Hi all,
Again, my D2 is turning me crazy.
Since 2004, when I bought it, I've changed and renewed brake fluid with good quality Dot4 ABS every 2 years.
Lately my left rear wheel began getting hot.
-Took caliper out. One guide pin was badly seized. Took it out, sanded, polished, greased and reassembled. 6 miles test drive and everything ok. Thought "done". How wrong I was.
Took a 30 mile drive and arrived almost smoking, smelling awful (burnt friction material)
-So took caliper out again. Checked guide pins-they were still ok and slided in and out like oiled spaghetti.
"Must be the piston" I thought. Took the biggest mole grips to grip the piston and turned it 180 degrees left and right, inserted and extracted it a little bit to see it was not binding. Pistons were a little hard to insert, could not do it by hand, needed a tool, but was not hard, went really smooth.
Went for a short test dirve (6 miles), braking many times as in a offensive driving (in ever do that). No problems. Wheels weren't hot. Thought "done". How wrong I was.
-Last weekend I took a 30 mile drive with almost no braking (only some times as it was mostly highway). Arrived stinking and almost with smoking pads.
Did nothing about it.
Yesterday I went to fill her up. 3 mile ride. Every 100 meters (so 0.06 miles I braked hard). Return journey from fuel station, same manouevre. All discs has the ssme temperature. If the brakes were binding I guess in 3 miles they would be scalding hot.
Pedal feel never changed
So if guide pins are OK and piston seems to slide well, what else do I have to look at? Hose? Maybe. But aninternally decomposing hose should fail always and brakes would be always on in the rear left corner of the car.
The same would be with a seized piston.
So, next step is to take caliper apart and renew rubbers and piston. I have only found (even I asked for another ones) the "blue box" rubbers. Is is true that some of them are 0.5 mm bigger in diameter? I can't find genuine or OEM ones, just blue box in Spain. Because reusing the old seals is out of the question.
Any help would be appreciated. I guess the easiest thing is go for complete new caliper, hose and carrier, but don't wanna follow the "easy" route.
Best regards
Again, my D2 is turning me crazy.
Since 2004, when I bought it, I've changed and renewed brake fluid with good quality Dot4 ABS every 2 years.
Lately my left rear wheel began getting hot.
-Took caliper out. One guide pin was badly seized. Took it out, sanded, polished, greased and reassembled. 6 miles test drive and everything ok. Thought "done". How wrong I was.
Took a 30 mile drive and arrived almost smoking, smelling awful (burnt friction material)
-So took caliper out again. Checked guide pins-they were still ok and slided in and out like oiled spaghetti.
"Must be the piston" I thought. Took the biggest mole grips to grip the piston and turned it 180 degrees left and right, inserted and extracted it a little bit to see it was not binding. Pistons were a little hard to insert, could not do it by hand, needed a tool, but was not hard, went really smooth.
Went for a short test dirve (6 miles), braking many times as in a offensive driving (in ever do that). No problems. Wheels weren't hot. Thought "done". How wrong I was.
-Last weekend I took a 30 mile drive with almost no braking (only some times as it was mostly highway). Arrived stinking and almost with smoking pads.
Did nothing about it.
Yesterday I went to fill her up. 3 mile ride. Every 100 meters (so 0.06 miles I braked hard). Return journey from fuel station, same manouevre. All discs has the ssme temperature. If the brakes were binding I guess in 3 miles they would be scalding hot.
Pedal feel never changed
So if guide pins are OK and piston seems to slide well, what else do I have to look at? Hose? Maybe. But aninternally decomposing hose should fail always and brakes would be always on in the rear left corner of the car.
The same would be with a seized piston.
So, next step is to take caliper apart and renew rubbers and piston. I have only found (even I asked for another ones) the "blue box" rubbers. Is is true that some of them are 0.5 mm bigger in diameter? I can't find genuine or OEM ones, just blue box in Spain. Because reusing the old seals is out of the question.
Any help would be appreciated. I guess the easiest thing is go for complete new caliper, hose and carrier, but don't wanna follow the "easy" route.
Best regards