Greg Davis bumper - DONE!

barshnik

Well-known member
Finished it up today, and glad it is finally done. Mine has a slight bow (upward in the middle) but it fit fine, so no need to bother Greg about an exchange. Like any other project, there are a number of things I would do differently the second time around (email me if you like if you are preparing to order one).

I like the way it looks - the heavy ass-end look is gone. The tank skid is Larry's, it fit perfectly as well. Got to do something about the muffler tomorrow.


I guess sliders are next.
John F
LV, NV
 

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Greg Davis

Well-known member
Glad everything worked out for you John. What would you have done differently on the bumper, or were you referring to your project as a whole?

Greg
 

barshnik

Well-known member
d2dave said:
niiiiice. where did you get your qt diff guards? how much?

Bought them many years ago from Nathan - don't know if he is still around the board. I really don't remember how much they were, but I recall thinking that they were quite reasonable back then - maybe around $90 ea. Only the rear guard has seen action - a quick look shows that it definately saved a whole lot of money as well as a very long walk for 4 people. The skid properties of the design really came in handy.

John F
LV, NV
 

barshnik

Well-known member
Greg Davis said:
Glad everything worked out for you John. What would you have done differently on the bumper, or were you referring to your project as a whole?

Greg

1) I would have spent the extra money to have it shipped with the fender sliders pre-welded. I had to call in a favor from a friend to weld them, now I owe him big time.

2) I would have taken a closer look before cutting the fenders, I think I could have had a fit with less gap (remember, the truck was rear-ended and the right rear frame member had to be 'adjusted' at a frame alignment shop, so all bets are off on how it was done.)

3) Now that I think about it, forget #2, I'm perfectly OK with it, it's not a show car afterall.

4) I should have taken the extra step to fabricate spacer bars for the fit of the bumper to the bumper brackets, 1/8" would have been fine - again, probably an issue with the way it came out from the frame alignment shop. Although I took a hammer to the corners of the metal strip that runs across the back of the D2, the bumper rests on that strip most of the way across (which I didn't notice till final fitment), so there is a slight gap between one of the bumper mounts and the bumper - but I'm not taking it off again for a little thing like that. Again, this could have been easily fixed by either bending the full length of the the stip down, or fabricating spacers.

5) In my case, I had enough gap below the bumper to accomodate the little tabs on the quarter panel trim pieces, so I could have cut the fenders below the plastic screw insert (and provided a little more stability for those flimsy trim pieces) rather than cutting above it and losing it.

Other comments: Semi-gloss black Rust-Oleum looks good - I used 1 ea. 15oz. can of primer and 2 ea. 15 oz. cans of paint with a little paint left over for touchup.

The hitch pin wouldn't fit though the hitch hole, I had to ream it out with a 5/8 bit, nearly breaking my wrist when the bit caught, and dinged the bumper paint a little too. I swore at you once. Oh well.

Fender well / slider support flaps - The middle bolt of the three rests exaclty on the seam on both sides, so could not be used. Two bolts on each side seemed like plenty good enough though.

Although only I (or anyone reading this) would notice, the bow in the bumper measures just over 1/4", so either too much welding heat or not enough jig support was used in fabrication. I had to hog out a lot of metal from the bumper mount holes, requireing putting on / taking off the bumper 4 times before I could get all 4 bolts started. But then, I'm not the handiest body guy around.

I swore at you twice while trying to remove the damned adhesive from the clear tape used to wrap the shipping label on - damn, that was a lot of tape - and noticed after priming that I missed a big piece of clear tape with the wire brush when prepping.

The bumper could have been fabricated 1/4" longer - the plastic trim pieces extend out about an eighth of an inch beyond the sides of the bumper on either side, so they are maybe a little vulnerable.

Really, though, it all turned out well. I'm very happy with your product, and would recommend it to anyone looking for a svelt rear bumper for their D2. And, I appreciate the work spent in designing and fabricating it.

John F
LV, NV
 

KevinNY

Well-known member
I ran Ma Bell in Mass. yesterday in my D2, w/o my GD bumper my rear quaters would be destroyed. That bumper has saved me many times.
 

barshnik

Well-known member
Sin39 said:
where are the turn signals?

I thought you'd never ask. I built in an ultra high power LED into each plastic trim piece. There is a 1/2" hole with an amber plastic lens epoxied into the trim, with the LED assembly and current resistor mounted inside. Almost completely invisible until they turn on! You might be able to see a small dot on the trim piece in the photo attachment - that is it.

John F
LV, NV
 

barshnik

Well-known member
<<The bumper could have been fabricated 1/4" longer - the plastic trim pieces extend out about an eighth of an inch beyond the sides of the bumper on either side, so they are maybe a little vulnerable.
>>

I retract this statement. Now that I look at it in daylight, it is beautiful, and wouldn't change a thing.

John F
LV, NV
 

crown14

Well-known member
You should convert to the '03-'04 taillamps with the turn signals in them. Turn signals should be nice and visible even when they are not illuminated so that people know where to look. Leave the hidden LED stuff for the minitruckers.
Then again, you probably dont care if you get rearended, youve got a massive GD bumper back there.
 

traveltoad

Well-known member
barshnik said:
I thought you'd never ask. I built in an ultra high power LED into each plastic trim piece. There is a 1/2" hole with an amber plastic lens epoxied into the trim, with the LED assembly and current resistor mounted inside. Almost completely invisible until they turn on! You might be able to see a small dot on the trim piece in the photo attachment - that is it.

John F
LV, NV

Where did you get the LED?
 

crown14

Well-known member
From how top secret and classified it sounds, probably FBI surplus. Next he will have blue lazer limb risers and neon plasma backup lights.
 

barshnik

Well-known member
crown14 said:
You should convert to the '03-'04 taillamps with the turn signals in them. Turn signals should be nice and visible even when they are not illuminated so that people know where to look. Leave the hidden LED stuff for the minitruckers.
Then again, you probably dont care if you get rearended, youve got a massive GD bumper back there.

I've got the Drawtite 3-2 converter on order to change the existing uptop brake to brake/turn. I had a couple of LED's left over from a minimum order to convert a few of my flashlights, so thought I'd put them to use.

No, I don't want to get rearended - the truck only gets used for offroad or pulling our small camper which has its own tail lights / indicaters. Its an '01 with 26k miles. My wife got rearended sitting at a stoplight 3 blocks from home getting fueled up for a camping trip by an 'impaired' driver. It had to visit a frame alingnment shop, so good contact will bend the wimpy bumper mounts as well as the frame regardless of how stout the bumper is - maybe more damage will be done.

Besides, everyone is too busy talking on their cell phone to use turn signals in this town anyway.

John F
LV, NV
 
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