Fan eating shroud...

[mcrw33]

Sorry for the re-post but I posted this as a follow-up to my original thread and I think it's getting lost in there. Not looking at changing to electric or the 'random' fan failures.
I have a specific cause for the fan failing in the first place, just not sure what to root problem is...

I think I may be on to why the fan grenaded in the first place and about to have a repeat performance.
I was washing the mud out of the rad and pulled the shroud to get it good and clean.
The inside of the shroud is wearing down. Somehow the fan is coming in contact with it.
Right now there is nice grove in inside of the shroud and the little 'lip' on the outside of the fan is worn down.
I can't see how it's contacting. I've pushed down on the shroud and it won't flex enough to touch the fan. The rad moves back and forth a bit but again not enough to cause the shroud the touch the fan.
The two engine mounts in the engine bay look OK and when I goose the gas the engine doesn't move.
This is sitting flat on the driveway but on the trail I'm sure something is twisting enough to get the fan rubbing on the inside of the shroud.
Any ideas where to look next. Transmission mounts?
Just how much movement is OK on the rad? It will move back 1/4 inch and the same forward. Unless body flex is allowing the rad to move more on the trail.
Like to get this figured out before I buy a new fan again. Maybe I should just replace the fan with every oil change?

Thanks,
Mark

 

[gmookher]

The two engine mounts in the engine bay look OK and when I goose the gas the engine doesn't move.
Mark

Are you sure

 

[mcrw33]

From what I can see the rubber looks intact. Bolts in place.
I rev the engine from the throttle at the intake plenum so I can watch the engine and it doesn't move much.
I thought this would show a bad engine mount past visual inspection?
Is there a better way?
How about transmission mounts by visual inspection?
Somehow the shroud (and rad) has to be moving down an inch or so or the engine has to be tipping up for the fan to cut into the under side of the shroud.

Trying to learn some of the tricks or what to look for.

Mark.

 

[landrovered]

Motor mounts...

Visual doesn't mean much, jack the engine up a little and see if they are really intact. Ask me how I know this.

 

[D Chapman]

It's the mounts

 

[davidz]

listen to the voices, signs point to a motor mount, probably left/drivers side, sit in truck with hood open, so you can see... put it in gear with your foot on brake, and power brake....... ya know other foot on gas pedal, then report on how far it actually jumps up...... left to its own demise other mounts will follow suit...
or just jack it up like landrovered sugested,

 

[MUSKYMAN]

the fan hits the shroud when the trans mounts shrink down and get skinny, the motor mounts act as the fulcrum and lift the top of the fan into the shroud.

replace all the mounts and it should fix it.

 

[mcrw33]

Probably best to replace all at the same time then? Two engine, two transmission. That's them all?
Are there upgraded versions or are the OEM ones the best choice.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[D Chapman]

OEM, Genuine, aftermarket, blah blah blah.....they all break.

Scorpion made a nice mount, but they were 80.00ea. Not sure where to even get them now.

 

[landrovered]

Trail repair for motor mount:

Take out busted mount. Cut metal disk off of each end of the hockey puck preserving hockey puck. With hammer knock the threaded bolt toward where the hockey puck was. Rounded head will come right out. Heat a piece of metal or long bolt until glowing. Burn hole in hockey puck for new bolt.

Replace motor mount using a new grade 8 bolt and nyloc nut sandwiching the hockey puck with the stock metal disks, tighten till good and snug.

 

[flyfisher11]

Probably best to replace all at the same time then? Two engine, two transmission. That's them all?
Are there upgraded versions or are the OEM ones the best choice.

Thanks,
Mark

I have the QTs I got from Justin Lucky8. They are very strong and I recommend them but they are a bit pricey.

Cheers,

Mike

 

[flyfisher11]

Trail repair for motor mount:

Take out busted mount. Cut metal disk off of each end of the hockey puck preserving hockey puck. With hammer knock the threaded bolt toward where the hockey puck was. Rounded head will come right out. Heat a piece of metal or long bolt until glowing. Burn hole in hockey puck for new bolt.

Replace motor mount using a new grade 8 bolt and nyloc nut sandwiching the hockey puck with the stock metal disks, tighten till good and snug.

Scott, I believe the OP is in a DII. Whole different animal.

 

[landrovered]

Scott, I believe the OP is in a DII. Whole different animal.

Thanks for letting me know, well at least the D1/RRC/90/110 trail repair will be he for folks that use the search function in the future.

Cheers

 

[JohnB]

I broke my fan once because the water pump had so much slop that at higher RPM's the fan would touch something.

Seems like you already replaced your water pump, but my pump was only 6 months old when this happened.

 

[Mongo]

you can get oem motor mounts for a 1/3 of what the Qt cost...I just think they are overkill for a daily driver D2...

 

[mcrw33]

Here is a loaded question...
At what point would it not be considered a daily driver. I'm starting to build my D2 up and run a trail pretty much every weekend. Since I have to replace anyway is now the time to upgrade?
When would the stock mounts be likely to fail? Just curious, I might never cross that line. At least not for a while

Mark

 

[rovercanus]

Here is a loaded question...
At what point would it not be considered a daily driver. I'm starting to build my D2 up and run a trail pretty much every weekend. Since I have to replace anyway is now the time to upgrade?
When would the stock mounts be likely to fail? Just curious, I might never cross that line. At least not for a while

Mark

If you run trails once a week it's time to upgrade.

 

[Mongo]

I dunno know...I've gone thru 2 set's of OEM in 70k of hard abuse and even with replacing the T-case mounts at the same time I'm still ahead...

and if you listen to some of the guy's your gonna gain horsepower and increased performance...

 

[mcrw33]

Just checked out all four mounts. The engine mounts look pretty new. The rubber has no cracks and doesn't look dry.
The transmission and t-case mount are a bit more difficult to see but they look ok. Not as good as the front but no cracks.
Had the front on a ramp and measured the distance between from the rocker cover to the top of the firewall. Did the same with it off the ramps and it was exactly the same. Would I see and difference if the rear mounts were shot? I thought of this based on Muskmans comments.
Then I tried Davidz suggestion and in reverse gear the engine hardly moved and the body rocked. In drive different story, I could see more movement in the engine not as much body roll.
So is that pointing to the driverside mount?
After reading how much of a PITA to get them out I want to be pretty sure before I launch into this.

 

[gmookher]

No Doubt get the QT mounts Justin sells for a d2...even if your tranny mounts fail, theres no way to fuck it up the way the OE ones fail. I have some good stock mounts if anyone needs a set...