Engine rebuild fail!

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number9

Well-known member
Nov 21, 2015
196
0
Coastal Georgia
It doesn't need to be perfect. Just do the 15 ft-lbs and the 90+90. There is no need to check it once you are done.
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That's a perfect description of TTY bolt installation. And such a comforting thought there's no procedure to check it after TTY completed and no re-torque/check after a suggested period of time.

A study was done and it works most of the time.
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Thank goodness there are alternative methods, fasteners and torque wrenches available.
......
 
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discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,735
1,026
Northern Illinois
discowolf said:
I almost did that when I was in there. It seemed to make sense, but the machinist said raw dog it. I decided to take his advice because he had some really crazy race engine builds going on and my garage just has 1000 bicycles and antique single cylinder air cooled builds.
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He's right again. The black stuff on that gasket is sealer.
 
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discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,735
1,026
Northern Illinois
discowolf said:
Does anyone know the final torque value? I'd like to check it when I'm done. What is X? 15ftlb+90°+90°=Xftlbs. Or am I over thinking it?
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On a torque to yield bolt the bolt stretches. When you get close to the last 90 degrees being reached You will feel the torque actually decrease. On the intake they wan't you to let the gasket sit for a while between the first stage of torque and the second. They say the gasket will bed in during that time and then the last torque is pretty ballistic for a bolt of it's size. Most guys replace those bolts also. Early on there was a few redesigns of that bolt and some markings on the head. I think a triangle stamp is the newest design.nd there was a time around 2010 there was some really soft bolts in the system that would snap off before they reached torque. Doubt you will run into any of those.
 
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discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,735
1,026
Northern Illinois
number9 said:
That's a perfect description of TTY bolt installation. And such a comforting thought there's no procedure to check it after TTY completed and no re-torque/check after a suggested period of time.

Thank goodness there are alternative methods, fasteners and torque wrenches available.
......
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What alternative meathod, fasteners are available. Hope you don't mean studs.
 
jymmiejamz

jymmiejamz

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2004
6,008
361
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Los Angeles, Ca
discostew said:
On a torque to yield bolt the bolt stretches. When you get close to the last 90 degrees being reached You will feel the torque actually decrease. On the intake they wan't you to let the gasket sit for a while between the first stage of torque and the second. They say the gasket will bed in during that time and then the last torque is pretty ballistic for a bolt of it's size. Most guys replace those bolts also. Early on there was a few redesigns of that bolt and some markings on the head. I think a triangle stamp is the newest design.nd there was a time around 2010 there was some really soft bolts in the system that would snap off before they reached torque. Doubt you will run into any of those.
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I only replace the ones marked with an 'S' and remember it by S = shitty.
 
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discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,735
1,026
Northern Illinois
Search back thru all the threads and you will find countless posts about studs gone wrong. I've only seen one engine with studs that wasn't having issues because of them and I'm sure that one let go by now.
 
jymmiejamz

jymmiejamz

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Dec 5, 2004
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Los Angeles, Ca
discowolf

discowolf

Active member
Aug 18, 2011
38
0
Richland WA / Petrolia CA
jymmiejamz said:
Or people do head gaskets and don't clean out the bolt holes which leads to the block cracking since liquids don't compress.
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I stuffed a rag in each hole to clean them, but didn't blow them out. Should I pull it apart and do that? I was hoping I can just re-torque the bolts and pull the plugs and crank it to blow any coolant out. Can I get away with that or do you guys suggest pulling it apart and starting fresh?
 
jymmiejamz

jymmiejamz

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2004
6,008
361
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Los Angeles, Ca
I'm talking about the head bolt holes, not the spark plug holes. If there is any question on if you did something right or wrong, I would just start again and follow the manual. I think there is a video of how to do the whole job.
 
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discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,735
1,026
Northern Illinois
discowolf said:
I watched the videos and have the rave and another manual. I did not "blow" out the head bolt holes, only used a thin piece of rag to clean them out.
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I like to take a blow gun with a long tube on it and sink it all the way to the bottom of the hole. Then blast it out. The reason for that is you wont be able to compress a liquid and the torque will pull the threads out of the hole. I find that there is almost always a few holes that get coolant in them. The good thing is I doubt you could have done any damage at 15 lb ft.
 
jymmiejamz

jymmiejamz

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2004
6,008
361
35
Los Angeles, Ca
discowolf said:
I watched the videos and have the rave and another manual. I did not "blow" out the head bolt holes, only used a thin piece of rag to clean them out.
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It doesn't have to be perfectly clean, but you don't want a pool of coolant, oil, or cleaning solvent in there because it will not compress.
 
p m

p m

Administrator
Staff member
Apr 19, 2004
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La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
discostew said:
I like to take a blow gun with a long tube on it and sink it all the way to the bottom of the hole. Then blast it out.
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Fuck, how much crap did I get in my face doing that...
But... either that, or some really long Q-tips. The bolt holes should not have a pool of liquid at the bottom.
 
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