Do you sharpen your own chainsaws?

[DeanBrown3D]

These machines that cost $200-300 for sharpening chains, do they work well? The guy at the Stihl shop tells me they use a $1500 machine ($9 a chain for me), and that the little machines like I can afford are crap and don't work, and i'll be sharpening every other cut. Is this BS?

I do seem to be cutting muddy logs, unfortunately. Was thinking of getting the pressure washer out before a load of cutting and getting most of it off that way. Tips welcome here

-Dean

 

[Kyle]

For starters you need to knock the drags down on all chains , even new ones out of the box. You will be amazed at how much better the saw works when this is done. However , if the saw is weak it will bog down like a bitch. I filed them by hand and it doesnt take very long to do. Just wedge the saw between your hip and a stationary object and go to work with the file...

 

[Steve Rupp]

I tried the 12v Portable Chain Grinder without good results. I don't know if I used it correctly, but it didn't do it for me. I just found that it was easier for me to just keep buying new chains since I don't use it as much as it seems you do.

 

[Kyle]

Didnt work cause you probably didnt knock the drags down....

 

[MUSKYMAN]

I have about 8 chains that rotate in and out of the local sharpener up near our cabin...up in logging country you are just better off...costs about $2 a chain and they do such a good job I will never sharpen a chain again

 

[DeanBrown3D]

Typical - NJ is as usual 5x more expensive thn anywhere else.

Kyle the drags you mention are the leading bits before the cutting edge? Some kind of antikickback?

 

[noee]

I do what MuskyMan does, except I've only got 4 chains and a fairly small saw (Stihl 026 Pro). I used to sharpen by hand and found that I was shortening chain life by about half because I'm an impatient SOB and generally not accurate with the file.

 

[andrewv]

Absolutely file the drags down! That's the biggest improvement you can make. I sharpen mine with a Dremel, as they have specific bits for it and it goes pretty fast. I try to sharpen 2-3 at a time, so there's usually a good one around.

 

[antichrist]

These?

The $300 dollar machines work if you set them up right. However, they aren't made for day in day out chain sharpening so I wouldn't expect them to last in a commercial environment. One advantage of them is that you can easily grind the cutters and depth guages all the same and get even cutting.
That said, I've sharpened many a chain by hand while out in the woods.

 

[DeanBrown3D]

So how long does it take to sharpen a chain with that machine?

 

[andrewv]

Takes about 5-10 minutes with a Dremel.

 

[Leslie]

I suck at sharpening things.... knives, chainsaw blades, etc.... Knowing this, I know it serves me better to let someone do it that can. If I had a machine like that one that antichrist posted, which is like the local shop has, I'd probably be okay. But, they only charge $3/chain, so, I've got about a half-dozen that I have them sharpen.

Unfortuanately, the ones I have are the cheaper Oregon ones.... they dull out quicker than Stihl chains. The local saw shop likes both Husky and Stihl saws, but, only recommends Stihl chains. They actually buy the stuff by the reel, and measure off the chain and rivet it for you, cheaper than buying them pre-boxed. Over time, I'll swap over to Stihl chains on my Husky.....

FWIW.....



-L

 

[landy light]

I have a Stihl 028 with an 18" bar on it. I sharpen my own with a file and it by far gets a much sharper edge on it than with a machine. Just put it in a vice, and lock it down sharpen all of them unlock and do the next side, i usually only have to hit them up 2 or 3 times unless i get into some dirt or something. The files only cost a couple of bucks and you can do on your time right in your shop and they last a pretty decent time.
It does take some practice but it is worth it.

 

[antichrist]

I have a Stihl 028 with an 18" bar on it. I sharpen my own with a file and it by far gets a much sharper edge on it than with a machine.snip

I'm willing to bet that if it's sharpend right with a machine, it will stay sharp longer than by your hand filing.
As with most edges, the sharper the edge, usually the sooner it's dull.

When I was logging I sharpened by hand during the week, then used the machine on the weekend to do all my chains to get things even again. But after 20 years my bench machine has broken, and I need to get some parts for it.

 

[Kavic]

I do it the way Kyle does on my lap with a file. If it takes too long you're not doing it right.

Stihl MS 290 Farm Boss with 16" bar

Gotta love the way a sharp Stihl cuts!!

 

[DeanBrown3D]

So yuo guys using a diamond file or what?

 

[Kavic]

Just using the Stihl file and depth guage...

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/acc_filing.html#OILOMATIC?

 

[DeanBrown3D]

Any idea of the cost of those? I mean the bar and the bench mounted files?

 

[Kai]

Our cardinal rule for operating a chainsaw:

DON"T CUT DIRT!

If you do, it will dull you blade before you can make it through the next log. When you are cutting logs laying on the ground, either raise them or be careful. A couple of incorrect passes and your blade will be shot. This happens a lot when people clear brush too. Instead of cutting 2" up from the soil, they cut into the ground thinking "hey, let's not leave a little stump". This will really piss you off and ruin your chain saw experience! (which can be actually fun and stress releiving!)

For sharpening, all you need is a dremel. If you go to Home depot and look around you will see bits specifically made for chainsaw filing. It is really pretty easy. No depth guage needed.

A crappy chainsaw with a sharp blade can still do some amazing things!

 

[antichrist]

Just using the Stihl file and depth guage...

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/acc_filing.html#OILOMATIC?

I found that Pherd files last longer. Or did when I was logging about 20 years or so ago.