Factory amp bypass

[fishEH]

So I've got stereo whine that changes with revs. Used truck came with a Kenwood head unit and who knows what speakers, maybe stock. Stock sub was blown and is disconnected. I don't really care about that, just want the whining to stop.

The whining comes and goes. Hit a bump and the whine kicks in. Hit another and it goes away. Turn the radio off and it is always gone when turned back on, at least momentarily.

Is there any way I can bypass the amp without pulling the head unit?

 

[Butch]

Do you have a lose ground?

 

[fishEH]

IDK. I read a bunch of threads and the general consensus seemed to be bypassing the amp was the key to stopping whine.

 

[K-rover]

I installed an aftermarket radio in my D2, but am using the factory amp. I too have engine whine. I tried re grounding the radio but its still there. So Im also leaning towards the amp.
Unfortunately the only solution I see is to use internal amp which requires running speaker wires from the head unit to each speaker.

 

[ArmyRover]

You could try adding a additional ground at the amp.

 

[Butch]

I have more of a hum in mine after I went with an aftermarket deck and bypassed the amp. You can only notice it when it initially comes on and as you switch radio stations. Mine is due to the not having a solid ground which is on my list of things to fix.

 

[MM3846]

Bypass without removing the head unit? No. But you should pop it out (takes 15 seconds) and then bypass the amp (takes an hour at most).

 

[D Chapman]

Try pulling the fuse out of the amp to see if it stops.

Typically this is due to a bad ground.

I did a write up years ago on how to bypass the amp. Can't find it now.

 

[smrover1]

I just lost front speakers and a day or two later lost the back now radio turns on but nothing?

 

[fishEH]

Bypass without removing the head unit? No. But you should pop it out (takes 15 seconds) and then bypass the amp (takes an hour at most).

15 seconds? IDK, I'm a virgin when it comes to stereo stuff.

Try pulling the fuse out of the amp to see if it stops.

Typically this is due to a bad ground.

I did a write up years ago on how to bypass the amp. Can't find it now.

I'll check the fuse.

 

[MM3846]

15 seconds? IDK, I'm a virgin when it comes to stereo stuff.

you need the keys. you stick them in the sides, push the stereo out.

 

[K-rover]

Taking it out is the easy part. Getting back in is another story.. The back of my head unit has a shit ton of wires and pre outs. Getting all that in the tiny space behind the dash is a PIA!

 

[MM3846]

Taking it out is the easy part. Getting back in is another story.. The back of my head unit has a shit ton of wires and pre outs. Getting all that in the tiny space behind the dash is a PIA!

Oh ya. I have the wiring for 3 gauges behind there too. It helps if you get a deck without a CD player.. they are a lot shorter.

 

[Levi]

If this is your 98 do you have the amp under the driver's seat? I had the same problem but it would go away if I wiggled the wires in the front. I unwrapped the wires (factory wrap/tape was very loose) to have a look and didn't find anything but after taping them back up tight the problem went away.

 

[fishEH]

Ok. This is on my 96. The whining noise if definitely emanating from the passenger side kick-panel area.
I don't have the special radio tools, can I use file folder hangers or something?
I don't want to replace the radio, just kill the noise. My '95 will get a non-CD head unit and other mediocre stereo components.

 

[MM3846]

you need to run the speaker wires from the head unit down to the factory amp (in the passenger kick panel, follow the noise), and splice into the outputs of the amp to the speakers. There are wiring diagrams somewhere.

The amp in the 95 will probably be under the passenger or driver seat. Mine was in the passenger, RAVE said driver but it probably just didn't transfer from UK to NAS models.

 

[D Chapman]

Your amp is in the kick panel on the pass side. About a foot up. Not much bigger than a pack of cigarettes. The fuse is on the bottom. Has a wiring harness entering the top and one exiting the bottom.

If you have an aftermarket radio it's possible that the amp has already been bypassed. If not, they installed the new unit the hard way.

 

[fishEH]

Thanks guys. I'll check it out. Sounds simple enough provided I can get the radio out.
The '95 is getting gutted and I don't plan on recycling the factory components(except for the sub).

 

[robertf]

So I've got stereo whine that changes with revs. Used truck came with a Kenwood head unit and who knows what speakers, maybe stock. Stock sub was blown and is disconnected. I don't really care about that, just want the whining to stop.

The whining comes and goes. Hit a bump and the whine kicks in. Hit another and it goes away. Turn the radio off and it is always gone when turned back on, at least momentarily.

Is there any way I can bypass the amp without pulling the head unit?

You don't have to remove the headunit, the amp is on the kick panel for gems trucks and under the passenger seat for 14cux. That is where the bypass is done

Earlier harnesses had a dedicated ground per channel, later ones shared a ground. I eliminated most of the wine on my 97 by using an earlier plug and adding rca ends and hooking it up to a jbl amp instead of the tiny factory one

That was after removing the junk Sony hu the po installed and putting a factory one back in place

 

[SGaynor]

Whinning is usually a bad ground.

Just run some 14 ga wire from the the radio/amp (splice in) to the battery ground.