Ecoboost in a Disco 1

DiscoClay

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Mar 18, 2021
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Chapel Hill, North Carolina, USA
Of course it isn't. It is rated at least that much times the first gear ratio (~2.5).
That's adjusted for engine output. I read that somewhere.. i will look for the link!
I'm pretty sure first gear on my R380 is ~3.69:1 ...so that makes 232lbft * 3.69 * 3.32:1 (low range) * 3.54 = ~10,000lb/ft torque... a smidge above 300 :)

On a related note, have any of you used the ashcroft limited slip center diff? (https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/product/ashcroft-lt230-atb-diff/). That said, you can order a brand new Ashcroft LT230 with 300M intermediate shaft, 300M output shaft, deep sump, and the LD center (diff-lock still works) for ~$2500 all in. THAT is tempting :)

I'm playing with the new grok3, so I asked it what it thought, here is what it spit out (your results *will* vary):

Further Digging on Torque Ratings (Converted)
R380 Torque Rating (NAS V8)
  • Revised Estimate: ~380 Nm = 380 × 0.737562 = 280 lb-ft crank input capacity.
  • Support:
    • Ashcroft: Suggests stock capacity near 400 Nm (295 lb-ft) before upgrades. Ashcroft - R380.
    • Syncro Gearboxes: Rates it at 380 Nm (280 lb-ft). Syncro Gearboxes - R380.
    • Matches 3.9L V8’s 315 Nm (232 lb-ft) with margin.
LT230 Torque Rating (NAS V8)
  • Revised Estimate:
    • Continuous: ~550 Nm = 550 × 0.737562 = 406 lb-ft crank input capacity.
    • Transient Peaks: ~1,200 Nm = 1,200 × 0.737562 = 885 lb-ft at the input.
  • Support:
    • Ashcroft: Implies ~500-600 Nm (369-443 lb-ft) stock limit. Ashcroft - LT230.
    • Land Rover FAQ: ~400-450 lb-ft (542-610 Nm). Land Rover FAQ.
    • Pirate 4x4: Survives ~1,750 Nm (1,290 lb-ft) R380 output in swaps. Pirate 4x4.

Summary in Both Units
  • Engine: 315 Nm (232 lb-ft).
  • R380 Capacity: ~380 Nm (280 lb-ft).
    • 1st Gear Output: 1,163 Nm (858 lb-ft), with loss: 1,105 Nm (815 lb-ft).
    • 5th Gear Output: 231 Nm (170 lb-ft), with loss: 219 Nm (162 lb-ft).
  • LT230 Capacity: ~550 Nm (406 lb-ft) continuous, ~1,200 Nm (885 lb-ft) peak.
    • 1st Low Output: 3,668 Nm (2,706 lb-ft), with loss: 3,485 Nm (2,570 lb-ft).
    • 5th High Output: 265 Nm (196 lb-ft), with loss: 252 Nm (186 lb-ft).
  • Wheel Torque:
    • 1st Low: 12,336 Nm (9,098 lb-ft), with loss: 11,719 Nm (8,645 lb-ft).
    • 5th High: 892 Nm (658 lb-ft), with loss: 848 Nm (625 lb-ft).

This covers the torque flow and ratings in both Nm and lb-ft, keeping the NAS D1’s drivetrain in focus. Let me know if you’d like a per-gear breakdown or more source hunting!
 

DiscoClay

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Mar 18, 2021
658
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Chapel Hill, North Carolina, USA
Yes, an LT230 may be a whiny bitch - but it may be not, as well.

Funny, I don't mind the wine (straight cut is your friend) but I hate slop.

That said, I see ashcroft modifies the housing to address some of the wine (and leakage), have any of you tried that? It might be a good upgrade for this ecoboost conversion:


The hole that supports the head of the intermediate pin in the LT230 casing is prone to wearing, and the pin elongates the hole so that it is out of round.
This can lead to a transfer case whine, and an oil leak.
Using our CNC lathe, we turn a stepped bush from EN24T steel. We mount the casing in our CNC mill, and machine an oversized hole on the correct centre and press the steel bush into the housing.
This will now have a longer life than the original housing, as the pin is now supported in the steel bush.
 

