Discovery 2 300 tdi engine swap.
- Thread starter bobkitten
- Start date
This is a non-Airbag steering wheel and dash, in a non-A/C 5 speed manual D2. It can be a commercial one.
Regards
I just did an R380 swap into my V8 D2, and was looking into doing the Td5 at the same time.
I would suggest it might be possible to do the 300tdi swap with less complexity than Beetle suggests, if you are accepting of the idea of completely de-electrifying the truck.
Gut everything, ECU, BCU, Gauges, etc. You might be able to keep ABS, I'm not sure. I believe the climate control could be made to work. The climate control sends a request to the ECU on a single wire. The ECU then decides if conditions are right to allow the AC compressor to run, and turns it on if it is. You might be able to just bypass the ECU altogether, wire the climate AC request wire into the AC compressor clutch circuit directly.
Replace all the gauges with aftermarket. Rewire the ignition switch to fire the starter directly.
The only real PITA is going to be the windows and door locks. It might be possible to sort that out by hardwiring the window motors to the switches with a relay bank. There's 8 wires from the window switches going to the BCU. The BCU sends a signal over the serial datalink to the Inteligent Driver Module. The module then runs the motors. The wires exist such that you could get rid of all that and run relays.
This is a potentially less elegant way to do it, but it might work.
But Tugela makes a very good point. You will have better luck looking for this info elsewhere. I'm sure it's been done before in the UK.
I would suggest it might be possible to do the 300tdi swap with less complexity than Beetle suggests, if you are accepting of the idea of completely de-electrifying the truck.
Gut everything, ECU, BCU, Gauges, etc. You might be able to keep ABS, I'm not sure. I believe the climate control could be made to work. The climate control sends a request to the ECU on a single wire. The ECU then decides if conditions are right to allow the AC compressor to run, and turns it on if it is. You might be able to just bypass the ECU altogether, wire the climate AC request wire into the AC compressor clutch circuit directly.
Replace all the gauges with aftermarket. Rewire the ignition switch to fire the starter directly.
The only real PITA is going to be the windows and door locks. It might be possible to sort that out by hardwiring the window motors to the switches with a relay bank. There's 8 wires from the window switches going to the BCU. The BCU sends a signal over the serial datalink to the Inteligent Driver Module. The module then runs the motors. The wires exist such that you could get rid of all that and run relays.
This is a potentially less elegant way to do it, but it might work.
But Tugela makes a very good point. You will have better luck looking for this info elsewhere. I'm sure it's been done before in the UK.
I'm a complete noob on this subject and many others but as far as the electronics are concerned, why couldn't someone in the states who wanted to switch out the V8 for the Tdi5 resource all the electronics such as the dash control panels, guage cluster above the steering wheel, ECU, and wiring harness from overseas? Emission standards? If one were to do that what existing parts would then also need to be replaced besides what's already been listed?
R_Lefebvre said:
Completely rewiring the vehicle is definitely an option and would give you complete control to customize whatever you wish without fighting the factory electronics. Does anyone know the reasoning behind even having things like BCU's, etc? It seems a lot more complex than required for just running windows, locks, etc. The only reason I can think of is to run an integrated alarm. If this is the only advantage, then I myself would be happy to do away with it all.
I got this from the Td5 section of the Rave manual. Would all of these components need to be replace to work with the diesel ECU?!
ENGINE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM - TD5
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION 18-1-5
1 Mass air flow sensor
2 Ambient air pressure sensor
3 Manifold absolute pressure/ inlet air
temperature sensor
4 Engine coolant temperature sensor
5 Crankshaft speed and position sensor
6 Throttle position sensor
7 Fuel temperature sensor
8 Brake pedal switch
9 Clutch switch
10 High/ Low ratio switch
11 Main relay
12 Malfunction indicator lamp
13 Fuel pump relay
14 Glow plug warning lamp
15 Glow plugs
16 Electronic unit injectors
17 Turbocharger wastegate modulator
18 EGR modulator
19 Diagnostic connector
20 Engine control module
21 Cruise control master switch
22 Cruise control SET+ switch
23 Cruise control RES switch
24 Air conditioning clutch relay
25 Air conditioning cooling fan relay
26 Electronic automatic transmission ECU
27 Self levelling and anti-lock brakes ECU
28 Instrument cluster
29 Body control unit
ENGINE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM - TD5
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION 18-1-5
1 Mass air flow sensor
2 Ambient air pressure sensor
3 Manifold absolute pressure/ inlet air
temperature sensor
4 Engine coolant temperature sensor
5 Crankshaft speed and position sensor
6 Throttle position sensor
7 Fuel temperature sensor
8 Brake pedal switch
9 Clutch switch
10 High/ Low ratio switch
11 Main relay
12 Malfunction indicator lamp
13 Fuel pump relay
14 Glow plug warning lamp
15 Glow plugs
16 Electronic unit injectors
17 Turbocharger wastegate modulator
18 EGR modulator
19 Diagnostic connector
20 Engine control module
21 Cruise control master switch
22 Cruise control SET+ switch
23 Cruise control RES switch
24 Air conditioning clutch relay
25 Air conditioning cooling fan relay
26 Electronic automatic transmission ECU
27 Self levelling and anti-lock brakes ECU
28 Instrument cluster
29 Body control unit
aliastel said:
I can't really say anything good about the D2's systems, it seems a cobbled mess to me. But it was an interim step on the way to a full CANbus system.
