DIY 60k Service Complete - A few Thoughts

Meisterbr?wn

Well-known member
Jul 20, 2004
252
0
48
Longview, WA
Well I wrapped up the 60k service on my Disco II last night around 6:00. It's a 2000 with 57,300 miles. Go ahead and laugh, but it took me and a friend about 10 hours to do the whole thing. This friend of mine is a shade tree mechanic who is known for automatic transmission work. I know absolutely nothing. Anyway, he's got general mechanic knowledge and a good shop so I offered to pay him to help me do the 60k.

Out of the 10 hours - I think we spent 5 (yes, seriously) on the plugs & wires. The plugs were no problem but the wires were terrible. We tried removing the intake manifold, but got too frustrated/intimidated and decided to leave it in place and work around it. It was a long frustrating morning.

After a couple hours of trying to get at the plug wires, we decided to skip this step - I would take it to a shop for the wires. Things went great until the very last spark plug wire broke off. At that point, we had to replace one wire and we figured if we can get one, we can get eight. Next time I need to replace the wires - I'm paying a pro shop to do it for me. Just my $.02.

Pretty much everything else went great. We had the truck on a two post lift and had zero problems with it. This access made the fluid changes a breeze, doing this with the truck on the ground would definitely add an unwanted layer of difficulty. My diff fluids looked perfect, transmission fluid was great, very very few shavings at the magnets. My friend drained the transfer case fluid when I wasn't looking and mentioned it looked a bit milky. I might replace that again in a few months to have another look.

One thing that bothered me a little was the condition of the oil. After draining it completely, I poured in about 1/2 quart to try and "push" some more of the bad stuff out. There was still a lot of tiny particles that I could see - basically more dirty oil. I really wish I had put some cheap dino oil in (instead of $$$ synthetic), ran it for a few days then changed it again. I might still do that.

For your info, here's how my parts broke down:
Havoline Dex Cool
Royal Purple 75w90 gear oil
Royal Purple 10-40w motor oil
Castroil DOT 4 brake fluid $146
ATF Fluid $23
ATF Filter kit $60
Plug Wires $80
Air Filter $14
Oil Filter $10
Spark Plugs $20
Labor $300
Benefits $25 (beer, burritos)
Total $678

This was definitely a money save for me vs.. taking it to an indie shop or (heaven forbid) the dealer. But more importantly it was a great learning experience. There is no way I could have done all the work by myself.

As I said, you guys laugh all you want, but I learned a lot. Namely: I'd like to strangle whoever designed the plug wires with my bruised, deformed hands.

Meisterbr?wn signing off.
 
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jmoore

Well-known member
Oct 7, 2004
1,255
0
Clifton Park, New York
I need to do the same, I have 55K on the clock. The only thing that concerns me is the brake fluid, transmiision and the ACE fluid.

I used to do the transmission fluid on my RRC, but at least it had a fill spout in the engine bay.
 

hywy61

Well-known member
May 25, 2004
738
0
atlanta, ga
good to know

Getting ready to do my plug wires - actually dreading it.

I spoke with a former Land Rover tech this weekend. He was very critical of the design as well. He said they never took off the intake phlem(sp?) .

Basically told me to lay a blanket over the intake and get back there with a screw driver or self - built tool and pry those wires off. Says it is easier if you do them all at once vs one at a time.

Which did you do? Reconnect at any particular order?

Also said to spray some lubricate like WD 40 on the wires before reconecting to the coil packs.

I might just follow your advice on taking it somewhere - my dealer would charge about $300 to do it i think.

Two post lift ? front i am assuming? ok to have it at an angle like that?

I skipped the lift last time and it was a PITA!!!
 

Meisterbr?wn

Well-known member
Jul 20, 2004
252
0
48
Longview, WA
Hey John -
The transmission fluid was the second easiest fluid to change (easiest being engine oil). You definitely will need some kind of pump to add fluid to the transmission pan, but the plugs are easy to remove, and filter & gaskets are very easy to replace. There is really nothing to worry about there. Here is a link to a good description:
Transmission fluid & filter change

Having a second person will be helpful, especially when you're topping up the fluid and you need someone to shift through the gears.

Brake fluid was really easy too, but definitely a two person job. I pumped the brakes while my buddy bled them. I'm not sure if this is protocol, but we bled all of the old brake fluid out of the resivoir through the first wheel (passenger front). It takes a long time because not a lot of fluid comes out each "cycle" and you have to constantly keep an eye on the resivoir. After we got the resivoir bled out, the other three wheels went quick. We used a little more than 2 quarts of brake fluid. Rememer the order: passenger front, driver front, passenger rear, driver rear.

I don't have ACE, so I'm no help there. Good luck, it's not that bad.
 

jmoore

Well-known member
Oct 7, 2004
1,255
0
Clifton Park, New York
Cool,

Thanks for the link, that doesn't seem too bad! Time to buy some torx drivers!

I remember I didn't change the filter in my RRC, because the X member was rusted into place.

I had heard, the dealer uses the ABS pumps to get rid of the old brake fluid, but I guess the old foot works just as well.

Thanks man!
 

Meisterbr?wn

Well-known member
Jul 20, 2004
252
0
48
Longview, WA
hywy61 said:
Getting ready to do my plug wires - actually dreading it.

