EAS - Rear sagging on flat surface.

[Geflackt]

Just had our '01 HSE in for some warranty work and one issue is the EAS. When sitting on a flat surface, the rear tends to sag almost to the bump stops. This happens overnight and is more pronounced during the cold temps. On one occasion after the RR sat for a few days, it took almost 10 minutes to re-level. The system also will not level the RR after a door is opened and closed and the front remains at the normal or extended height.

The dealer replaced the rear springs hoping this would help, but it is still sagging overnight. Most of the system is now less than a year old as I had other EAS issues when I bought the RR.

Any ideas what could be causing this sagging?? I'm still covered under warranty but am just looking for more help.

Thanks!
Jason.
'01 RR HSE.
'00 DII.

 

[roverfixer27025]

Ask your dealer to use thier handy-dandy Land Rover mandated tool to trim the ends of the pipes (if they haven't already. You can do it yourself with a razor blade but it just isn't as clean and straight a cut.).
Further, the o-rings in the valve body and/or the spring may be leaking. These are cheap and easy to replace. Without leaks at these locals, sounds like a poor sealing valve block. If the rig is out of warranty, try (CAREFULLY) swapping the solenoids on the block to see if the problem moves around.

Rock on.
CBiggs
ROVERfixer

 

[Geflackt]

OK, thanks for the advice. I'll check my lines.

Vehicle is still under warranty. I'm taking it back to have them fix a few items that weren't fixed the first time - the EAS problem being one of them.

It's amazing that the dealer can't seem to fix their own air suspension system. The valve block, air bags(twice on the rear), compressor, and some o-rings were replaced last year. I have had this thing in at least 5 times in the last year for air suspension problems - the first 3 times I told them EXACTLY what the problem was(o-rings) and they still couldn't fix it.

If a line were leaking, wouldn't the system see a change in a corner and drop the other corners to remain level?? Mine doesn't do that. The left rear just sags and make the vehicle look like it has a flat.

We'll see what they find when I take it in next week.
Jason.

 

[roverfixer27025]

"If a line were leaking, wouldn't the system see a change in a corner and drop the other corners to remain level?? Mine doesn't do that. The left rear just sags and make the vehicle look like it has a flat."

If the vehicle hasn't been cranked, the EAS will wake up every six hours to level. Apparently yours is leaking faster than that.

To be fair to the tech's at your dealership, LRNA's training is not what it used to be. And tech turnover at some dealers is becoming very high. Couple these two with the precipitous drop in labor times and a lot of poor service quiality issues can be explained.

Rock on.
CBiggs
ROVERfixer

 

[Geflackt]

It is frustrating dealing with the dealer. At my last visit, I actually left with a good feeling that everything was fixed and they went above and beyond on some things. This dealer is not close to me, so the fact that I have to travel back there because they couldn't actually fix or finish the job is quite annoying.

But back to the problem... if I were to open and close a door, should the vehicle level itself even without the engine running or having the ignition on?? I'm also leaning towards the height sensor, but I'd expect problems while running. Which then points back to a leak somewhere but it doesn't make sense that it wouldn't level even after sitting for 10-12 hours(or more).

Do the lines ever have problems along the chassis(not at the ends or o-rings)??

Jason.

 

[roverfixer27025]

If you had a bad height sensor, you'd likely have the sagging condition all the time. And corrupt sensors light off warning lights pretty quick. And yes, opening and shutting the doors might bring the other corners down. And remember, it won't lower the rest of the vehicle below access mode.

The lines seldom give problems. I've seen the occasional one chafe at the RH FT corner and the Rears get melted from leaking (grossly) exhaust gasses but that's about it. Alone, the lines only give problems at the ends where they connect.

Rock on.
CBiggs
ROVERfixer
roverfixer@triad.rr.com
336.456.5972

 

[agro1]

I have had this thing in at least 5 times in the last year for air suspension problems - the first 3 times I told them EXACTLY what the problem was(o-rings) and they still couldn't fix it.
We'll see what they find when I take it in next week.
Jason.

