Fuse for shifting out of P

[scottagnew101]

My fuse has been going out, I don't know what its called but I know its on the far right top side and its the fuse that lets you shift out of Park. There was a lot of 20 amp fuses on top of it and it was the last 20 amp fuse before it went to 15 (I think). So this is why I am asking because I blew it again, had to replace it so I put in a 25 (yes bigger I know) so I am wondering HOW MUCH BIGGER? just 5 amps or 10 amps? Oh discoweb gods please help me!!!

 

[scottagnew101]

oh I think I'm remembering where it was a BLUE 20 amp fuse, so now having bumped it up only 5 to 25 amps is that bad?

 

[listerdiesel]

If the fuse is blowing, putting a bigger one in is just going to make things worse.

The fuse is there for a reason, it doesn't normally carry 20 amps continuously, there may be a surge for a few milliseconds, but most of those fuses are carrying less than 5A, probably even less than that, so if it is blowing, sort the problem out, don't go and burn the car out for the sake of a bit of wire chafing somewhere.

Have a look round the XYZ switch on the gearbox and the wiring to it for a start.

Peter

 

[cosmic88]

The worst thing you could possibly do is add a bigger fuse to a circuit when it routinely blows. As Peter said the fuses are rated to an amperage for a tad bit higher than the circuit is designed to carry, momentarily. When you replace the fuse with one of a higher amperage you are simply allowing that circuit to carry a much higher current and the wires themselves will become the fuse. You will be in far worse shape at that point.

You very simply have a short somewhere in the circuit for the shift lock solenoid. bare wire touching the vehicle somewhere or bare wires crossed or connector came loose... get a test light and probe those wires with the help of the rave diagrams.

it could be as simple as reinstalling a piece of equipment or some new hardware and pinching the wires...

 

[K-rover]

Its fuse #21 I think its supposed to be a 15.

When I installed my CDL I accidentally shorted the wires and blew the fuse.

 

[scottagnew101]

Have a look round the XYZ switch on the gearbox and the wiring to it for a start.

Peter

Forgive me, whats the XYZ switch? Were is it located?


and see it had gone from every time I cut the Rover off I would need to have a fuse; So my mechanic had replaced a part & been driving it for days on days... no problem.... I get it and didn't really have an issue, but today!

 

[pdxrovermech]

without looking at RAVE, any chance this is tied into the brake light circuit? maybe water in the tail lights or a poorly wired trailer harness?

 

[cosmic88]

absolutely. I'm no D2 guy so I'm not all that familiar with the specifics of the D2 schematics but the closing of the brake circuit is what tells a few ecu's what to do and what state the circuit is in. first thing to check is when pressing the brakes do you have the lamps all light up? does Cruise control work? if yes to those items then your dealing with a short in the wiring to the solenoid... Are you able to shift through all gears without depressing the brake pedal? IF yes then the solenoid may very well be stuck in the energized position and overloading the circuit (not sure about that last one but it is a guess...)

 

[scottagnew101]

So Ive got LED's installed in almost all of my tail lights (but the 3rd, middle) for some reason they will not work in the middle! So call me crazy but do y'all think this could be blowing the fuse? Saving me on energy to were it blows the fuse?

 

[cosmic88]

So Ive got LED's installed in almost all of my tail lights (but the 3rd, middle) for some reason they will not work in the middle! So call me crazy but do y'all think this could be blowing the fuse? Saving me on energy to were it blows the fuse?

That is good information to reveal... after nine posts.

It would be best (next time) if you have replaced components to let the "group" know about such modifications when asking your initial question. You replaced all your signaling lamps and then the fuse for that circuit keeps blowing. go back and check your work. a wire is most likely grounding or it is miswired.

Also, I'm trying to figure out what you mean by this... "Saving me on energy to were it blows the fuse". Are you asking if the far lower amp draw of LED's is blowing the fuse? fuses blow when they are subjected to higher than rated current... i.e. too much heat from all those cwazy little electrons being forced through a small conductor, quickly.

Do you know someone who is close to you and is good with this type of stuff... altered wiring is giving you some trouble and it may be in your best interest to have someone with a more solid understanding do this work for you.

 

[LRNationals]

you may also want to check your trailer plug wiring. there is a dead short somewhere as mentioned above. we had a customer with this excat problem on a p38. turnd out to be that the wiring for the trailer plug had rubbed through exposing a bare wire. there must have been 50 blown fuses on the floor of his truck. lol, the dealer quoted him 3500 for a new bcem which of coarse wasent the problem at all!

 

[scottagnew101]

That is good information to reveal... after nine posts.

It would be best (next time) if you have replaced components to let the "group" know about such modifications when asking your initial question. You replaced all your signaling lamps and then the fuse for that circuit keeps blowing. go back and check your work. a wire is most likely grounding or it is miswired.

Also, I'm trying to figure out what you mean by this... "Saving me on energy to were it blows the fuse". Are you asking if the far lower amp draw of LED's is blowing the fuse? fuses blow when they are subjected to higher than rated current... i.e. too much heat from all those cwazy little electrons being forced through a small conductor, quickly.

Do you know someone who is close to you and is good with this type of stuff... altered wiring is giving you some trouble and it may be in your best interest to have someone with a more solid understanding do this work for you.

yeah, but 4-6 months (could have been 1 year! I had a horrible accident that has wiped my memory out!) of having it run just fine with them in.

yeah it's at a great mechanic, Autoworks unlimited! Just right down the street.