Disco II: need transfer help

M

Mark G

Guest
I've only had this 1999 Disco II for 3 months so I don't know it like I should. If anyone can help me out I would GREATLY appreciate it. Basically just trying to find out if I need to put a new transfer in it.

Here's the symptom, Driving in high range (transfer) there is a loud clunking that gets faster as you accelerate. It is louder under power and almost goes away if I let of the gas. If I put the transfer in low range the noise is gone and all sounds normal. I lifted up the rear wheels, started the vehical and put it in drive. Rear wheels turned but the fronts that were on the ground did not (making it a 2 wheel drive!) and yes still clunking and by getting under the car I can confirm it's coming from the transfer. I then took of the front drive shaft and of course now the vehical will know not even move confirming it's a 2wd instead of a 4wd.

I had it confirmed in my mind that it was cut and dry that I need a new transfer until reading tonight that the Disco II's have a ETC system that I know nothing about. Is it possible that I have a ETC problem or is it the transfer as I origally thought.

Thanks for your help and ideas...

Mark Gonska
 
eburrows

eburrows

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
317
27
46
Orange County, Ca, USA
www.erikburrows.com
The DII ETC system ties into the ABS system to apply the brakes to spinning wheels. If the ETC system was functioning in your truck, when you lifted the rear wheels, it should have applied the brakes to those wheels, sending torque to the front wheels, and pulled you off your stands.

Are any of your warning lights on? ABS? ETC? HDC? When you had your rear wheels off the ground, did the ETC light come on?

Either way, if you're hearing clunks from the transfer case, something more than just an ETC bug is going on. Land rovers have lots of driveline clunk, but only when changing direction, or when initially engaging.
 
R

Rocky

Well-known member
Apr 23, 2004
2,180
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Red Sox Nation
The 99 D2 has no CDL (officially). When you lifted both rear wheels and left the front on the ground, the center diff did exactly what it should, sending power to the rear wheels only, ETC works by braking the wheel on one side of the axle to send power to the wheel on the other side. You can lift a single wheel of a D1 and its going nowhere until the CDL is locked.
You say the noise you are hearing only happens at speed in hi range.
So is 30 mph in low no noise 30 mph in hi = noisy?
More noise when driving and less so to no noise when on overrun.
Is there a vibration as well?
Any recent service work? What was done?
My first stop Check the bolts of the propshafts to make sure they are still there and properly tightened.
Second. Any wear in the UJ?
Third: drain the T box. Any metal?
Fourth: refill t box. (us a pump to make your life simpler)
Fifth: Check all mounts for looseness
sixth come back and tell us what you've discovered (if anything)
 
M

Mark G

Guest
First off thanks for the replys. The are no lights on and the ABS fuse is good, actually if the ABS fuse is pulled it will not even start. I did not change the oil but did take the fill bolt out and the oil level is good. With the front drive shaft out, I start it up and put it in gear and it clunks with just the front output shaft turning (takes all the other drivetrain out of the picture since nothing else is moving). Yes 30mph in low is quiet, 30mph in high is noisey. Believe me, this clunking is loud and has you wondering just how soon the transfer is going to drop out on the ground.

I'm all but certain I just need to change it out. I do have a few questions though.

1, Can this tranfer be locked with a spanner from under the vehical? I thought I read something about this before.

2, The big drum on the rear output shaft of the tranfer, is this the parking brake?
 
Last edited:
DeanBrown3D

DeanBrown3D

Well-known member
Apr 29, 2004
765
0
www.discoweb.org
The stub should be there on your 1999. It turns about 30 degrees (clockwise from above).

Check the diffs and where the drive shafts bolt on. I've heard of them becoming loose once or twice. Is there any slack when you try to turn the drive shafts? Are the u-joints tight?

Oh and be careful when you are on 2 jack stands like that. If your ETC was working properly you would have pulled right off the damn things.

Dean
 
M

Mark G

Guest
When I crawl under the vehical where should I look for the stub? Is it on the top of the transfer where I can't see it?

Also, as far as the ETC goes, from the way I understand Chris, it only works from side to side (ie: left rear starts to spin and the etc applies brake to the left rear). Does it also work from front to back also? Even if it did I don't see how it would force power to the other axle if there is no CDL on the Disco II's? Is my ETC screwed along with the transfer?
 
S

Snwbord24

Guest
The easiest way I've found to check ETC is by using the HDC feature. You should be able to put it in low and 1st, get up some speed and just let off the gas. You should hear the ABS modulator kick in. It'll sound like it's coming from behind your dash. If HDC works then it's a pretty good bet that ETC works as well since they're run from the same system.

The CDL nipple is on top of the tcase behind the front driveshaft. Just feel around under there. It takes a 10-mm open end wrench.
 
DeanBrown3D

DeanBrown3D

Well-known member
Apr 29, 2004
765
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Lay down head to front, facing up, your right arm vertically below the transfer box. Lifting the right side of yourself, reach backwards, there is a channel your arm will fit.

Don't do this when its hot!

-D
 
M

Mark G

Guest
thanks guys, I found the CDL bolt and got it locked. I still have the front drive shaft off and now it at least moves. I didn't feel like putting the front drive shaft back in only to have to take it back off to change the transfer. It still clucks though so I didn't get lucky and have it disappear with the diff locked like I hoped.

I did notice that as soon as I started it up the dash is lite up like a x-mas tree though. The ABS light is on as well as the T/C light and another that shows 4 wheels with an x in the middle. I hope these will go out by them selves once all is put back to normal with have a computer reset.

I found a transfer on ebay for a Disco II

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7930963943&fromMakeTrack=true

but it states the CDL is an extra $50. The pic looks like mine except there is no CDL. I assume there are 2 different types of transfers, one with and one without cdl. I'm hoping they don't mean the CDL is an extra piece that I'd have to install myself.
 
craig

craig

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Oct 1, 2004
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Edmonds, WA
overlandnavigator.com
F

Frank84

Well-known member
Apr 29, 2004
190
4
Mark - the dash lighting up like a xmas tree was normal in your situation. When the diff is locked first and then car turned on the ABS, HDC, and ETC lights come on. If you turn the car on and then lock the diff (not advised because of the hot exhaust pipe but possible) the lights will not come on. This can be rewired so that no matter when you lock the diff (before or after starting) the lights will not come on and ETC, HDC, and ABS will be kept working. www.disco2.com has a write up on how to do it.
 
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