With canbus, a power window switch bank only needs 3 wires. Power, ground, and signal. It digitizes the window commands and sends them out on the bus. Then, the seat heat switches can actually use the same wires, and the door locks, etc. Save a lot of copper.
If all goes as it should this thread should serve to illustrate why the Discovery I is the superior vehicle.
TWR RRC's are the grocery getters. 
But yes - the D2's are much harder to do most anything to. As well as bloated and fat assed off road.
But yes - the D2's are much harder to do most anything to. As well as bloated and fat assed off road.
Roving Beetle. I been doing some researching and reading.... and I am increasingly curious about your Isuzu engine swap. Cost might be a factor here as i am quite likely to get a 4BD1T cheaper than a 300 TDI. What again makes that swap way more challenging than the 300 TDI?
R_Lefebvre said:
I apologize in advance for the hijack, but after seeing the above, I have to ask...............
Please elaborate on how to bypass the alarm triggers for the BCU. I keep getting an alarm code from my BCU and it won't allow any fule or spark to the engine. After ALL the work I've done to my rig, I would GLADLY get rid of the alarm system. Any advice?
Greg
Dooder:
I am not sure about everything on that list, but i have been reading alot on the TD5 swap from a few people in canada who have done the swap and have a list of the things i should need. I have family over in England and i am about to go over and buy a wrecked d2 and part everything i need. The main things that you need are the engine, intercooler, fuel lines, fuel pump/tank, fuel cooler, engine wiring harness, ecu and a few others that i have forgetten. I have found a few that range from 2-3k for the car, and upto 500-1k freight shipping on the parts depending on where you live and carrier, ect. I might be looking at a TD5 D2 for around 4k including a plane ticket. Since the TD5 came factory in the D2, majority of the car will work with the TD5 ecu, but that is the key to having it work properly. The downside is if something goes wrong you will have to order parts from overseas which can take forever.
I am not sure about everything on that list, but i have been reading alot on the TD5 swap from a few people in canada who have done the swap and have a list of the things i should need. I have family over in England and i am about to go over and buy a wrecked d2 and part everything i need. The main things that you need are the engine, intercooler, fuel lines, fuel pump/tank, fuel cooler, engine wiring harness, ecu and a few others that i have forgetten. I have found a few that range from 2-3k for the car, and upto 500-1k freight shipping on the parts depending on where you live and carrier, ect. I might be looking at a TD5 D2 for around 4k including a plane ticket. Since the TD5 came factory in the D2, majority of the car will work with the TD5 ecu, but that is the key to having it work properly. The downside is if something goes wrong you will have to order parts from overseas which can take forever.
here is one of the few places i have found some info, i am looking for the other links.
http://www.britrest.com/Diesel_notes/notes_on_diesel_conversions.htm
http://www.britrest.com/Diesel_notes/notes_on_diesel_conversions.htm
rycymru said:
you'll need motor mounts also and this will not be as easy as you think. Good luck getting it in country(not legal to import), you'll need to be creative with customs, but it is doable. It also will not pass emissions, if you need to worry about it...something about OBD2 compliance...
Good Luck
the motor mounts on the frame for a V8 are in a differet spot than the mounts for the TD5 as i recall. and the motor mounts themselves are different.
There are a lot of differences and the TD5 ECU will not just talk to the NAS D2 BCU etc... it's not that simple. It's not horrible but you better have the tools to recode the computers as well a creative way to get the engine past customs and such.
As for the post way above asking me about the 4BD1T and being a "cheaper" option? FAR from it. The amount of work and small stuff involved is FAr and above the effort and parts costs to put a Rover diesel in no matter which way you slice it. The $5K for the engine/trans is nothing in the build up of this type of thing.
As for the post way above asking me about the 4BD1T and being a "cheaper" option? FAR from it. The amount of work and small stuff involved is FAr and above the effort and parts costs to put a Rover diesel in no matter which way you slice it. The $5K for the engine/trans is nothing in the build up of this type of thing.
rycymru said:
rycymru:
Please keep me updated on this project as this is project that i'm looking at doing after my 4.6 reaches 200k. If there is a will there is a way. As far as customs are concerned I researched exactly what you are looking to do and found out that a one-time exemption can be used to get an import into the states.
As far as getting parts from the UK from what I've seen while getting a parts list together to rebuild my 100k 4.6 parts are cheaper and make up for the shipping costs. Not sure about TD5 parts though. But I can see though if you have a glow-plug(?) go out you'd be SOL fer 2-3 weeks.
KEEP ME POSTED!!!!