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p m

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That said, I see ashcroft modifies the housing to address some of the wine (and leakage), have any of you tried that?
Ashcroft may have started doing that recently, most likely, to address customer complaints of leaks through the worn-out intermediate shaft holes. I have two Ashcroft rebuilds, both weeped ever so slightly through the front opening. My friend had an Ashcroft rebuild in his ROW 110, which leaked like a sieve from the same spot.
 
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ERover82

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Ashcroft may have started doing that recently, most likely, to address customer complaints of leaks through the worn-out intermediate shaft holes. I have two Ashcroft rebuilds, both weeped ever so slightly through the front opening. My friend had an Ashcroft rebuild in his ROW 110, which leaked like a sieve from the same spot.

They've been doing it for years actually. It's a very effective solution on a common issue. However, main casings (even leaky ones) have become more difficult to find, so they now also manufacture their own.
 
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DiscoClay

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Mar 18, 2021
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They've been doing it for years actually. It's a very effective solution on a common issue. However, main casings (even leaky ones) have become more difficult to find, so they now also manufacture their own.
A similar mod helps solve power-steering box leaks: a friend of mine used to take the top plate (which is home to the upper "bushing" pocket for the sector shaft) and machine an oversized pocket and then press in a bronze bushing. He then replaces the stock lower seal with a very high pressure hydraulic cylinder seal; same for the steering input shaft seal. ... they never leak or wear out (effectively) after that. Obviously this does not apply to the internals.
 

1of40

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pineland SD

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I have never seen manual cloth seats with orange piping like that before it suits the truck! Even though there were no G4 D1's I think its a vey unique and cool truck.
 
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Av8or

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Engine is in!... well mostly. I ran out of time today to finish this up. But since my last post I had to build a couple iterations of adapters to get the shift lever installed for the transfer case. I also had to reconfigure and mess with the linkage for a while due to updated geometry. But after that was done I enlisted my dad to give me a hand lifting the Tcase back into place. After that, I had to do one more adapter plate to go from the old transmission/frame mount to the Tcase adapter.

Since that was successful, I got the engine into the engine bay! Right now the only issue is getting the transmission splines to mate up with the transfer case splines. The alternator is in the way preventing the engine from being centered, and I'm still cautiously optimistic that the alternator will still clear when it's all snugged up in place. but this weekend I will pull it off to get the transmission mated, then hopefully still have enough room to squeeze the alternator back on.

Worst case I'll have to pull the A/C compressor and put the alternator over there.

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Av8or

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That took longer than I would have liked, but on round 3, I finally got made a trasfercase frame mount adapter that worked. Now the engine is in FOR REAL. I can conclusively say the alternator will not fit, like it's close... but not nearly close enough to make it work. So I'll pull the A/C compressor and throw the alternator over there with another custom fabricated bracket, then get new belts.

The rest of the engine clearance looks like it was made for the rover, PLENTY of axle clearance and no other interference issues.

Next steps are to get my engine mounts fabricated and welded in.
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p m

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That's not a bad thing that the alternator will not fit in the engine-specific location - you don't want it there.
Ask all LR3/4 owners with alternator issues.
 

Av8or

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That's not a bad thing that the alternator will not fit in the engine-specific location - you don't want it there.
Ask all LR3/4 owners with alternator issues.
Why is that?

On the other hand, maintaining the alternator in that spot would have been completely impossible. The entire engine mount would have to come off to get the alternator into/out of that position. It's just one more bracket and new belts so not the end of the world. Then A/C will go to an electric compressor.
 
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p m

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Unfortunately the A/C compressor spot isn't any higher. It won't get oil, but water and dust will still be an issue.
True, but A/C compressor is sealed - the alternator is not.
On LR4s the alternator is like 10" from the ground, under the passenger side valve cover - so when the valve cover gasket starts to seep, the oil goes straight into the alternator, mixes with dust, and ... you go through a million oddball faults before you realize that the alternator is dead.
 
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Av8or

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Feb 14, 2025
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Im concerned that my tires would Interfere with an externally mounted steering gearbox, or would cause the steering column to interfere with my aftermarket shock towers.

Ultimately it's not that hard to move the alternator and it will make service easier in the long run.