DII Engine Removal
- Thread starter toothdoc
- Start date
gotta love an engine that makes you plug your ears on a dyno run. A friend of mine just puts turbo'd LS() engines in everything he buys. Chevy 1500, his drift car, caged 240, etc. I'd do it if it'd pass inspection.
Inspection? Who needs a fucking inspection! Gotta love SC! No inspections and the local cops let it slide when an ultra 4 car does 70 in a 45 because they think it's cool as hell and want to look at it. Say what you want Zack, rednecks are more fun, especiallywhen they have money!
fwiw Erik's ultra 4 car is tagged and street legal in Maryland. Street rod tags. Not all of us that like very fast off-road cars are rednecks! I prefer 'outdoor adventurer'
Anyways back on topic. Cones are way better than retained springs. Oops wrong thread. Synthetic winch line is way better than steel. Shit wrong again......what was the original question?
Well, I didn't have the intention of starting an "oil", or "tire", etc. thread and didn't realize there were just as many hot topics with a rebuild!
I got the heads pulled last night and found the head bolts around #1 and #8(the internal ones) were more than hand tight, but I didn't need a breaker bar to get them loose. The rest I needed a breaker bar and a cheater pipe to break them loose. I had a fair amount of oil run into the water jacket by the #8 cylinder and assume I can just rotate the block and flush this out? The block looks okay and all cylinders have the crosshatch still evident in the liners. I think I am going to have the heads decked and button things back up unless someone can give me a good reason to further disassemble this thing. It only had 77K miles on it and I don't have any steam cleaned pistons. Just the usual buildup of carbon deposits with the worst ones being the #1 and #8 cylinders.
Planning on using WD40 and a scothbrite pad to knock off the deposits and remove the head gasket film left in a few places. If all goes well and I can get the heads back, I hope to have it reinstalled by next weekend.
THanks for all the info thus far, and for the entertainment as well! Hahaha.
Now back to the banter...
I got the heads pulled last night and found the head bolts around #1 and #8(the internal ones) were more than hand tight, but I didn't need a breaker bar to get them loose. The rest I needed a breaker bar and a cheater pipe to break them loose. I had a fair amount of oil run into the water jacket by the #8 cylinder and assume I can just rotate the block and flush this out? The block looks okay and all cylinders have the crosshatch still evident in the liners. I think I am going to have the heads decked and button things back up unless someone can give me a good reason to further disassemble this thing. It only had 77K miles on it and I don't have any steam cleaned pistons. Just the usual buildup of carbon deposits with the worst ones being the #1 and #8 cylinders.
Planning on using WD40 and a scothbrite pad to knock off the deposits and remove the head gasket film left in a few places. If all goes well and I can get the heads back, I hope to have it reinstalled by next weekend.
THanks for all the info thus far, and for the entertainment as well! Hahaha.
Now back to the banter...
which is why i prefer studs. reliability.
edit: studs and proper gaskets, i prefer cometic multilayer gaskets. proper clamping torque helps but does not eliminate gasket failure due to using lower quality gaskets.
at the end of the day use what ever parts you want. just ask yourself "do i really want to do this job again during my ownership because i used lesser quality parts".
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Heads are off to machine shop tomorrow for new valve stem seals, pressure test, and decking. Tonight I pulled the water pump and timing cover. When I was degreasing and cleaning up the timing cover and sump, I noticed this small collar, bushing, whatever you want to call it sitting next to my parts on the driveway. I have been very meticulous during disassembly to study what goes where and label parts for replacement, but I have no idea where this came from.
New game...guess that part!
New game...guess that part!
Attachments
Winner!! Wow Mike, pretty impressive my friend. I had tossed the valve cover gaskets but I guess this piece stuck to the valve cover itself, and when I cleaned it up it must have rolled off the table onto the driveway.
This is my first tear down and rebuild and I am very thankful there are folks who don't mind sharing their expertise with the less experienced.
This is my first tear down and rebuild and I am very thankful there are folks who don't mind sharing their expertise with the less experienced.
Definitely. I've found a bunch of those loose in motors. They never seem to cause any issues surprisingly.
I have a front main seal leak on my 99 DII, Should I go ahead replace the oil pan gasket as well?
There's not really any overlap in doing those two jobs, so I would just replace the front crank seal.