Fix your bent D1, RRC, Defender trailing arms.

[cdansan]

I can fix your bent trailing arms. $150 plus freight.
Compared to TerraFirma which are 3/16 .188" wall and over 200$
I use your factory trailing arms ends and sleeve with 1/4" wall DOM tubing.
They can be bent or straight trailing arms. I have a tube bender if you would like a specific degree of bend.
After welding the ends on, they are drilled thru and 3 1/2" grade 8 bolts welded in to lock them in.
I have been using the first set I made for 6 years.
Turn around is 2 days. I am in Vermont.
Contact me if there are questions or for shipping directions.

Dan

 

[Mongo]

Nice...one thing, use a grade 5 bolt instead of grade 8, those are more brittle and can crack or fracture (especially after welding, it effects the heat treat) when you bash shit

 

[cdansan]

Will do.

 

[ERover82]

This is false?
http://www.industrialchassisinc.com/?p=622

 

[ezzzzzzz]

I'd forego the bolt all together. Drilling through creates a weak point that will not be strengthened by the external weld. Predrilling the tube and rosebudding those holes once assembled would create a stronger joint.

 

[Mongo]

My point is based on the changing the "heat treat" on the bolt when welding it...Stock bolts range from grade 3 to grade 5, I don't think I ever seen a grade 8 stock bolt, but I could be wrong. Proper torque with a bolt is the most important thing...

 

[cdansan]

I don't know how the welding and subsequent heat sinking while cooling will change the heat treating.
I do know that is how you take the temper out of things to reduce the hardness.
Starting with a softer fastener will result in less change in hardness.

 

[Mongo]

Correct and grade 5 bolts are not heat teated like a grade 8. I was told by a couple different welders to use a non-hardened bolt in this scenario