Died while at intersection... Please Help!

[n8thgr8]

Here's what happened to my '98 D1 LSE GEMS...
walked out of the house I got in the truck, started it, drove roughly 1/2 mile, then while waiting to turn left at an intersection, dead!
A couple of dudes that were driving by stopped to help me push the beast off the road into a gas station parking lot.
Still wouldn't turn over (although cranking just fine)
Did a little grocery shopping, came back 15 minutes lager, fired right up! Drove it about 100 feet, then it died again. (backfireing)
Checked the plug wires, to be sure they were secure, checked for abnormal leaks, all was well.
Started it again maybe 5 minutes later, fired right up, drove most of the way home, then it died again.
It's parked on the side of the road near my place, and easily within walking distance.

The Search...
SO I searched here on the boards, and I've come up with at least two places to start my investigation...
The Crank Position Sensor,
and the Battery.
Any other ideas?
Could this at all be a fuel issue? (bad filter?)(it's got a full tank)

The Plan...
Walk outside in a few minutes and try to drive it home. Then fix it.

Other symptoms?...
I have noticed that the past few weeks, in the morning, when the truck has been sitting, I turn the key, and it ALMOST starts the first time. Then I turn it a second, and it starts just fine. (I'm not sure if the two are related, but they could be)

Any ideas? I could really use a few other brains working on this. So any input is appreciated! Thanks in advance.
Happy holidays boys!

 

[n8thgr8]

Update... After posting, went back out, got in, turned key, started up! Then it died just as I turned the wheels to drive the 200 meters home.
SO I started it again, and it behaved just like on those mornings. Crank, rumble rumble, die. Then I tried again, same thing.
4th or 5th try, it started and seemed to be running fine, so I drove home, was able to back up and maneuver into a parking spot, no dying.
I have a battery charger on it for the night, and I have tomorrow to look more closely.

 

[Quentin]

Fuel and spark......fuel and spark
Check to see that you have fuel at the rail, but my money would be on the dizzy cap and rotor. Check them for signs of age and cracking. A bit of emory paper on the cap terminals might prolong it's life (assuming it's the cap), but always a good piece of kit to renew.
As for the battery/alternator...... you would have a dicharge battery light comming on, but check the voltage on the alternator anyway. Should have between 13 and 14,4v on the regulator when charging. Battery should measure 12,4v with your truck switched off. Anything below 11,8v is destined for the recycle dump.
As for the Crank Position Sensor...... check the basics first, then start looking further afield.
Keep us updated on your findings.

 

[singingcamel]

When you get a chance check pressure at the fuel rail ? 35 lbs or there about is norm.
Or get 2 9/16 wrenches and brake the line in back of the engine , grab a jar and have some one turn it over and observe the preesure from the pump, it ought to spray hard, ( not the safest way but you can determine a fuel delievery problem )

 

[D Chapman]

my money would be on the dizzy cap and rotor. .

Go ahead and give me your money then, because it's not the dizzy cap and rotor.

 

[D Chapman]

Problem could be that something is wet??

Everything else sounds like a fuel issue.

 

[Wander]

It sounds like it was stalling at pretty regular intervals which could very well be a clogged fuel filter. That is a pretty easy and cheap fix so start there. If that doesn't solve it then check your coil packs to see if you need to replace.

 

[Quentin]

Go ahead and give me your money then, because it's not the dizzy cap and rotor.

I'm poor and the Rand / Dollar exchange rate sucks :rofl:
Let's see what the man finds, but as I orgionally said "fuel and spark". I wouldn't be surprised if it is a fuel issue, but I've fixed a few cars that have had similar symptoms of just dieing and on cranking sound they are running on 2 cylinders......only to die a few seconds later. Pop the dizzy cap to find the terminals shot and signs of arcing. New cap and rotor sorted the issue out

 

[RVRSRVC]

Chappy's suggesting that a 98 GEMS engine mosy likely doesn't have a distributor. How much money were we talking about here?
The fuel rail has a schraeder valve on the passenger's side of the rail for hooking up a pressure tester. You could use the tip of the cap over the valve to depress the valve and see if there is any pressure- but PLEASE keep in mind that if there is pressure, the fuel will come out at about 40 psi! No smoking, eh?
While your at it, push down on the inertia switch to ensure that it is seated.

