getting hot

pastr

Member
Apr 3, 2005
18
0
53
Israel
I have 04' V8 4.6L
The workshop manual says 320K Km replace all coolant system.
All my coolant system is fine but as a prevention I replaced radiator, all hoses and thermostat, all land rover Genuine.
If until then the temp. was normal, around 88-92°c, now it's move between 92-93°c at drive and 100-102°c at standing.
The movement from 92 to 102 and opposite is quick (I think so).
On the instrument panel I can see the analog gauge is a little bit higher then before.
The digital reading is from my Ultra-Gauge.
I'm pretty much at a loss!
 

outono

Well-known member
Sep 26, 2020
163
85
Orange, CA
When you replaced your radiator and hoses, how well did you bleed the system? My guess is air in the system.

The only other item that might cause problems is your water pump, but I suspect you'd see some leaking, hear some noises, or hit higher temps if it was truly faulty.
 

twosevens

Active member
Jun 13, 2010
41
0
Portland, OR
You might want to also replace your water pump and viscus fan clutch. Replacing those two things will complete a full cooling system overhaul. What was your method to bleed the system when refilling? It sounds like you have air trapped that needs to be "burped" out. Also, unrelated to heat, but did you use distilled water to 50/50 mix with your coolant?
 

terryjm1

Well-known member
Jan 23, 2011
1,503
384
I recently replaced my water pump, radiator, thermostat, fan clutch, and all hoses in my D1. The water pump was just a stock rebuilt one. It cools amazingly well now. i know it sounds silly but I jacked up the passenger front a little bit to get the coolant expansion tank higher than everything else and let it idle. Then, I let it cool all the way down (still on the jack) in the shop. I restarted it the next day and let it get hot again. Maybe it didn’t help, but I have no issues with cooling and expect I have no trapped air. I first started using this “technique” a long time ago with a TR7. They are notorious for trapped air in the cooling system and blowing head gaskets as result. Never had an issue with them as long as I used that process.
 

jastutte

Well-known member
Nov 10, 2009
469
76
I recently replaced my water pump, radiator, thermostat, fan clutch, and all hoses in my D1. The water pump was just a stock rebuilt one. It cools amazingly well now. i know it sounds silly but I jacked up the passenger front a little bit to get the coolant expansion tank higher than everything else and let it idle. Then, I let it cool all the way down (still on the jack) in the shop. I restarted it the next day and let it get hot again. Maybe it didn’t help, but I have no issues with cooling and expect I have no trapped air. I first started using this “technique” a long time ago with a TR7. They are notorious for trapped air in the cooling system and blowing head gaskets as result. Never had an issue with them as long as I used that process.
i always used that method with my '96 D1. never had any air bubbles. easiest vehicle to bleed i've owned.
 

robbyb20

Well-known member
Oct 2, 2019
229
34
Seattle
I recently replaced my water pump, radiator, thermostat, fan clutch, and all hoses in my D1. The water pump was just a stock rebuilt one. It cools amazingly well now. i know it sounds silly but I jacked up the passenger front a little bit to get the coolant expansion tank higher than everything else and let it idle. Then, I let it cool all the way down (still on the jack) in the shop. I restarted it the next day and let it get hot again. Maybe it didn’t help, but I have no issues with cooling and expect I have no trapped air. I first started using this “technique” a long time ago with a TR7. They are notorious for trapped air in the cooling system and blowing head gaskets as result. Never had an issue with them as long as I used that process.
instead of jacking up mine, i just unbolt it from the chassis and raise it up above everything else. Takes 1 min top to unbolt.