ok give me some ideas. I had a Jeep (XJ) a long time ago! So with the snorkel how tight are the doors? How can they be made better?
DII - how to make water tight
- Thread starter scottagnew101
- Start date
scottagnew101 said:
Fill in the little crack at the seal bottom with silicone. That's a good place to start.
Cheers,
Kennith
this should give you a little inspiration (jeremy's truck)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTVPPTV-bQM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTVPPTV-bQM
Scott, I would think a new set of door seals all around would be just about the best thing you could do without siliconing your doors shut.
Also, maybe some silicone around the grommets in your firewall...I know access is going to be a bit of a pain for you so maybe skip the grommets
Also, maybe some silicone around the grommets in your firewall...I know access is going to be a bit of a pain for you so maybe skip the grommets
KyleT said:
False! The transmission will fail if you cease forward motion in water higher than your dipstick hole/breather hose and you get water in it. I have been in water deep enough to ruin an engine and my trans is fine.
Extend your breathers!! I have forded water level with my hood in the pine barrens even before I had a snorkel and didn't have issues.. And if I was going to get water in my trans it would have been when my truck took the epic dive of doom
my breathers were routed thru my snorkel, and one broke (my best guess) when the dealership replaced the transmission, after the front driveshaft let go. It's also it's really hard to access them without dropping the transmission. I've been over the hood in water, several times, never got water in the cab, but ate 3 alternators and the transmission. When it happened, I flushed and refilled it, twice, didn't matter, once water gets in, it will self-destruct. The other thing you have to worry about is the trans ecu, it's under the driver seat...I had to replace mine, not from flooding truck, but dragging snow and road salt in from getting in and out of the truck...
i keep a spare egs, ecu, and bcu in the truck. if i had to bet, breathers are probably the most overlooked maintenance item along with the two rubber inspection plugs at the bell housing. they keep a lot of mud and gravel out of the flywheel.
aside from the typical water intrusion areas there are 2 other areas to keep in mind on a D2.
1) take a look, in the engine compartment, at the passenger side where the firewall meets the front section (fender support). don't know why but almost every D2, in the mid-atlantic and north, seems to rot more so than the driver side. look at the wheel well (remove the plastic liner if you still have them) at the front passenger wheel. tap the sheet metal (towards the firewall) lightly with a mallet or screwdriver handle. where the firewall meets the front fender sub-structure we see a lot of surface corrosion...directly on the other side of that sheet metal is the ecu and bcu not to mention a huge wiring harness. inside that wiring harness is several junction splices and for some reason they all face up to collect all the water that runs down the harness.
2) have a friend help you remove the bonnet, 4 bolts hold it on, you can most likely remove it yourself. remove the wiper arms and plastic cowling. remove all the debris, leaves, mud, etc and wax the living shit out of the 'scuppers'. if you notice the 'scupper' is almost flat or like on one of my D2's they run downhill to the fresh air intake for the heater/evap box. we see a lot of water intrusion up here from that area as well.
you'd be amazed how much water gets into the truck if you don't have any carpet or insulation in it. i can watch water trickle down the foot wells (both passenger and driver side) and water drops from the windshield up top during heavy rains.
another thing a lot of people don't think about is how much mud and rot is under the carpets, if your the type that absolutely has to do water crossings and mud holes keep in mind all that carpet and mud holds moisture under the carpet.
aside from the typical water intrusion areas there are 2 other areas to keep in mind on a D2.
1) take a look, in the engine compartment, at the passenger side where the firewall meets the front section (fender support). don't know why but almost every D2, in the mid-atlantic and north, seems to rot more so than the driver side. look at the wheel well (remove the plastic liner if you still have them) at the front passenger wheel. tap the sheet metal (towards the firewall) lightly with a mallet or screwdriver handle. where the firewall meets the front fender sub-structure we see a lot of surface corrosion...directly on the other side of that sheet metal is the ecu and bcu not to mention a huge wiring harness. inside that wiring harness is several junction splices and for some reason they all face up to collect all the water that runs down the harness.
2) have a friend help you remove the bonnet, 4 bolts hold it on, you can most likely remove it yourself. remove the wiper arms and plastic cowling. remove all the debris, leaves, mud, etc and wax the living shit out of the 'scuppers'. if you notice the 'scupper' is almost flat or like on one of my D2's they run downhill to the fresh air intake for the heater/evap box. we see a lot of water intrusion up here from that area as well.
you'd be amazed how much water gets into the truck if you don't have any carpet or insulation in it. i can watch water trickle down the foot wells (both passenger and driver side) and water drops from the windshield up top during heavy rains.
another thing a lot of people don't think about is how much mud and rot is under the carpets, if your the type that absolutely has to do water crossings and mud holes keep in mind all that carpet and mud holds moisture under the carpet.