The RAVE says to lubricate the seal lip, but does not specify the ID or the OD... has anyone had success doing one or the other?
Are those special tools really necessary? The seal guide is $50 and the driving piece is over $250. I was able to match a 3" PVC pipe cap cover as a tool to drive the seal.Inboard. I put a light coating of grease on the sealing lip. Just a little. Your going to need the tool that drives the seal to the correct depth. There is also a second tool that protects the seal as you push it into position before driving it home with the first tool I mentioned.
While your doing the rear main seal there is a couple other things you need to do back there. The cam bore plug at the back of the block leaks. I get them out with a slide hammer with a screw at the working end of it. A couple hits inward to start the screw then screw it into the plug and pull it out. Rover calls for a green thread locker for a seal, but I use that aviation gasket maker too.
Then of course the cross seals.
I know the RAVE does not show the depth because they assume you have the special tool. I did inspect my existing seal and it looked to be just slightly subflush, basically just off the inital taper with the ID lip/edge of the seal scrubbing the back of the crank. Is that correct?The seal stays stationary. If your sure your driving the seal to the correct depth great. But the depth is critical.
I’ve never really checked that close. I just hit the thing till it sounds like it’s pretty well driven home and move on. But your way sounds more excitingI know the RAVE does not show the depth because they assume you have the special tool. I did inspect my existing seal and it looked to be just slightly subflush, badically just off the inital taper with the ID lip/edge of the seal scrubbing the back of the crank. Is that correct?