Engine Removal

[wrldky]

2002 Discovery SD with SAI
I am attempting this and was wondering if anyone who has done this before could answer a couple questions.
Step 30 in the workshop manual says "models with automatic gearbox" Remove 4 bolts securing torque converter to drive plate. I could not find the bolts but I have an automatic.
Also how do you access and what tools do you use to access the top bolts that secure the engine to the gear box? They are to closeto the firewall to get a wrench in there.

Thank you in advance!!!

 

[PhD_Polymath]

For the torque convertor bolts, there is an access hole on the passenger side of the engine. Between the starter and the engine block, above the oil pan where it widens, facing the transmission, you should be able to see it. For me, I shine a flashlight back through the hole, spin the engine a bit by the crankshaft bolt with a breaker bar, then look again until I see the bolt. Then, I take a long extension with the correct size socket (forgot, 13mm?), and remove the bolt. Spin the engine to the next bolt, etc. Be sure to get all 4 bolts out. You will hate life if you pull the torque converter because you forgot one or more. Don't ask how I know. As for the engine block to transmission bell housing bolts on the top, remove the two engine mounts, then lower the engine as low as you can, keeping an eye on stuff to make sure nothing is getting crushed. This will free up the space necessary. When reassembling, the torque converter to flex plate bolts can be difficult to install. Specifically, I was scared shitless about the prospect of dropping one of the bolts and getting it stuck after bolting the engine to the transmission. So, I took a piece of masking tape and lined the socket with it. That way the bolts stays put until you can get it threaded in.

 

[Trailhead4x4]

Getting TC bolts in and out is SO much easier with the pan off, but many people don't want to spend the time removing it.

 

[wrldky]

Are the torque converter bolts on all trucks. I saw that maybe it was just the GEMS engine? I could see in the hole I just didn't see any bolts. I can take the oil pan off. It has a new seal but I have a feeling it's going to have to come off anyway.

 

[p m]

Are the torque converter bolts on all trucks. I saw that maybe it was just the GEMS engine? I could see in the hole I just didn't see any bolts. I can take the oil pan off. It has a new seal but I have a feeling it's going to have to come off anyway.

How do you think torque converters are connected to the crankshafts?

 

[wrldky]

I think you are giving me more credit here. I don't know what a torque converter is but I guess i need to find the bolts. I looked thru the hole and rotated the engine and saw nothing. Next I put my fingers in there and felt and I still didn't feel any bolt heads. Advice?

 

[rovercanus]

I think you are giving me more credit here. I don't know what a torque converter is but I guess i need to find the bolts. I looked thru the hole and rotated the engine and saw nothing. Next I put my fingers in there and felt and I still didn't feel any bolt heads. Advice?

Yes. Have someone else pull your engine.

 

[Mike26]

remove the rubber plugs that allow you to see the bolts that connect the flywheel to the torque converter. have someone slowly turn the motor as you look through the access hole and wait for the bolts to appear. Unbolt them all and your good to yank it out. Be sure to support the transmission when your disconnecting the motor, and don't remove the torque converter. Its so much easier to put all back together when you don't remove the torque converter. good luck

 

[SMLE]

Yes. Have someone else pull your engine.

Ha!!

 

[discostew]

Are the torque converter bolts on all trucks. I saw that maybe it was just the GEMS engine? I could see in the hole I just didn't see any bolts. I can take the oil pan off. It has a new seal but I have a feeling it's going to have to come off anyway.

You going to need to rotate the engine to line each of the 4 bolts up with that hole.

 

[wrldky]

I was thinking I didn't need to be smart or knowledgeable I have you guys and Google. That engine is coming out tonight come hell or high water. Thanks for the help and the sarcasm. It will help with the book I am writing; "Management and Motivation by Sarcasm"

 

[p m]

LOL.
Seriously, you need invest in the workshop manual. Mostly, reading time.
http://www.landroverresource.com/docs/D2_Workshop_Manual.pdf

 

[squirt]

That engine is coming out tonight come hell or high water.

Sarcasm aside, please don't use this approach. I've been there myself, and it only leads to more problems and disappointment.

Since this seems to be a learning process for you, take your time and make sure you have confidence that things are being done right. The last thing you want is a broken fuel line, damaged wiring harness, etc, because you're trying to get the job done quickly.

 

[ERover82]

Sawzall. Deal with the carnage later.

 

[ERover82]

You'll have fun with the upper bell housing bolts..

 

[wrldky]

Tonight! Tonight come hell or high water this engine is coming out!! How far can you lower the engine while it is still attached to the bell housing?

 

[Mike26]

Tonight! Tonight come hell or high water this engine is coming out!! How far can you lower the engine while it is still attached to the bell housing?

remove the motor mounts and you can lower it to the motor mount brackets. leave the actual bracket on there to keep it from going any further.

 

[kcabpilot]

I used a ratcheting half inch breaker bar on the crank nut and was able to turn the engine and watch through the hole for the bolts. Nobody has mentioned the obvious but it is of course much easier to rotate the crank if all of the spark plugs are out. The upper bell housing bolts are a challenge to get to even with the engine lowered as far as it will go, breaking them loose is the tough part, much easier to put back in. I used a long extension with a pneumatic impact on a couple of them to get them loose.

I was able to pull my 4.0 and swap in a 4.6 working completely alone. Took me about a week though :ack:

 

[Levi]

Thread hijack but I figured the op might find it useful and since this thread was already going I figured I wouldn't start another. Hope you don't mind wrldky.

I'm about just about ready to pull my motor and step 97 in rave says to put a suitable wooden block in bell housing access hole to retain the torque converter. What is a "suitable" block of wood? Does it just press up against the tc or in front of it, etc?

Also, does the transfer box tie bar really need to come out? I'm struggling with that nut and skipped that step as well as the top transmission pipe.

Thanks!

 

[squirt]

Any old wooden block, usually a small chunk of 2x4 does the job. Then a couple of pieces of wire in an X configuration to hold things together.