D2 starter and click

[fowlerjk04]

After my D2 sat for a while on the trickle charger, it wouldn't start. Just the "click" of a relay. So I followed the forum advice and replaced the starter. When tested on Sunday after I replaced it, it did crank and ran for a while.

Now here I am on Friday and the thing is showing the same signs. Click and that's it. I replaced the battery. Same problem.

Here's where it gets interesting:
- When I pulled the trickle charger off Sunday, I noticed it had gone completely dark. Not even a flashing red light to indicate undercharge.
- I managed to get the truck started on Sunday after changing the starter by use of a jumper battery pack.
- Today even after the battery change, I noticed the trickle charger flashes red a couple of times then goes dark. It's as though the battery isn't accepting a charge or is completely dead, which is weird having just bought it.
- The jumper battery pack will push a charge to this new battery whereas it didn't with the old one.
- All interior electronics work just fine with the new battery, with or without the jumper battery pack.

So a new starter and new battery lead to the same problem with an old starter and old battery. What in the world could be the culprit?

 

[fowlerjk04]

Update....after enough time on the jumper battery, it started, but something in the area of the starter motor or exhaust sensor started smoking. Turned it off and reattached the heat shield. Won't start now. Took battery back to store for testing, it checked out OK. Put it back in the truck, same issue. I wonder now if it's a shorting problem. Intermittent start + smoke seems to point that way. Will have to jack it up tomorrow afternoon and see what I messed up underneath.

Any suggestions on what to do or look for?

 

[kris812]

BIG power wires go to starter, possible shorted somewhere..

But Those POS chargers are JUST that..

Check wires at battery, main fuse box, starter. And look for Grounds not connected..

And lastly once its running make sure the Alternator is charging.. Could have been the issue all along and changing starters wires are touching now.

Not sure why you would put the shield back over your smoked wires? Can't see what's wrong now..

 

[fowlerjk04]

BIG power wires go to starter, possible shorted somewhere..

But Those POS chargers are JUST that..

Check wires at battery, main fuse box, starter. And look for Grounds not connected..

And lastly once its running make sure the Alternator is charging.. Could have been the issue all along and changing starters wires are touching now.

Not sure why you would put the shield back over your smoked wires? Can't see what's wrong now..

Just did that in case it was a short caused by the shield itself. I never actually took it off, just bent it out of the way. I am going to get it up on jack stands tomorrow and check out all of these things when I have my daughter to help me.

 

[fowlerjk04]

Checked wires, saw nothing disconnected. Replaced starter just to be safe. Same problem.

Bridged negative connection from battery to engine block. Same problem.

I'm ready to load this truck with fireworks and push it off a cliff.

EDIT: I just realized that the damaged front right panel (wheel well to bonnet) might have something to do with this. Unlikely, but there is a side light connection there and I could have a damaged wire shorting to the body somehow. Will tackle that tomorrow.

 

[kris812]

You are unlocking with the FOB to disable the immobilizer correct?

Man I'd get a volt meter and check if power is at the starter, and if the trigger wire/crank is also getting power while cranking.

Tossing parts at something is never fun or efficent.. Check battery voltage and check again with the headlights on, could just be a bad battery all along, and youll see a big drop in voltage with head lights on..

 

[fowlerjk04]

You are unlocking with the FOB to disable the immobilizer correct?

Man I'd get a volt meter and check if power is at the starter, and if the trigger wire/crank is also getting power while cranking.

Tossing parts at something is never fun or efficent.. Check battery voltage and check again with the headlights on, could just be a bad battery all along, and youll see a big drop in voltage with head lights on..

Thank you, I will do that. I had the second battery checked twice and it reads sufficiently. Still have to get after the potential short in the body panel.

 

[JohnnoK]

Also check the battery ground to the engine is good, clean and tight.

 

[fowlerjk04]

I kept getting undervolt trouble codes and the trickle charger would only light up on standby, indicating that the battery is too drained to even throw a trickle charge at it. Bought a jump-starter pack and let that sit for a minute. Last night it didn't work. This morning, after confirmed trickle-charging overnight and then 5-10 minutes with the jump starter pack on it, the engine fired right up. Smoke again, but it seemed to be coming from the leaky valve covers that I have to replace anyway when I can drive the thing into my garage and leave it a while. This is just flat-out weird. No rhyme or reason to it.

 

[fowlerjk04]

It appears that I have a battery drain. I replaced the battery yet again, and it did not crank once installed, but I hooked up a jump pack to it and just like with my other batteries, it will start after about five minutes. After letting it run for a little while, I can turn it off and crank it right back up.
However, it appears I have a drain or short somewhere. If I leave the vehicle off for more than half an hour, I get the same problem with the click.

 

[kris812]

I use this... 100% sure thing you'll have a battery when camping overnight

 

[fowlerjk04]

Today I replaced my battery terminals after having to jump this thing so many times (no pattern) that they just got destroyed. Now my radio whines and matches RPM. This is usually a grounding problem. Would these two issues be related?

Update/edit: switched off engine to get gas, and total electrical failure. Had to connect to another vehicle and wait a while to jump. This behavior makes me think it's the alternator. Ordered one and will update after replacing.

 

[kris812]

DUDE... BUY A VOLT METER!

Could easily check if the alternator is working if you get 14v

And the headlight test I mentioned is a simple way to check the battery condition without a meter.

Hell you can check if the alternator is working with the headlights; do they get brighter once running? Alt works then..

Then you can Ohm from engine to frame to check ground..

CHEAP 5$ Harbor freight volt meter and some testing would save you LOTS of headaches.

 

[fowlerjk04]

Replaced the alternator. Got 14v on my meter. Still completely dead after jumping (no clock, no click, no nothing). Will start slowly when I connect a jump pack but the second I turn the engine off, DEAD.

Battery conditioner says the battery is full.

edit…tinkered again this morning and realized the terminal connectors I bought were painted pretty much all over, which meant that the crimp connector for the negative cable wasn’t making a good connection. Got some paint off and redid the connection. Starts up like a charm now. Wow.

At this point, I don’t know what the original problem was. I have replaced battery, alternator, and battery terminal connectors.