Evil Black Rifle

SGaynor

Well-known member
Dec 6, 2006
7,148
162
52
Bristol, TN
So, I'm I'm moving to Texas next month and turning 40 in May. I figure I'm about due for my mid-life crisis.

However, I like my wife (and she's hot), and I really don't have the urge to go buy a Corvette. Add to that I haven't been shooting much the past few years, and I miss it, I've decided I'm going to build an Evil Black Rifle. Mostly for target, but I may take up 3-gun; I'm getting older, no more basketball for me, so...

Here's my current thinking on what I'm wanting. I'm new to the AR game, so I would like your input on my choices: are they good, what should I change and why, and where can I save $ and apply to other areas of the build. My goal is to have a MOA or better shooter; I'm not that good off-hand, but for the money I'm going to spend on this, I want a rifle that can shoot.

Upper:
This is probably the heart of my build. I want a gas-piston set up (feel free to tell me why I don't). I'm in lust with the LWRC upper that EE is selling. I want the 16" for a little better accuracy, and because I may want to add a suppressor in a year or so (did I mention this was a mid-life crisis thing). I've also looked at the Sabre Defense piston upper and like that too.

Although I'm planning on building my rifle, I see that S&W has a piston gun for about $1100, which is a tough price to beat considering the piston uppers above are $1800-$2000 alone.

Lower:
My understanding is a lower is a lower, so I'm looking at inexpensive forged lowers to save $. I'm liking the Spikes or AGP lowers.

For the internals, I was planning on buying a reasonably priced kit. However, I want a good trigger. I'm very interested in the Giselle triggers. I was looking at the mid range ones (~$180) vs the high end National Match. Since I've never fired a two stage trigger, any comments about pro/con of two stage would be appreciated.

Question: Is it more cost effective/simpler to buy a lower parts kit and toss the trigger group, or buy the pins/springs/etc. separately since I want a high end trigger?

Any comments on the Plum Crazy complete lower for ~$100? It's all composite - stock, lower, trigger, etc. Tough price to beat for a complete lower, but do I want a aluminum lower vs composite (sounds like the Glock arguments).

Stock:
Collapsible, multi-position stock. I like the Magpul ACS or the Vltor. I would like something with a good cheek weld, but don't know if I want to spend $250 on the stock.

Sights/Optics:
I like the flip-up Troy Industries iron sights with HK-style front post (see the bottom of the EE page for pics). These would be used for backup.

I want optics, and here I could use some input.

I was looking at Burris's 1X-4X lens. I'm not sure if I want a scope that long, or if it would be good for close targets (< 30 yrds). Burris has a package with the 4X scope with a red dot sight mounted above. That seems more Tacti-Kool than practical to me.

I found Valdada's IOR Tactical Rifle Scope. I kind of like this. It seems like a good combination of what I'm looking for. Something that can be used for quick acquisition on close targets, but also allows for longer range shooting.

Any other optics suggestions? I want to stay in the $600-800 range on optics.

That's pretty much it other than sling (Magpul) - no lights, lasers, vertical grip, gernade launcher, etc. So, comments? :flamethrower:
 

Nomar

Well-known member
Apr 23, 2004
6,078
13
Virginia
From what I've been told(by a member here ;) ), LWRC is the shit.

But couldn't you do better on price from a gun retailer?
 

DiscoS2

Well-known member
SGaynor said:
...Lower:
My understanding is a lower is a lower, so I'm looking at inexpensive forged lowers to save $....

LOL... man, you're all over the place on this one.
With the amount of money you're willing to lay out for this project, you're gonna squeeze pennies on the lower?
Ya, they're basically all the same, but since you're going full-tilt, suck it up and drop the extra $100 on a billet lower.
For accuracy, I'd go with a non-chromed match barrel, and 18' for the longer gas system.


Re: the suppressor... I'd skip the can, unless I was going to get one that could also be used on a .22 (upper or separate rifle). A 9mm upper with suppressor would also be a good combo.
Seriously, a .22 bolt-action is the way to go. True silence is hard to beat, especially if you want to, from your bedroom window, whack the raccoon that's on your garbage can in your gated neighborhood at 3AM .
 

quick128

Well-known member
Jul 21, 2008
1,378
1
Waynesboro VA
Forget the details about the gun. It's not important. Buy a basic A3 16" rifle as cheap as you can find. Build for less than $600 or buy off a dealer shelf for $700. Then buy 15 to 20 gov't contractor 30 round mags, a decent scope, and a flip up rear sight. Then take all the money you have left and buy spam cans of ammo from sportmans guide or cheaper than dirt. I've come to realize that the end is near and you have to be prepared.
 

Ho

1
Staff member
quick128 said:
Forget the details about the gun. It's not important. Buy a basic A3 16" rifle as cheap as you can find. Build for less than $600 or buy off a dealer shelf for $700. Then buy 15 to 20 gov't contractor 30 round mags, a decent scope, and a flip up rear sight. Then take all the money you have left and buy spam cans of ammo from sportmans guide or cheaper than dirt. I've come to realize that the end is near and you have to be prepared.


The man wants to buy the AR instead a Corvette. Let him get a nice rifle.
 

Tugela

Well-known member
May 21, 2007
4,766
566
Seattle
DiscoS2 said:
For accuracy, I'd go with a non-chromed match barrel, and 18' for the longer gas system.

I don't know jack about rifles, but am I totally off base for thinking that eighteen feet is really long for a gun barrel? Except maybe for the cannons on a battleship?
 

dirtyjim

Well-known member
Apr 28, 2004
244
0
drunk, in a bar(alvin,texas)
Tugela said:
I don't know jack about rifles, but am I totally off base for thinking that eighteen feet is really long for a gun barrel? Except maybe for the cannons on a battleship?
he meant 18" barrel.
i'm running an 18" barrel on mine and i realy like it, i've had 16's & 20's on other rifles & i don't think i'll go under 18 anymore
 

knewsom

Well-known member
Jul 10, 2008
5,262
0
La Mancha, CA
Ballah06 said:
Longer barrels provide for more accuracy, especially at longer ranges. It also makes it easier to zero the gun as well.

See, I've heard that barrels longer than 19" are pointless, and can actually reduce accuracy because of barrel flex.
 

SGaynor

Well-known member
Dec 6, 2006
7,148
162
52
Bristol, TN
Thanks for the comments. After reading them, and re-reading what I wrote, I think I was heading in the wrong direction. I was trying to build a quality gun, but cheap bastard parts of it, making a Frankenrifle that really isn't that great.

So in rethinking this, I should either make a CB build, or build something of high(er) quality - not both. Since I want a quality gun, I started rethinking the above (improved stock, billet/machined lower, etc.).

What I ended up with (at first pass) was a collection of quality parts that cost more then just buying a gun (Barrett REC7, LMT MRP, LWRC M6A3) outright. So I guess, I'm now in the market for a higher end piston AR (although the S&W is attractive).

Keep the comments coming...



Ho - That's for the lead on that scope. Very nice.
 

knewsom

Well-known member
Jul 10, 2008
5,262
0
La Mancha, CA
In terms of CB build vs QR, I'm in the CB camp myself - just seems like diminishing returns when you get into the high-end stuff, unless you're a competition shooter.
 

flyfisher11

Well-known member
May 25, 2005
8,676
2
61
Wolf Laurel NC
Ballah06 said:
Longer barrels provide for more accuracy, especially at longer ranges. It also makes it easier to zero the gun as well.

Good reason to consider some of the new bull pups. You get both a shorter weapon with the same longer barrel.