Driving home a couple days ago I started getting a instrument cluster warning light and tone which I eventually determined to be the Differential Neutral Warning. I had no problem driving the rest of the way home. The light flashed continuously and the tone dinged continuously. Both stopped when I turned off the vehicle. Both started right up as soon as I turned the vehicle back on. When I turned off the vehicle I could not remove the key. I understand this also to be normal. I know to look for the sensor on the diff and attempt to adjust it. My first request of the Forum is any advice vis a vis finding the sensor and making adjustments to it. However, first, I need to know if what happened this morning was also normal. I attempted to re-start the vehicle and got nothing, as if the battery was completely dead. I still need to check the battery. I also found that I could now remove the key. Is the dead car part of the Differential Neutral Warning process or do I have two different problems? Any help the Forum can give me would be appreciated.
Differential Neutral Warning Issue
- Thread starter Bundubasher
- Start date
Sorry for the brain fart. When I said "differential", I should have said "transfer case". Sorry. I hope you will still try to help me.
Seeing ptschramm's complaint, please note that the vehicle I am asking for help with is my 2003 DII HSE 7. Hope this helps.
check out the battery first, then the battery cables. make sure all are in good working order. if not, replace the defective parts.
then restart the Rover and see if any warning lights come back on.
low voltage due to a bad battery and/or battery connection can wreck havoc on these trucks and set off miscellaneous and various warning lights.
then restart the Rover and see if any warning lights come back on.
low voltage due to a bad battery and/or battery connection can wreck havoc on these trucks and set off miscellaneous and various warning lights.
Are you certain the differential is fully engaged in (assuming) high range? Before you start going the electrical route at least run it through a few cycles of shifting to low range. I found reversing a few feet would address any issue getting it to fully settle into high/low range
+1 to this. Before I serviced my transfer case shift linkage I'd often have to resort to the old "back and forth" trick to fully engage it. Try also letting the vehicle settle a bit in neutral (small lever) before continuing to shift to whatever range (high/low) you want to be in. This happens a lot less since I serviced the linkage, but every now and then it needs coaxing.
Also, it's not often you see a Shona word in someone's screen name around here. Do you have a connection?
I had this issue on my disco 15 years ago because the sensor was bad. I made. Write up on here. Let
Me see if I can find it.
Me see if I can find it.
I assume you are referring to my nickname of Bundubasher. Several years ago I was driving my '81 Series III in support of a horseback safari in Bushmanland, Namibia. One of the horses took off and I spent three days trying to chase him down. One of the Namibian riders nicknamed me "Bundubasher". I liked it, so it stuck.
As to the current problem, shifting ranges back and forth a couple of times turned of the flashing light and beeping. I hope it stays fixed. Having said that, I found a bag of parts in the glove box; one of which looks like the switch I'll need if it doesn't stay fixed, purchased by some previous owner. I've about decided that the drained battery is unrelated. Now I need to se if I can find the hole, or holes, where all those electrons are leaking out.
Tested battery voltage. Dead as a door nail. Put in the fresh battery I had on hand. Vehicle fired right up and the only warning light to come on was the "Transfer Case Neutral" warning. I moved the transfer case lever a couple of times back and forth and the flashing light/pinging went away. I'm pretty sure something else is draining the battery. Shop confirmed the alternator was doing its job. Connections at the battery were clean and tight. I've gotten no further yet looking for the leak of electrons. FWIW, the battery which preceded either of the two currently on hand WAS BAD. Advance Auto replaced it at no charge.
Check this.
How to remove console to access/repair CDL on a Disco 1
Okay, here is the deal. My diff light wouldn't come on and I eventually found that the center differential lock was not locking. Strangely my CDL lever worked flawlessly and was smooth like the skin of a baby ass (donkey) If your CDL is seized the following information might be useful to you...
discoweb.org