electrical problem of the century

[clerkick]

Hi. I've been a member for awhile but I'm mostly a lurker. I've been working on this electrical problem for quite awhile now on my 96 and now i give up. I have no power to either my drivers side tail light or the tail light in the bumper but they both have working brake lights and turn signals. I also have no power to my fuel pump and my fuel gauge is dead. Did a tranny job myself over the winter and a few days after I ran it out of gas and killed my fuel pump. Have since replaced the pump and filter but now no power. What happened?

 

[pdxrovermech]

doesnt sound like a common issue but I bet any rover mechanic worth their salt would have it figured out in a couple hours. might be time to get some expert help.

 

[KyleT]

pinched or corroded ground wire back there?

isnt there a ground that goies somewhere to the roof on those?

 

[JohnB]

Just today I was pulling the fuel pump harness out for a potential customer. It plugs in on the frame under the drivers rear about the middle of the rear left wheel. It looks to also run to the taillights. I would crawl under your truck and look at that harness. Maybe unplugged, corroded or melted.

 

[flyfisher11]

.....or melted.

By chance did you or a PO remove the resonator and not put a down pipe or extended pipe on the exhaust? If it is just blowing back there I'd bet you have a melted bunch of wires.

 

[clerkick]

Thanks for the replies. I have power in and out of the inertia switch but none at the connection behind the rear driver's side tire. Where is the ground back there. I can't seem to find it. Also its funny u mentioned melted wires. I did infact have that problem but replaced them. I'll double check my crimps.

 

[JerryIndiana]

Hi Clerkick, just went though similar problem on my 96 D1, I followed the ground up inside the rear interior panels, above the rear tail lights, have to remove upper and lower panel to get to it and remove driver's rear speaker to remove upper panel. I have been going through every ground on my dog, they are everywhere. Someday I will take pics of every one and post them. Manual is too general!

 

[kennith]

By chance did you or a PO remove the resonator and not put a down pipe or extended pipe on the exhaust? If it is just blowing back there I'd bet you have a melted bunch of wires.

I have seen a harness to the pump melted for that very reason. You know who you are, if you are reading this.:rofl:

Cheers,

Kennith

 

[Roving Beetle]

If you have previously done some crimping and such I would look there first. Did you use marine grade adhesive lined heat shrink crimp connectors? Even better are the ones with low temp solder in them as well. I use them on everything as I have huge piles of them around the boatyard.

You think you have issues, look below at what I am playing with these days!! :banghead:

 

[flyfisher11]

If you have previously done some crimping and such I would look there first. Did you use marine grade adhesive lined heat shrink crimp connectors? Even better are the ones with low temp solder in them as well. I use them on everything as I have huge piles of them around the boatyard.

You think you have issues, look below at what I am playing with these days!! :banghead:

Audi/VW tdi conversion?

 

[JohnB]

Have fun working through that immobilizer.

 

[Roving Beetle]

2002 Jetta TDI into a 1995 Audi 90 CS Quattro.

And the immobilizer is easy - either swap the harness, cluster and key switch complete with full can-bus system or send the ECU out and have it deleted. Either way would work for me since I have the whole TDI donor car at my disposal.

I am having the ECU remapped for the larger turbo, injector nozzles and related anyway so that's a no-brainer. Immobilizer delete and EGR rework.

Doug