Discovery II Rear Panhard Rod Conversion

DiscoPhoto

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Jul 23, 2012
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Some info for the tech section on removing the watts linkage and going with a panhard rod.

Basically the idea is that with a watts linkage, you have reasonable articulation until a certain point where the linkage binds and there's no more give. There are ways around this, RTE has an extended watts linkage, as does Lucky8. I did not want to stay with the watts linkage as it's more complex and expensive to replace the bushings WHEN they DO go.

The benefit for a watts is definitely there, because it moves in a straight line essentially.


However, there is a curve and end to that line. Here is a panhard, it curves but allows for more movement.



I ended up buying the Ruff Stuff Specialties Panhard kit. It is a very nice kit that is all inclusive, everything you need to do the conversion comes with it. It is important to specify axle offset bracket and frame outside panhard. It can be found here: Panhard Kit - RuffStuff Specialties

Here's a photo I took of what I received in the package:



Basically you remove the Watts linkage, grind down the outside where there's that little bracket that hangs back, and weld the new brackets it. I am no good with a welder, so I had Don Trudeau of Portsmouth bang out the job for me. He did a great job and I highly recommend him.



And here it is finished:






As you can see it is coated in underbody spray, as we get a lot of corrosion in the North Eastern states.

Still running strong after a year or two

If I were to do it again, I would recommend mounting it on the outside of the spring, as you want the longest, flattest panhard possible.
 

Maximumwarp

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Mar 22, 2015
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Fairburn GA
How did this affect the on-road behavior? Looking at ditching my watts soon, this panhard kit is about half the price of RTE's modified linkages.
 

DiscoPhoto

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Jul 23, 2012
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Hardly, if at all. Never noticed it be honest. Drove 4 hours to the shop, 4 hours back, couldn't tell the difference. I still absolutely recommend this, but make sure you weld it into the spring perch like Don did. I've seen a couple fail because they're welded directly to the chassis, which is too thin and will have a hole ripped out of it.
 

Maximumwarp

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Mar 22, 2015
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Fairburn GA
Hardly, if at all. Never noticed it be honest. Drove 4 hours to the shop, 4 hours back, couldn't tell the difference. I still absolutely recommend this, but make sure you weld it into the spring perch like Don did. I've seen a couple fail because they're welded directly to the chassis, which is too thin and will have a hole ripped out of it.
Excellent point, noted.
 

Maximumwarp

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Mar 22, 2015
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Fairburn GA
What did you end up doing for bumpstops? I know that was a point of contention in the other thread. I have the giant orange bumpstops from Lucky8. Although that may be a moot point if I kick the mount all the way out past the spring.
 

K-rover

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Jan 15, 2010
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Raleigh, NC
Finally got mine done.
Took Zachs advice and pushed it out pas the springs. Im pretty happy with it so far. It doesnt drive any differently down the road. Ill find out how it does off road in a few weeks!










 

roverover

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Feb 27, 2005
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2 reasons
first the rod is way too short we have brought them out to the springs for better flex
second its welded to a piece of tin that will eventually rip off and then he will not only loose his rear control but all his diff oil too
 

K-rover

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Jan 15, 2010
1,874
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Raleigh, NC
2 reasons
first the rod is way too short we have brought them out to the springs for better flex
second its welded to a piece of tin that will eventually rip off and then he will not only loose his rear control but all his diff oil too

Exactly.. Just about every one Ive seen done before has been too short.
 

DiscoPhoto

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Jul 23, 2012
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Just to clarify, Dan was joking. That install is the scariest I've ever seen. I believe he's having it fixed, as everyone told him it was completely unsafe.