I spoke with a former Land Rover tech this weekend. He was very critical of the design as well. He said they never took off the intake phlem(sp?) .

Basically told me to lay a blanket over the intake and get back there with a screw driver or self - built tool and pry those wires off. Says it is easier if you do them all at once vs one at a time.

Which did you do? Reconnect at any particular order?

Also said to spray some lubricate like WD 40 on the wires before reconecting to the coil packs.

I might just follow your advice on taking it somewhere - my dealer would charge about $300 to do it i think.

Two post lift ? front i am assuming? ok to have it at an angle like that?

I skipped the lift last time and it was a PITA!!!

We went 1 wire at a time because I was pretty concerned with messing up the order (there have been a few posts about that recently). It would definitely be easier to take them all off at once and if you had a good diagram of the layout, this would save you a lot of time. Looking back on it, this is probably a very smart way to go. When we were in the heat of things, I just didn't think to do it. Then again, if the $300 includes the plugs and wires, that might be money well spent.

The intake plenum (not "phlem" - lol) is what I was referring to as the intake manifold, manifold I believe is the correct term. One of my LR reference materials says to remove the manifold before doing the wires - I just didn't have the stones to go through with it.

This two post lift we had must be different than other two post lifts...or maybe I'm not describing it correctly. It has two posts and then two support arms per post so there are four total points to support the rig. It was level and 100% stable during the entire process. In fact, I was in the vehicle pumping the brakes while during the brake bleeding and I started it up during the transmission fluid change - all while on the lift. At no point did I have the slightest bit of safety concern. I'll try and post a few pics this afternoon.

Oh yeah, we didn't do the WD40 thing on the connections at the coil packs/distributors/whatever they're called. I hadn't heard about that one, so I won't comment.
 

Meisterbr?wn

Well-known member
Jul 20, 2004
252
0
48
Longview, WA
jmoore said:
I had heard, the dealer uses the ABS pumps to get rid of the old brake fluid, but I guess the old foot works just as well.

Interesting. I also read somewhere that there was a procedure via the "Testbook" to change the brake fluid in addition to the old fashioned manual procedure. I wonder if there is a built-in program that the Testbook controls that does some kind of automatic bleed process...
 
D

Disco Mike

Guest
Adrian,
How about buying a can of engine oil flush and running it before your next oil change, that will help you clean it up.
Mike J.
 

Meisterbr?wn

Well-known member
Jul 20, 2004
252
0
48
Longview, WA
Disco Mike said:
Adrian,
How about buying a can of engine oil flush and running it before your next oil change, that will help you clean it up.
Mike J.
Hey Mike -
That was the one suggestion of yours that I didn't follow. My friend said he thought a lot of those products were cheap marketing gimmicks so I didn't get one. The more I think about my dirty oil, the more I think I'll go get it changed again this week. I hate spending another $40 on oil, but it's a small price to pay for a happy engine. I'll do the engine flush product prior to that too - aside from Seafoam, do you recommended any product in particular?

Thanks again,
Adrian
 

Apexdisco

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
691
0
46
Castle Rock, CO
jmoore said:
Cool,

Thanks for the link, that doesn't seem too bad! Time to buy some torx drivers!

I remember I didn't change the filter in my RRC, because the X member was rusted into place.

I had heard, the dealer uses the ABS pumps to get rid of the old brake fluid, but I guess the old foot works just as well.

Thanks man!


This might help you. Get some Torx at Sears.
 
S

smenzel

Guest
Nice write-up. The 60k service does take a while.

If I recall correctly, the transmission filter only needs to be done once at the 30k service.

Castroil DOT 4 brake fluid $146
This sounds awful expensive for brake fluid AND it's DOT 4. I get DOT 4 & 5 confused. Is this the synthetic stuff? I seem to recall the Discovery requiring DOT 3.
 

Meisterbr?wn

Well-known member
Jul 20, 2004
252
0
48
Longview, WA
Ha ha!

I was wondering if that might cause some confusion...no, the $146 was for ALL of the above mentioned fluids.

Although I can tell a difference in mileage with that synthetic blinker fluid the dealer sold me....
 
D

Disco Mike

Guest
Adrian,
If you were to go out and look at the color of your oil right now, then dump a $5.00 can of engine flush in, let it idle for 10 minutes and change it, it will come out dirty. Most of those products work real well.
I add a qt. of cleaner just before every 3rd oil change and then drain the oil after a long idle and it sure keeps the varnish down.
Mike J.
 
A

agro1

Guest
jmoore said:
Dialectic grease would be better than WD40.

Why would you want to do that ? D'lectric grease will PREVENT any spark going from the coil pack to the wires...
 

DeanBrown3D

Well-known member
Apr 29, 2004
765
0
www.discoweb.org
Adrian, why are you so concerned about the engine sludge? You've already been driving around for several thousand miles with it all in there. Adding new oil isn't gonna suddenly mix it all up.
 

markj11

Active member
Apr 20, 2004
40
0
48
MS
Plug wires

I changed my plug wires one at time b/c after getting the first one off I was worried I might not be able to it back on, very frustrating. Took a week for knuckles to heal, I still have to do #7. I wish that coupon didn't say "Void if copied".
 
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