 

[Quentin]

Chappy's suggesting that a 98 GEMS engine mosy likely doesn't have a distributor. How much money were we talking about here?
The fuel rail has a schraeder valve on the passenger's side of the rail for hooking up a pressure tester. You could use the tip of the cap over the valve to depress the valve and see if there is any pressure- but PLEASE keep in mind that if there is pressure, the fuel will come out at about 40 psi! No smoking, eh?
While your at it, push down on the inertia switch to ensure that it is seated.

Ahhh... we don't get those down here is Suth Africa

 

[Wander]

Yep, if it's a 4.0 GEMS under the bonnet it has coil packs in place of the dizzy. You'll have to excuse us 3.9 owners, we just don't get why you would not have one of these engines.

 

[n8thgr8]

Ha ha, yah, no distributor on this one. It's a 4.0. Sorry, I should have included that. (points go to Dan)
Definitely not the battery. Charged, and cranks like crazy.
All of the plug wires are in place and secure, so I will have to check the coil pack.
I DO have a replacement fuel filter that I have been meaning to put in. That one could be easy.
If that doesn't work I'll also check the pressure at the rails. Because I don't' have a pressure gauge, I'll just have to do it the "unsafe" way.
Good thing I'm on vacation and don't need a daily driver at the moment!
Thanks again boys, I'll keep you posted!

 

[D Chapman]

Go ahead and buy a fuel pump today. They'll be closed tomorrow. If you don't end up needing it you can just take it back.

But you'll probably need it.

 

[capri_auto]

I'd put my money on the fuel pump, had 2 go on me in the same month in 2 different trucks. you can buy just the pump and swap it out very easily. do a search for the pump part number all the major part stores carry it. All you gotta do is lift up the carpet in the cargo area, remove the access panel, disconnect the fuel lines, unscrew the fuel pump, lift it out and change the motor out with the new one.

When you turn the key to on, do you hear a hum comming from the rear of the truck?

 

[n8thgr8]

Alright, Dan and everybody who is thinking "fuel pump", I think you may be right,
I Sprayed a little starting fluid in the air intake, and it started up and died.
SO I know there isn't any fuel but plenty of spark.
While checking fuel pressure, I don't have a gauge, so I checked the valve in the fuel rail, (the one that looks like the Schrader valve) and only a drop came out. Am I doing this right? (fuel pressure gauge will be my next tool purchase!)
My biggest worry is getting a fuel pump here on island. I read the thread about replacing with an equivalent part for a 96 chevy impala, but I'm pretty sure I have the advanced evap system. So I'm not sure what to do. Is there another equivalent part I can use?
If I need one, I may just have to order one and borrow a loaner car until it gets here.
My alternatives to ordering are Napa, (IF they have it, which they usually don't) or the BMW dealership which USED to be a rover dealership but only after 2000, so they don't typically stock parts for a D1.

 

[Wander]

If the fuel filter is clogged it will cause the lack of pressure/flow as well. You might need a pump but I'd start with a filter first as it's easier and cheaper. If the problem continues then you can move on to the pump. One thing you can check now is the connections at the pump-just open up the access hatch in the back (under the carpet and mat) and see how things look.

 

[Timmy!!!!!!!]

Fuel Pump is my bet since this is exactly what happened to me last week (two days before I go home). The 96 impala pump will fit fine with the AEL trucks.

 

[n8thgr8]

Thanks guys! More investigating!
I'll replace the fuel filter, I have one, it's easy enough, i should get that done anyway.
I'll let you guys know what I find!
Merry Christmas!

 

[D Chapman]

My biggest worry is getting a fuel pump here on island. I read the thread about replacing with an equivalent part for a 96 chevy impala, but I'm pretty sure I have the advanced evap system. So I'm not sure what to do. Is there another equivalent part I can use?

The only difference between an evap and non-evap is the electrical connection on the pump itself. One has a little wiring harness for the power and ground, and one just has little spades on the wires. You can use spade connectors on either pump you buy, even if your pump has the little harness connector; just cut the connector off and install two spades.

 

[fishEH]

I'll replace the fuel filter, I have one, it's easy enough, Merry Christmas!

Famous last words, LOL. Hopefully your fittings aren't too far corroded. Otherwise you'll be looking to splice in new fittings.