Drive Shaft
- Thread starter DiscoKids
- Start date
A
ajh
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two 9/16 wrenches and be careful to not round out the bolt. I bought a special tool awhile back to take driveshafts off and it has been one of the best purchases i have made! It is basically a thin wall socket with an extension.
Mine was weird.
But its a Land Rover so it goes how it goes.
Mine was 9/16 nut and 14mm bolt.
Yup
Go Figure
But its a Land Rover so it goes how it goes.
Mine was 9/16 nut and 14mm bolt.
Yup
Go Figure
like they said 2 9/16th wrenches.
I undid all the bolts on the front first. Leave on bolt through one of the holes so the shaft doesn't come down completely, it makes it that much harder to get at the rear bolts like that.
Put the tranny in Neutral (make sure you chock them tires!) and that way i can rotate the shaft to try and get to the rear bolts, its a pain and a slow process since you cant get that much movement from the wrench each time. I put two bolt in the front anytime i dont want the shaft to rotate freely so i can have leverage to crack the rear bolt i want, once its loose, i take the one bolt out of the front again to continues working the nuts loose..... its not hard work just annoying.
and make sure you have good contact between nut and wrench, don't get desperate....you round them poppies up and thats a whole other ball of wax.
I undid all the bolts on the front first. Leave on bolt through one of the holes so the shaft doesn't come down completely, it makes it that much harder to get at the rear bolts like that.
Put the tranny in Neutral (make sure you chock them tires!) and that way i can rotate the shaft to try and get to the rear bolts, its a pain and a slow process since you cant get that much movement from the wrench each time. I put two bolt in the front anytime i dont want the shaft to rotate freely so i can have leverage to crack the rear bolt i want, once its loose, i take the one bolt out of the front again to continues working the nuts loose..... its not hard work just annoying.
and make sure you have good contact between nut and wrench, don't get desperate....you round them poppies up and thats a whole other ball of wax.
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If you can lock the CDL.
04 you can lock inside with the shifter.
02-03 - you're screwed, no way to lock it.
99-01 - you probably have a CDL knob on top of of the transfer case you can lock it with a 10mm wrench and drive with only 1 driveshaft in until you get it repaired and replaced.
There's articles on CDL's in tech section that show you where it's at and what to look for.
Just be careful of the exhaust pipe if the car is hot.
04 you can lock inside with the shifter.
02-03 - you're screwed, no way to lock it.
99-01 - you probably have a CDL knob on top of of the transfer case you can lock it with a 10mm wrench and drive with only 1 driveshaft in until you get it repaired and replaced.
There's articles on CDL's in tech section that show you where it's at and what to look for.
Just be careful of the exhaust pipe if the car is hot.
well unfortunatly I had the transfer case replaced o couple of years ago and I specifically asked if the new case had the knob and of couse it didnt. I need to replace the u-joints on my 2000MY DII since im at 85K miles. Who has the best resource for iether replacing the ujoints or getting a replacement shaft? I have replaced ujoints on my old jeep but it was a PITA so I would probably like a shop to do it.
Just find a local driveshaft shop, they should be able to do it in one day easy if you make an appointment (or at least I'd think so).
Well i just removed the front drive shaft and oh man am I glad I didnt drive any more than I did. One of the u-joint cups is cracked and flared out. Wouldnt have been long until this thing let go! Think i will take to the drive shaft shop tomorrow. Thanks for the info.
good for you! you just saved yourself a bunch of money -check the rears too while your under there........and check the slip joints too.
Well, it looks like I may be doing this job myself. I called a local driveshaft company here in Dallas and he tells me they want nearly $500.00 to rebuild it. I asked if that price was for a rebuild or a new shaft and he responded with a single "yes". Im sorry but I guess thats a bargin when compared to a new DS from LRNA but that sounds way steep for replacing 3 u-joints. Now to find the prefered parts for the job.
$500 - that is crazy. Had mine done less than two weeks ago for under $150 - 2 joints, not three. At the most, this job should cost you $200. Try this - go to Superpages.com, and look up drive shafts in your local market.
I have the instructions, downloaded from here, if you would like them to DIY. Send me a PM and I will e-mail it to you.
I have the instructions, downloaded from here, if you would like them to DIY. Send me a PM and I will e-mail it to you.
Thank you. I think i will attempt the fix myself. Now if i could only find the parts in stock!
ddotson said:
RAVE has very good instructions for this SIMPLE $50 job. 14mm is 9/16 for all the world. Get your thinest wall box end wrench and a deep 6 pt thin wall 9/16 and press on. Get the DANA U-Joints from NAPA or O'Riely's not Autozoo or the likes. Give yourself 4 hours from start to finish and spend the $450.00 on a nice set of springs!!
Remove the axle end first and then use a bungie to hold the shaft up so you can work the lower bolts at the transmission, then rotate the shaft and get the other 2 bolts. Don't pull the shaft apart at the slip joint, mark it just in case so you can keep the "phase" correct. The best home tool for replacing the joints is the Harbor Freight Ball Joint Tool kit. Works great and makes it much easier than sockets and c-clamps.
Remove the axle end first and then use a bungie to hold the shaft up so you can work the lower bolts at the transmission, then rotate the shaft and get the other 2 bolts. Don't pull the shaft apart at the slip joint, mark it just in case so you can keep the "phase" correct. The best home tool for replacing the joints is the Harbor Freight Ball Joint Tool kit. Works great and makes it much easier than sockets and c-clamps.
Well it didnt go so easy and not as cheap as what Robert suggests but definitly cheaper than a new shaft. I ended up with about $100 worth of parts which included 3 u-joints and a centering ball kit. Couldnt find a u-joint kit to rent so I purchased a 6" vice since everyone should have one anyway right?? Front u-joint went as it should but once i started on the back end that was not so fun. was able to finally extract the rear most u-joint and centering ball but the middle u-joint wouldnt come apart and eventually one of the bearing caps broke apart as the ujoint pushed through it. This was the u-joint that was failing. I ended up finding another drive shaft shop that charged me a resonable $75.00 for labor and used the rest of my parts. They even ballanced and painted it. So for $175.00 am good. I still have to ask why the ujoints arent greasable from LR in the first place? Thanks all for the help.
Sorry to mislead you. Apparently there is something in your Disco 1 rear shaft I am unfamiliar with. Sounds like you have a double cardigin joint or some other type of CV joint in it. My description was for a simple single u-joint on each end. Glad it worked out though. Post a photo of your rear shaft for others to see when they search this.
What spending that much is krazee, when doing mine should be no more then 200 done by yourself, good thing i had a 12ton press, bought 3 ujoints 16.99 autozone, then flex joint for 80, no more shake