rover_Hokie

Well-known member
Jun 7, 2008
355
0
Roanoke Valley, VA
Much better than I could do, and I think it will work well for you when your done. In regard to the tire carrier, BottorF tire carrier is just the "L" arm and I have it and had planned on having it beefed up to hold jerry cans in the holder I never got from Nate. I think I can put something together that will serve my purpose and look decent.

I do like the connection idea to the door that I have seen so the tire carrier opens with the door. I plan to try to modify mine to do that as well. If you do that, do you think you will still need a "stop" to keep the tire carrier from actually putting strain on the door hinges when opening it back in that direction?

I am no expert, but I do understand what you are saying about the exhaust cut-out not looking so great on some. Not sure of the downside to this idea, but coming back at a bit of an angle so the cut-out is a slight oval rather than just the round end of the pipe coming out at 90 degrees might look a little nicer, but maybe not. Sketch it out and see what it looks like to you and enjoy you own handy work. :) :bigok: