engine mounts or what?

[anthony]

my 96 d1 w109k- about midways through first gear the rover shakes or shudders a little, i read a post somewhere a while back (cant find it now) about an almost exact problem. motor mounts were brought up in the solution.. i am leaning towards motor mounts and would like to know if there is anyway to test this theory, or mabe yall could tell me what kind of symptoms yins have seen with worn motor mounts!!

thanks in advance sweeties

 

[anthony]

come on guys, somebodys motor mounts have had to go bad before! what kinds of symptoms did you have!!
pwetty pweeze

 

[scrover]

Did you inspect the motor mounts?

SC

 

[roverthen]

Anthony, when I had this problem I noticed both engine mounts where broken because of severe loss of power. Very noticeable when you are climbing an obstacle and you mostly hear your motor reved up but not alot of power. The way I really knew was by opening the hood, put the rover in drive and whithout letting go of the brakes, accelerate in small revs (be gentle). If you look at the engine from the driver seat(the intake at least) you might notice that the engine has a lot of movement. With a second person you can actually see the mounts while you rev the engine. In my case the engine had both mounts seperating about two inches when I tried this.

Abraham

 

[Apexdisco]

I'm just curious to know what's involved in replacing motor mounts?

Who's done it before?

 

[bri]

Me too, they are sitting on the bench.

 

[anthony]

ok, i did look at motor mounts before i posted and all looks well...no cracks or breaks or anything obvious. this morning i did the stop-start test mentioned above and all seems well, no jumping or anything..is there a good way to check ****** mounts as well??

 

[Trey & Melissa Burns]

Have you checked your transmission and transfer box mounts??? using the same method - torque the motor while someone is inspecting but be careful not to run the person over!

Changing motor mounts is a pain in the ass of a job.

First you have to remove the idle motor bc/ when you jack the engine up you will break the idle motor housing if you do not do this - this is located in the right rear of the intake plemtum.

Then, once the engine is jacked up unbolt the old engine mounts and remove the engine mounts and install the new ones.

You will need to jack the motor up pretty high.

 

[Pugsly]

I first realized my motor mounts were gone when my fan shroud and fan connected / self destructed.

From http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us50126.htm ...

Most mounts are designed so that separation won?t allow the engine to fall out onto the roadway. But a bad mount may cause a myriad of problems - many easily misdiagnosed.

Often, bad motor mounts allow the engine to rock and move around, causing noise and interference problems with the throttle, transmission and clutch linkages. For example, a thumping noise when the transmission is put into gear or when the vehicle is accelerating is a classic symptom of a bad mount.

Excessive engine rocking also can create exhaust leaks and rattles where the head pipe joins the exhaust manifold. Plus, the donut that seals the exhaust joint can be crushed or broken by the motions of the engine, or the head pipe or pipe flange may crack.

Cracked or broken motor mounts can be an annoying source of vibration and noise, typically a clunk or shudder when accelerating hard. A broken or separated mount may even allow an engine-driven fan to scrape the fan shroud or contact the radiator, which also contributes to annoying noise.

 

[anthony]

i am trying to rule these out or rule them the culprit of an ongoing vibration issue, started out w/vibes (better described as the whole damn vehicle shaking) @ 55 and over 70, then started getting light vibes in 1st gear also. now i am getting vibes in 2nd gear and anything over 70mph and ESPECIALLY going up big hills on interstate-the vibes are hard to explain because they are constantly changing slightly-however, a constant has been that if i am cruising @ hwy speeds and go up a hill it will begin to shudder or shake, i can shift into third and will still vibe but it changes the quality a little so i am thinking not trans. going out, also, the worst shake is when going up a hill and shifting into 4th gear from third-wham...whole car shakes. new rotoflex did not fix, u-joints seem to be fine (no play)
When car shakes i feel no loss of power. if it starts shaking on hill only thing that will make it stop is to let off gas or crest and go down the other side of the hill- this would be fine if everywhere i had to go was downhill but it seems just the opposite. I would love to be able to lay under my truck @ hwy speeds and see what the hell is going on under there. i will check transfer case and trans. mounts tomorrow and post results!

 

[Blue]

Jack the engine up very carefully and see if your mounts separate. Your mounts may look fine at a casual glance, but they may be shot. You can replace them by jacking the engine up, but it's a pain in the ass. Use your bottle jack and a regular floor jack with some wood. Just get down there and you'll figure it out. Check your tcase mounts too.

 

[Hoot]

Blue, where would you suggest to use as jacking points under the engine?

 

[pathatcher]

the shakes

Anthony
I would be curious to know what you find. My Disco I starts shaking around 65 to 70 mph but stops when I get to 80 (yeah I know too fast!).

 

[Hoot]

mine shakes a bit at around 70 or so. but it is only really noticable with a passenger in the front seat. I had just been assuming it needs a front end allignment, and front wheels balanced, and probably my preloads are off. i hadn't really thought it could be engine mounts.

i am interested in checking them out , however i am a little bit hesitant to jack my eningin up with the fllor jack and botle jack. since i have never done it, and dont know really where to put the jacks. also how high do you have to jack it up? i am jsut affraind i will jack it up wrong and really F' something up.

 

[bri]

The shop manual says nothing about the mounts. Bummer.

I want to do this, this weekend, so am very curious.

Blue, where to jack why two jacks?

Is this true about the idle motor? I have not heard that.

Brian

 

[Blue]

oil pan rail. just using the bottle jack wasn't enough for me - with both mounts unbolted, the engine will shift around a bit. It's hard to jack up straight. you'll see once you get down there and have at it.

 

[bri]

Anything else to be concerned about like the idle motor?

Or just be cautious about how and where you jack?

Don't know what an oil pan rail is, but assume that the oil pan is connected to it somehow.

Thanks Blue and everyone else.

Crap, now I need to go buy a bottle jack.

Brian

 

[Brian Friend]

vibration like that sounds like rear drive shaft u-joint, probably the rear joint.

 

[charles]

Go to a shop that has a lift. Usually a muffler shop or tire shop. Lift the truck unbolt the mounts. The shop here in San Antonio braced a pipe from the floor to the block and lowered the lift. They then pulled the old mounts out and put the new ones in $35.00. If you are going to DIY you will need 2 2x4s and use the oil pan to lift. I remember a post with a pic here long ago.

Charles

 

[Blue]

Just use your floor jack and some 2x4 action. Just go real slow & be careful. You're not trying to blow the engine up & out of the bay. All you're trying to do is give the engine a little shrug so you can slip out the old mounts and slip the new in (one side at a time). Unfortunately, it's pretty hard because of the studs on the mounts. Cleaning all the oil & grease off the underpinnings will help too. My bottle jack was sliding all over the place - try to jack off of the axle housing or front diff housing. Major PIA.