Disco-II.... cranks but no start... Any help would be great!

[1995-Disco-I]

Hey guys, having a hell of a month already... Freelander timing belt broke last week,.... NOW my wifes D-II wont start..... It was running great when she went to work.... she came out 8hrs later and this!......I went over to take a look,.... It cranks over fine, but does not hit at all.... does not even try to start!...... I listened for the fuel pump and could NOT hear it, as there was a lot of traffic.... I took starting fluid and sprayed into the throttle body and quickly connected the hose back.... Cranks and hits like twice... very lightly,.... sprayed more and did again.... same.... sprayed like 2-3 seconds worth (which i would normally never do).... same thing... in 20 seconds of cranking it hits like 2-3 times.... Only Check Engine Light is an Evap Leak that it has always had and couldn't find!....

I'm guessing that i have eliminated the fuel system as the source of the problem... I know they have issues with the coil packs... but how can i check this any further???.... Having a really bad week after having to buy another vehicle for myself!.... Just cant afford much more chaos!

Thank you very much guys.... for any and all help!...
Kelly

 

[jymmiejamz]

It probably needs a crank sensor. I've personally never seen a fuel pump go bad in a DII.

Also, send the Freelander to the scrap yard where it belongs.

 

[Rover_Hokie]

X2 Crank Position Sensor -- Adv Auto Part# CSS1050 -- NAPA Part# CSS9280

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_engine-crankshaft-position-sensor-bwd-intermotor_20473098-p?searchTerm=crank+position+sensor

Advance Auto Parts
1037 Riverview Dr, Kalamazoo, MI
(269) 373-1260 ‎

Advance Auto Parts
3511 S Westnedge Ave, Kalamazoo, MI
(269) 341-4480

These stores do not have it in stock, but they can get it next day

 

[1995-Disco-I]

Thanks guys!..... By chance anyone have the procedure for swapping it out?... Easy to do in a busy parking lot???....

 

[Rover_Hokie]

It is a pain, on paper straight forward, getting your hands and tools up in there, once you figure out where it is exaclty, a bit more of a challenge. Let me see if I have some pics or a link to some pics.

Instructions
http://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/how-change-crankshaft-position-sensor-2000-dii-25610/

You will need to get a login to see the attached pics in the thread.

REASSEMBLY NOTE: THE SENSOR GOES ON THE STUD FIRST, THEN THE 2 BARREL SPACERS, THEN THE 8mm NUTS. Protective cover uses 7mm head screws.

Other notes from other threads:
1) If you are doing this project on jack stands, position your body parallel to the frame with your head up near the oil pan. This body position will allow you to use two hands on the socket wrench, and see (kind of) what you are doing.
2) If you need extra access space, you can undo the three bolts on the exhaust manifold and pull it down about an inch. I couldn't get my wrists past the exhaust pipe without doing this.
3) I found that is was easier to access the connector from the topside of the engine. I pushed it out of the bracket with a screwdriver and fished the wire up with a coathanger.
4) Definitely plugging in harness from above before bolting on sensor is the way to go.

 

[jymmiejamz]

Thanks guys!..... By chance anyone have the procedure for swapping it out?... Easy to do in a busy parking lot???....

Its easy to do in the parking lot. I do them on the ground 90% of the time because its so quick and simple to do, rather than trying to push a non running car onto a lift.

 

[flyfisher11]

7&8mm tools

 

[Rover_Hokie]

Its easy to do in the parking lot. I do them on the ground 90% of the time because its so quick and simple to do, rather than trying to push a non running car onto a lift.

1995-Disco-I,

Tell me if you agree with jymmiejamz when you are done! Was it quick and simple to do the first time you replaced a CKPS?

 

[1995-Disco-I]

Awesome guys!... Autozone will have me on here tomorrow by 3pm.... $59, not bad at all..... I have not went back over to check it out yet.... so its on the passenger side, rear of the block?.... I would have though it would have been on the crank pulley up front!... Thanks again guys!.... And Rover Hokie.... I'll let you know!...

 

[1995-Disco-I]

Also, send the Freelander to the scrap yard where it belongs.

Oh, thats where she is now!.....

 

[jymmiejamz]

Awesome guys!... Autozone will have me on here tomorrow by 3pm.... $59, not bad at all..... I have not went back over to check it out yet.... so its on the passenger side, rear of the block?.... I would have though it would have been on the crank pulley up front!... Thanks again guys!.... And Rover Hokie.... I'll let you know!...

Its on the drivers side, the starter is on the passenger side.

 

[jymmiejamz]

I just remembered a good tip. Unplug the old one and plug the new one in before you bolt the new up to the block. The plug is the most difficult part of the job, but its not too bad on 99-02 DII's.

 

[1995-Disco-I]

Got it done!.... Started right up!.... WoooHooo!...... I had it towed as I knew it would suck to have to drag my 100lb jack and jack-stands and do this in a parking lot with friends of my wife walking by constantly leaving/coming and going on brake... they all know me and would have taken me 20 times longer to say hi, etc, etc, etc...... Probably the best $71 I spent this year!

It really wasn't that hard, like jymmiejamz said..... that damn plug was the hardest part of the whole job..... I could not figure out how to get it off the holder on the back of the block for a while... I had to study the new one.... the realized the tab pressed in and then slide the wires off toward the back of the rover... NOT PRESS AND PULL UP!!!

Now for a timeline:
Jack it up and put it on stands: 5 minutes
Find it, remove the heat shield (7mm), remove the (8mm) nuts, & sensor: 15 minutes
Unplug the damn thing & plug in the new one: 25-30 minutes (so mad I had to stop twice!)
Reinstall sensor, spacers, nuts, heat-shield & 7mm bolts: 10 minutes

I bet I could do it in half the time now!....

I found the when braking loose any of the bolts/nuts, it was best to have my body on the drivers side, left hand reaching in front of the exhaust stabilizing the head of the ratchet, right hand to the rear of the exhaust lightly on the handle of the ratchet.... Brake them loose, then slide you body more to the passenger side and reach up with your right hand (bent at an extreme angle!) and quickly remove the nuts/bolts!!!.... No need to mess around and try and remove the heat-shield from the area, just place it on top of the frame!

Thanks a bunch guys, I mean it!...