How do you go about ensuring enough juice (technical term) for extra lights, winch, radio, etc...?
Electrical
- Thread starter RBBailey
- Start date
Not sure what charging system you have at present - if its the original dynamo and positive earth then you will struggle.............However if its converted to negative earth and an alternator you could fit a higher output alternator - a bit of beefing up of the charging circuit might be in order depending on the state of the wiring harness............IRRC a Series1 Disco has a higher output especially if it has aircon and Im pretty sure it would fit.........then Id fit a secondary fuse box to run the extra stuff from.
Paul
Paul
A good deep cycle battery and the stock alternator is sufficient, a 10si alternator conversion is better and cheap too. An extra fuse panel wired directly off the battery for fused connections for CB, air compressors etc saves trying to pull too much juice through the original harness.
I fitted a GM single wire alternator to my '67 2A 2.25L and never had an issue after. Easy upgrade, fits right into the spot where the generator was with minimal fabrication and no hacked wiring.
I should have said that I do have an alternator, but the battery light glows ever so softly when I turn the headlights and anything else on. The Alternator has a single wire running to the battery, it's a fairly new wire, in good condition, but I think I may get a heavier gauge.
What is the Amps gauge really telling me? And how do I use that to diagnose a problem?
Glad to hear others have done the separate fuse box, that's what I'm planning for anything extra that I put in.
What is the Amps gauge really telling me? And how do I use that to diagnose a problem?
Glad to hear others have done the separate fuse box, that's what I'm planning for anything extra that I put in.
You should definitely not be getting the charge light with the headlamps on plus an additional accessory. I would put a meter across the battery terminals, first at off, then at idle and then at a good 1500-2000 RPM. You should see the volts go up at each step to about 14.3 to 14.5 at the higher RPMs. It sounds like you may be dealing with a voltage drop somewhere in your system.
Well, the battery gets low if the car sits for a week as well. I've not been able to figure out why.
I bought a boomerang looking bracket from someone down south about 8 years ald which allowed the alternator to be mounted up high near the top of the engine height. I then used a 10SI 110amp alternator and it all worked great. I can't recall who made the bracket but it was a simple design, about 80degree angle, and maybe 6" long on each side.
The wire from the alternator to the starter solenoid (that's the 'common' connection on the Series III) should be at least 10 gauge. Brown insulation keeps it book color-code correct. Make sure all contacts are shiny bright.
The Lucas 16ACR alternator puts out 37 amps on its best day. You can upgrade to a Lucas 18ACR (fits earlier Jags) and not change a thing, 'cept getting 45 amps.
Which isn't much, considering that the Delco 10si is rated at about 90 amps. Several times I have tried to fit one of these, but using the stock location, it fouls on something or other (motor mount, engine block) as the Delco unit is larger in diameter than the Lucas one.
Robert Davis has developed a relocation kit that moves the alternator up a bit, to keep it high(er) and dry(er) if you do a lot of fording. The Delco 10si is about as big as you can go without going to a double-pulley set-up.
Cheers
The Lucas 16ACR alternator puts out 37 amps on its best day. You can upgrade to a Lucas 18ACR (fits earlier Jags) and not change a thing, 'cept getting 45 amps.
Which isn't much, considering that the Delco 10si is rated at about 90 amps. Several times I have tried to fit one of these, but using the stock location, it fouls on something or other (motor mount, engine block) as the Delco unit is larger in diameter than the Lucas one.
Robert Davis has developed a relocation kit that moves the alternator up a bit, to keep it high(er) and dry(er) if you do a lot of fording. The Delco 10si is about as big as you can go without going to a double-pulley set-up.
Cheers
RBBailey said:
Disconnect the battery ground clamp, and fit a low wattage 12v lamp between the cable and the negative post. The brighter the glow, the bigger the drain....
Now start disconnecting things. When the light goes out, you have found the culprit. That the alternator is not "putting out" like it used to leads me to suspect that - the diodes. Diodes function like one-way 'lectrical valves, and when they fail, the battery can 'leak' down.
Yeah, I have one of those lights for testing, it glows, not strong, but it glows. I just don't have the time to go pulling bits. I would not be surprised if it were the alternator itself, as you say.
I don't know what type of bracket I have, and I will have to check the brand of alternator on there.
Pangolin is a great place.
I don't know what type of bracket I have, and I will have to check the brand of alternator on there.
Pangolin is a great place.
KevinNY said:
sweetness..I was lookin for this!! thanx Kevin, mine is in the gen. location and just didnt like it....this will be nice...