Who's running Slickrock or any other type of front sway disconnects? I removed my rear sway, have these slickrock quick disconnects on the front but a misaligned drill has screwed me on the chassis mounts. Not sure what to do, anybody else find a way to keep the sway bar/links up after disconnected? Not trying to weld another plate onto the chassis but whatever.
Disconnects
- Thread starter DiscoPhoto
- Start date
I'm running some type of links for a jeep (cherokee I believe) that some one gave me. The links seperate in the middle. I made some short stainless cables with small carabiner style hooks that I use to keep the swaybar and the top ends of the links as high as possible. On the lower side I replaced the lower mounts with hitch pins. That way I pull a retainer pin, slide the lower part or link off the hitch pins and throw them in the truck. Everything is out of the way. I'll try to post pics so you can see.
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Planning on making some with stud to loop eye shock converters at the top and then links constructed with heim joints and threaded stainless tubing. Going to attach them with stainless cotter pins top and bottom so I can just remove the whole link when I want. Should cost well under 100.00 for the pair.
Top and bottom would be nice... mine just disconnect at the bottom and the full link and sway bar just swing down.
As for removing the bar, my girlfriend still drives this thing 80mph on the highway, I don't want her to die....
....yet...
Keeping the front bar but I might disconnect the rear and drive around without it for a while to see how I like it. This is my first D2 and I've been driving mostly RRC's without any sway bars at all for quite a while and I never found the handling poor at any legal speed on the street/highway. Different beast than the D2 though.
http://s1356.photobucket.com/user/slammed7/library/swaybar disconects
Here are the pics of what I did. Basicly I put an eyelet that I ran a stainless cable loop with hook. When I swing the swaybar up I use this to keep it up. There is one on both sides. Very cheap. The cable, crimps, eyelet and hook all from home depot for a few bucks.
Here are the pics of what I did. Basicly I put an eyelet that I ran a stainless cable loop with hook. When I swing the swaybar up I use this to keep it up. There is one on both sides. Very cheap. The cable, crimps, eyelet and hook all from home depot for a few bucks.
I think the front makes way more difference on the road. I can barley tell with the rear off completely. Front helps with higher speeds and corners.
Nice, I like that. However, I don't really want to cut my SR fab tube in half to do it. I think I'll try your cable loop trick though!
I've not had any anti-sway bars on my '95 Disco since about 2001 and haven't ever really felt the need for them, even taking things like exit ramps at well over the posted speed limits. However, if a person tailgates and/or doesn't always pay attention to other traffic then they are probably a good idea.
How top heavy are you Tom? I've got a lot of weight above the chassis. Winch,ARB bar, full rack, sliders w/ tree bars, GD rear bumper, etc. I'm not so much worried for myself, but for others who may drive my vehicle. I'm not sure how the panhard rear conversion will affect the sway if at all, but that will be happening soon.
Quite top heavy at times before I bought a trailer. I've probably carried well over 500lbs on the roof rack a number of times. Obviously slower though.
But I don't let other people drive my vehicles so that issue doesn't come in to play for me.
But I don't let other people drive my vehicles so that issue doesn't come in to play for me.
I removed my ACE so basically have no sway bars.. The difference is night and day, border line dangerous really.
I wouldnt let anyone drive it unless they have driven lifted vehicles before.
I wouldnt let anyone drive it unless they have driven lifted vehicles before.
I've had my rear off for a while with almost no felt effects. I ran without the front once. Probably won't do it again. Just felt odd.
I have the Slickrock disconnects up front and secure them like this.
Zip tie the driver side disconnect through the lower bushing and around the sway bar.
For the passenger side I need 2 zip ties. The first goes through the bushing (leaving a long loop), the next one links through the first zip tie and through a bracket near the bumper. The bracket has a hole in it so I just keep that zip tie hanging there for the next time.
This is enough to keep the sway bar up out of the way, and the disconnects from rattling against anything.
Zip tie the driver side disconnect through the lower bushing and around the sway bar.
For the passenger side I need 2 zip ties. The first goes through the bushing (leaving a long loop), the next one links through the first zip tie and through a bracket near the bumper. The bracket has a hole in it so I just keep that zip tie hanging there for the next time.
This is enough to keep the sway bar up out of the way, and the disconnects from rattling against anything.
