Extended Wheel Stud for D1 and RRC - Sources?

[StangGT5]

I recently installed Method alloy wheels on my RRC (same hubs as a D1), and am slightly concerned that the studs aren't long enough for the more typical 60 degree lug nuts these use. The hub and lugnut seat areas on the ProComps I pulled off are not as thick as the Methods, so I think it's better to upgrade the studs sooner rather than later.

Are the extended wheel studs for Wolf wheels from Rovers North the only option? Wheel studs are not an area where one should go cheap, but $13.50 a stud is a little goofy. If that's all there is then so be it, but I figured I'd ask before going that route.

Extended Wheel Stud PLB337 | Rovers North - Land Rover Parts and Accessories Since 1979

50mm extended heavy duty wheel stud. This extended wheel stud is typically used when fitting Wolf wheels, which are thicker than standard Land Rover steel and alloy wheels. Priced individually. Fits These Vehicles: Model: Notes: Defender 90 Defender 90 NAS Defender...

www.roversnorth.com

 

[LRDONE]

As a rule of thumb from the machinist handbook, 1.5 times the diameter of the bolt or stud is all you need.

 

[StangGT5]

As a rule of thumb from the machinist handbook, 1.5 times the diameter of the bolt or stud is all you need.

Right. According to my caliper gauge I'm around 1.0 (16MM stud and 15-16MM of thread from bottom of cone contact to end of stud) if I'm lucky. I do get 9.5 revolutions of the nut, which is somewhat comforting. I installed an open nut for visualization after measurement. The Pro Comps I took off had a little more engagement, but I wanted gold wheels.

 

[p m]

Right. According to my caliper gauge I'm around 1.0 (16MM stud and 15-16MM of thread from bottom of cone contact to end of stud) if I'm lucky. I do get 9.5 revolutions of the nut, which is somewhat comforting. I installed an open nut for visualization after measurement. The Pro Comps I took off had a little more engagement, but I wanted gold wheels.

Well, you made your bed.
On the saving-grace side, the wheel studs are much beefier than common-for-the-industry, so even with shallower nut engagement you could have the same or more clamping force.
FWIW, Wolf wheels are indeed thick, but I have no issues running standard studs/nuts. I _may_ have the top thread or half of it of the nut not engaging, but that's about it.

 

[StangGT5]

I found some 60mm studs at Rimmer Bros for $8/stud and ordered a couple extra just in case. We'll see how this goes.

I don't think it's dangerous as-is, but it's something I can do over a weekend with wheel bearings and seals.

 

[StangGT5]

To close the loop here I installed the Rimmer Bros extended studs. Of course I ended up doing new wheel bearings, swivel seals, brake rotors, pads, front track rod, and tie rods because I'm all about "while you're in there" stuff.

I am WAY happier with the thread engagement on the Method wheels now.

Now if only Lucky 8 would send me the right tie rods I can get this thing back on the trails. Their Lemforder "kit" ostensibly came with three RH thread and one LH thread. Not sure why they wouldn't send two of both, but the LH thread box had been taped and also contained a RH thread tie rod...so I guess I'll end up with two spare RH thread ties rods when I'm done haha. They also sent me non-vented "front" brake rotors, which I've never seen on a RRC, so I went to Rockauto for the brake parts after that frustration.

You vs. the stud she told you not to worry about.


The "LH" box of shame.

 

[p m]

The standard TRE kits always come with 3 RH and 1 LH joints. One of the steering links has a left-threaded connection built in, so it uses two right-hand-threaded joints.

 

[StangGT5]

The standard TRE kits always come with 3 RH and 1 LH joints. One of the steering links has a left-threaded connection built in, so it uses two right-hand-threaded joints.

Weird. Both my 92s require 2 LH and 2 RH thread tie rods like every live axle Jeep/truck I've ever worked on.

I just replaced the tie rods on the stock 92 so I figured I'd do the same to this beefed up one while I'm in there. Unfortunately it's become a USPS waiting game. I have a 91 parts truck that has the funky steering arm with the built-in tie rod, so maybe that's what the assymetrical kits are for? I'd think with two rods of the same pitch turning the link would push them in the same versus opposite directions. In any case, I'm much more of a D2/P38 guy than D1/RRC.

 

[p m]

Weird. Both my 92s require 2 LH and 2 RH thread tie rods like every live axle Jeep/truck I've ever worked on.

Different drag links on earlier Classics.