DI discouraged
- Thread starter W2TF
- Start date
completely agreed. You dont have to look further than PLASTIC diff plugs.
D2 axle gear is flat out better than any other “Rover” type with swivel balls. .
The D2 has its shortcomings, especially the questionable engines later on. The most important bit about those trucks is that the exteiror and and interior fit and finish are a big step up from the BL parts bin.
Also helps that they’re dime a dozen, and D1s aren’t anymore. Block not cracked? Stop complaining.
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So you like those little wheel bearings better than a semi floating system? Why? You don't like strength? You prefer cheap to build over rock solid?
The DII has semi-floating axles.
It's not necessarily cheaping out, either, and the axles aren't lacking in "strength". They're enduring more forces than a full floating system would. They're tight and easy to service, and tow/haul just fine on any terrain. The part of that assembly that deserves to be in contention is the hub, which is unreasonable to service.
That's a bit like a sealed U joint, though... One can look at it both ways. I've certainly never seen anyone wring one off at the wheel, and haven't heard of anyone wringing one off at the wheel without doing something incredibly stupid. I suppose hub bearings could last a little longer, but that's part of a using semi-floating axle.
Floating an axle keeps the bearings and seals happier, and makes it easier to remove, and on paper could add stability. The axles themselves are strong enough either way, and in reality the DII is tighter than a D1 on the road. I don't much like the front ball joint scenario, but it's no worse than swivel balls aside from limited service frequency.
I think you can only replace them three times.
Cheers,
Kennith
I don't think I would consider a D2 a semi floating axle. I think that the way the axle slides out of the truck( Disco1)without effecting the weight of the truck being supported by the wheel bearing. The axles only job is to turn the assembly.
When you think front axle of a disco2, think front wheel drive Buick from about 1992.
When you think front axle of a disco2, think front wheel drive Buick from about 1992.
If you have any concerns over the cooling system, walk away. Get one without mechanical issues. Immediately install a 180 degree thermostat, change coolant, all fluids and filters and replace the front driveshaft with one that has zirc fittings on the shaft. Drive it and repair other stuff as necessary. Good oil and coolant is critical in these trucks.
You're thinking of fully floating axles.
This is easier than a description:
Fronts are a different bird, as they all have to be leaning more toward a full floating setup to work.
I don't know where that picture came from, but it's mostly illustrative.
Cheers,
Kennith
The D2 frame is definitely lesser as well.
Living in salt country, I haven't seen a D2 without some kinda significant rot.
D1 frames are usually just full of surface rust.
The D2 has a problem with rear frame rot. The D1 body turns to dust just like a RRC. Pick your poison.
You asked, and I responded. You got your response. Nothing creepy about that. I could have kept it public, but I do have some manners. Good on you for getting back to moving a conversation forward after clarification again, though.
Better is relative. The DII experiences no issues in relation to that axle technology. It's there to prevent excessive bearing wear; not to make an axle indestructible. The idea of a deflecting axle snapping off is up on cloud 9 somewhere. If you want to snap one, you'll have to try just as hard as you do on a D1.
If I can jump a DII multiple times and not break an axle or bearing, other people can enjoy trails and road use without issue.
In exchange for the irrelevant "inferiority", normal preventative maintenance is easier, it's less likely to suffer water ingress, and despite added expense, swapping out bearings is easier, as well. It all comes off in one piece. If you're not driving like an idiot, you'll never know the difference. The question is just how likely you are to have to pull an axle on the trail; because in reality, that's all you're improving with a full floating axle.
No discovery can out-tow or out-haul it's axle bearings, despite the fact that they're rated pretty highly in hauling in relation to even a modern pickup truck. You can drop well over half a ton in the cargo bay and still remain within specification. The only reason it's rated so low on towing related to a pickup is the wheelbase, the overall vehicle weight, and brakes; to an extent.
As for rust, I haven't experienced any notable issues; just a surface dusting every now and again, and I don't see a lot that have beyond those in climates where it's expected in general.
Cheers,
Kennith
Have you ever taken one of those bearings out Kennith? It's not easy by any stretch of the imagination. Your probably going to hit it with a big hammer for about an hour. See...puzzle palace shit. On paper it just slides right in and right out. NOT
I explicitly stated that the bearings themselves are not reasonably serviceable. Removing them, however, is quite easy; you just end up replacing the assembly.
In the end, it doesn't actually make much of a difference in service intervals, but I did tend to wear them sooner than other owners; and they'd last longer in that use if they were fully floating, but not by much. It's just a more expensive replacement, in the end.
The fronts in my DII need replacing right now, but I'll probably do them all early next year.
Cheers,
Kennith
Yes, I have. Of all the things that I consider a headache on that vehicle, that isn't one of them. It's not as easy as I suppose it could be, but it's not rocket science, and it's not something that will keep you busy all day unless you've let everything in there rust to hell and back and don't know how to use the proper tools.
I've had much more trouble removing pitman arms than fucking with hubs. Use the tools that are available for just this sort of project to make it happen smoothly, and apply some man meat to the process.
Cheers,
Kennith
I prefer not building at all lol, I have an RRC so I have to deal with the rover front end anyways. The point is that the D2 is cheaper to build and has better fit and finish. Brake job on those is also a walk in the park...
It's just a different take on the same formula, in the end.
Smoother, better handling, more towing and payload, and a different blend of comfort and practicality. As you noted, the interiors are of higher quality, and have held up great over the years. Off-pavement it's largely a wash, unless your traction control is working properly, which sets it above and beyond in stock form and when lightly modified. In that case the only downside in the dirt is the departure angle, which was a packaging decision I'm happy to live with.
The DII is a more practical vehicle. The D1 is going to be better on technical trails. That's just the way it is.
Cheers,
Kennith
Some of the '03 engines were replaced under warrenty, usually after the oil pump exploded at some point before 50K. If you got one of those with a replacement engine your probably O.K. for awhile, as long as the cooant system wasn't ignored.
So you paid 14 for an '03? 14 what? K?
Dude.
We're hear to talk you out of falling down rabbit holes and going thru the looking glass.
But I get it, if you've got Rover fever, and your eye on that peach of a Disco, suggestions and advice from strangers is reduced to background noise.
Well, you're pretty much married to it now.