Front Crank Pulley and Seal Q

[Lutzgaterr]

Several years ago, I opted to have my front crank seal replaced by a local shop. During the procedure, I got a call explaining they could replace the seal, however the crank pulley was deeply grooved and the seal would fail once again in the future. The price for the pulley alone was $275. Well I said no thanks, go the cheap-route please and now she is leaking again and as I started to think about the price tag to do the job correctly, meaning new crank-pulley this time. I was astounded when I looked at the prices for an Crankshaft Pulley, anywhere from $50-75.

So, this leads me to believe I must have heard this wrong or he is making his margin on parts.

Here is the question: Does that scenario sound right about the pulley being deeply grooved and causing premature seal failure?

For the life of me, I cannot find a picture that depicts how the pulley fits to the crankshaft and this pulley groove that destroys the front crank-seal. I have the Rave, but that does not help illustrate this particular arrangment.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[nismopowered]

The crank has a nose that sticks out lets say 1.5". Just to give you an idea these are not the true sizes, Lets say the crank is 1.5" in dia and the timeing cover has a 2" hole in it.
The back side of the pulley will have a shaft with a 1.5" hole in it that slides over the nose of the crank. lets say the dia of the pulley shaft is 1.75". The seal fills the gap between the timeing cover and the pulley shaft. It is possible for the seal to wear a groove in the crank pulley as it spins in the seal.
hope this helps

 

[billb]

Don't replace the pulley if you don't have to - put a speedy-sleeve over the pulley seal surface and you'll be good to go for many miles. Installing the sleeve takes all of 30 seconds once the pulley is off. Of course, replace the worn oil seal too


Bill

 

[Lutzgaterr]

Thanks fellas, I appreciate the illustration, makes sense now. I will start looking for local provider of speedy-sleeves and go that route. As I understand it, the sleeves will outlast a new pulley surface anyway, so might as well sleeve-it.
Awesome and thanks again.

 

[davidz]

Hey Bruce,
you can vary depth of the seal in the cover, so that you can find a spot that doesnt let the seal sit in the groove, did it on mine and it works.
"IF" you find the redi sleeve, man post that number!!!!!! thats a good piece of information right there.

 

[Lutzgaterr]

Called Chicago Rawhide, Speedy-Sleeve folks, they could not cross ref against the seal ERR6490. Next is to remove pulley and give dimensions and see if they have a part number.
Since I opted to use a shop on the first go-around, I am not sure why he did not counter-sink the seal... probably the pully surface may have been grooved too wide to use that approach.
Once I get a part number, if I do, I will post it here.

Oh and BTW folks, I was looking at the wrong part number of the Crankshaft Pulley-Damper... It is damn expensive... Best price so far, beleive it or not is $230 from dealer.
I may need to give Nathan a buzz and see what he can do in case the Speedy-Sleeve option is a no-go.

 

[billb]

Speedi-sleeve is certainly available - did it on mine a few months ago. Sorry - don't know the p/n though

Bill

 

[D Chapman]

I think Dan calls it a t "repair sleeve". $12.00
http://www.aluminumv8.com/enginecomponents.htm

 

[rovercanus]

When I pully my crank it leaks too!
I'm sorry guys, just another useless post.

 

[Lutzgaterr]

Thanks Mr. Chapman, great site, I will call them.

 

[Lutzgaterr]

Just an FYI for those who have the crankshaft seal leak issue and want to fix by using a speedie sleeve from Chicago Rawhide.
Part number for my 4.0 is #99192.
Davidz has already installed his several weeks ago and he is happy with no leaks.

 

[Lutzgaterr]

Well, I have several days of driving with the speedi-sleeve installed and I have no leaks. What a fast and efficient way to fix that darn leak. My crankpulley slid off with no problems. Besides the struggle of arranging the bottom chain pipe-wrench around the pulley while breaking the crankshaft nut from above leaning over the radiator, the rest was fast.
Stupid mechanic wanted do the same thing but instead of sleeving the surface, he was going to resurface for almost the same as a new pulley.
Sleeve was around $43, new seal $9, so $52 and I am dry!

 

[Cadaver]

I need to do this pronto. Im leaking oil something fierce. How did you get the sleeve on the crank pulley? Just tap it on with a hammer?

 

[davidz]

there is a lil piece of metal like a cap that comes with the sleeve for instalation. you only drive the sleeve on far enough to cover the grooves, you do not drive it all the way to the pulley like some sleeves.

 

[Jaime]

An easy way to break the bolt holding the pulley is to put a 24 " breaker bar with a 15/16 socket on the bolt. Position the handle on the right side underneath the frame. Tie it if necessary to keep it from moving. Then flick the starter switch. DO NOT START THE ENGINE!! It will be enough to break the bolt.

I disconnected the MAF so it woudn't easily start.

To tighten it, I held the pulley with a strap wrench and used loctite