You must like going to the dealer - they got a hot service writer or something ? Yeah, it's under warranty, but what is your time worth ? I know my time is worth more than it would cost to rip all that EAS shit out and install coils....

 

[Geflackt]

Well, when I get the garage finished and a lift installed later in the year I'll be doing a lot of the stuff at home - warranty issues or not! We even have a dealer 5 minutes from work and we don't use them unless it's absolutely positivididdly necessary.

Trying to hang on to the EAS as long as possible. I converted my '95 over to coils and it was surprisingly easy! But this Rangie still feels "new" enough to me I'm just not ready to convert.

Yeah - I love going to the dealer - especially after one of the writers told me the Range Rovers don't have shocks - just air springs.....

Jason.

 

[agro1]

Yeah - I love going to the dealer - especially after one of the writers told me the Range Rovers don't have shocks - just air springs.....

Jason.

Maybe that's why they are constantly failing !!! NO SHOCKS ?!?!?! LOL - Ask that nimrod if he knows what a P38 is...

 

[Geflackt]

That's great!!

"no shocks" may have meant the shocks had gone bad, which is why I had to have them replaced at 49k miles.

Jason.

 

[Geflackt]

LOL - Ask that nimrod if he knows what a P38 is...

Maybe he'll respond that the P38 is a can opener.....

 

[p m]

Luke - you've made your choice, but:
if your airbags are in a good shape, I wouldn't replace them with coils. Just connect them in pairs f&r, and run the lines to shraeder valves put in some area protected from elements. Takes 2 seconds to lift/lower/level the truck with a CO2 tank. The ride is better with airbags than with coils, they cost next to nothing these days, and it takes 10 minutes to replace a bad one.

 

[agro1]

Peter - Chances are your usual RR owner, in a recent model P38, doesn't own it for it's off-road prowess....and likewise, isn?t going to have a C02 tank around...By the time you're done running all the bags together, installing the necessary pluming and valves, etc., you could have just gone to coils and not worry about it and NOT continue to Band-Aid the problem that WILL come back. Yeah, I've made my choice, and it's the best choice when I see the number of people complaining about their EAS. Also, my P38 rides MUCH better after the coil install. Much less body roll on road, better dampening, better articulation off-road and no worries that it's going to leave me stranded.

 

[ckuhtz]

Peter - Chances are your usual RR owner, in a recent model P38, doesn't own it for it's off-road prowess....and likewise, isn?t going to have a C02 tank around...By the time you're done running all the bags together, installing the necessary pluming and valves, etc., you could have just gone to coils and not worry about it and NOT continue to Band-Aid the problem that WILL come back. Yeah, I've made my choice, and it's the best choice when I see the number of people complaining about their EAS. Also, my P38 rides MUCH better after the coil install. Much less body roll on road, better dampening, better articulation off-road and no worries that it's going to leave me stranded.

Which kit did you go with and which shocks?

 

[Geflackt]

So I take the RR to the dealer on Wednesday to have them look at the sagging rear for the 2nd time. A few weeks ago I had it there and they just threw parts at it hoping it would be fixed - new airbags in the rear. All this is under warranty at the moment, although now we're into certified warranty.

Anway, yesterday I talked to them and they aren't seeing a problem!! Almost every night this thing sags the rear to the bump stops which then opens the gap between the front wheel and fender(as if the rear tires went flat on a regular car - the rear drops and the front lifts). The night the dealer leaves it outside it doesn't sag - or at least they didn't notice. Supposedly they had been fiddling with it to check things and I'm wondering if they did something that now it's not sagging. Something is definitely wrong but they aren't seeing it.

Any suggestions?? I've lined up to take it to another dealer, but this looks like one I may have to solve myself.

I'd like to try cleaning up the ends of the lines and replace the o-rings, but the lines at the valve block are VERY tight, so I don't know if I can cut any more off to clean up the ends. How tough is it to just replace the entire line??

Source and part number for the o-rings??

Thanks!
Jason.
'01 HSE.
'00 DII.