Hawaii: Big Island / Oahu

Mike_Rupp

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Mar 26, 2004
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Mercer Island, WA
My family is headed to Hawaii again soon. Are there any things on the big island or Oahu that must be done? We spent a few days on Oahu a while back, so we've already visited the Arizona.
 

umbertob

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Apr 26, 2007
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Altadena, CA
On the Big Island, drive to the top of Mauna Kea in the afternoon and stay until it's dark (bundle up because it gets cold in a hurry after the sun sets.) The sunset, cloudscape and stargazing from up there are all pretty spectacular, and you'll feel like you are in a science fiction movie surrounded by all those giant observatories that come alive as the skies get dark. A 4x4 is recommended - or required? Can't remember for sure - as the dirt road gets very steep near the summit.
 
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knewsom

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Jul 10, 2008
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La Mancha, CA
x2 on Volcano national park. Did an 8 mile hike in to an isolated white-sand beach named halape. Just coconut trees, a composting toilet, blue water, and lava fields about as far as the eye can see. Pretty epic spot. Also of interest there is the brackish pool, part fresh part salt water, nice to get the salt off you, and evade the very territorial crayfish who will chase you around the pool.

Also check out Waipio valley, pretty scenic and remote, though there are more tourists than there used to be. Still amazing tho.

Some of the most fun I had was frolicking with the naked hippies and baking on the black sand beach at kehena. Pretty epic. Best snorkeling I've ever seen is not too far from there at Kapoho bay.

If you really want to get off the beaten path, ask some hippies about "the green lake".
 

Mike_Rupp

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Mar 26, 2004
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Mercer Island, WA
I wasn't able to get a 4x4 on the big island, so I'll have to assess things once I'm there. I did get a 4dr Jeep on Oahu.

Naked Hippies? LOL Sounds like Maui and Kauai. They seem to be everywhere.
 

jhmover

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Apr 23, 2004
5,571
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California
Mike_Rupp said:
I wasn't able to get a 4x4 on the big island, so I'll have to assess things once I'm there. I did get a 4dr Jeep on Oahu.

Naked Hippies? LOL Sounds like Maui and Kauai. They seem to be everywhere.

It's a secret OWS vacation spot.
 

adriatic04

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Mar 22, 2007
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cleveland, oh
just got back from Oahu, I cant find my other thread that I updated before when I came back from another island. Anyhow, in the event someone finds this later.

Tita's Grill on the north shore is awesome. The drive to the north shore is a bitch, expect 1.5 hrs if you catch the slightest bit of traffic and if traveling from/around waikiki. The beer is horrible, waikiki beach sucks, not that I am a big beach guy but the general area is just like being in Vegas.

Couple cool spots I found outside of Tita's Grill. Pint and Jigger, cool hamburger/craft beer place, about the best taps around. The fact they have Sculpin on tap shows their passion. Another place you have to get clams, Uncle Bo's, awesome seafood apps.

Driving is like any other city. Actually besides the weather, it is an enormous tourist trap and not all that great. There is an ABC convenient store about every 100 feet, if that tells you anything.
 

Mike_Rupp

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Mar 26, 2004
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Mercer Island, WA
The garlic shrimp at Titas Grill was one of the best meals I've had in years.

Waikiki Beach blows. Oahu is such a beautiful place, but you only get a glimpse of it at Waikiki Beach.

We rented a house on the beach on the north shore for about the same price as a decent hotel room on Waikiki beach. No tourists to deal with. It was fantastic.
 

pinkytoe69

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Jan 14, 2012
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minnesota
I was born 'n raised on Maui, so I have some biases...

Oahu, in general, is an overbuilt urbanized shithole. Going there to experience Hawaii is like going to downtown Atlanta to experience what the deep south is like. The only reasons people from the other islands go there are sports, employment, lower prices (Cars), or to get a taste of an actual city. The one positive thing it does have is an actual nightlife.

The Big Island however is awesome. It is the only island where you can actually take a road trip of sorts and it has like 5 different climate zones.

Careful of going to the summits at night though. As mentioned, the outer islands dont have much to do when the sun goes down. I was going to shortcut back to Kona from Hilo once by going over rather than around. However my cousin advised against this as "kids" will go up there to "hangout". Such groups are not the friendliest bunch to some doofuses in a rental car.
 

p m

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I beg to differ. For someone who's never been to Hawaii, Oahu is a great first island to visit. Even Waikiki - the beach is great for someone not exposed to big surf but willing to learn. Diamond Head is close by, the channels are great to rent a canoe or kayak, and the purple neon signs are up for [single] adventurous types after sunset.

As for a house rental - Kailua is great in nearly every respect.
 

pinkytoe69

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Jan 14, 2012
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minnesota
I beg to differ. For someone who's never been to Hawaii, Oahu is a great first island to visit.

I guess it depends on what you are looking for.

If you want a capitalism-inspired, pre-packaged, mainland-stereotype version of Hawaii, then by all means go to Oahu.

Now, dont get me wrong, tourism is the biggest industry so all islands will have semblances of that. The difference is that Oahu is the only one whos population seems to celebrate and encourage that version of the state.

Even Waikiki - the beach is great for someone not exposed to big surf but willing to learn. Diamond Head is close by, the channels are great to rent a canoe or kayak

Pretty much every island has this available (The big island less so because its so "new"...very few beaches considering its size) and with far less aggravation than required to hit up waikiki.

Most of the surf is generated by winter storms of some sort, so you get bigger swells from the north in the winter, and from the south (though less frequently) in the summer (where it is winter in the southern hemisphere). The opposite side of the island will usually be pretty flat.
 

Mike_Rupp

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Mar 26, 2004
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Mercer Island, WA
Pinky toe, the same could be said about any place that is frequented by tourists. Take Venice as an example. If you go to the main square and walk in the main loop that's in the guidebooks you see one Venice. But do some actual exploring off of the beaten path and there is a completely different Venice.

Waikiki Beach and the rest of Honolulu are so different from the rest of Oahu. When you get up to the north shore, if you didn't know any better you'd think you were on Kauai. I'm curious: have you ever been outside of Honolulu?

Regardless, any recommendations for Maui since you grew up there? I'm headed there soon.
 

pinkytoe69

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Jan 14, 2012
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minnesota
Yeah, Ive been around other parts of the island a handful of times, but most times Ive stayed predominantly in the city.

Youre right that the north shore is much more in line with the rest of the state. And there are some killer sights to see in the mountain areas. I guess Im just soured by the whole "Los Angeles lite" vibe that I get from that island.

R.e. what to do on Maui...what kinds of stuff do you like to do and see? Are you outdoorsy?
 
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Mike_Rupp

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Mar 26, 2004
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Mercer Island, WA
I've got my two kids aged 6 & 9. We usually do short hikes together. We hiked a few miles of the Kalalau trail on Kauai last year. In general, we like to explore and see as much as we can. We aren't the type to sit around on a beach for more than a day out of a ten day vacation.

The last time we were in Maui, we did the standard things like going up to the top of Haleakala and the road to Hana. I'm just trying to find a few things that aren't the typical routine tourist things. This time I'm planning on driving past Hana and going around the whole way.
 

pinkytoe69

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Alrighty, interrogation time:

What time of year are you going, what town are you staying and how many days?

What did you do on the way to and while in Hana the last time?

And yes, if youve never done it the backside is cool...just miles of sparsely touched mountain and coastline. Dont worry about your vehicle. Theyve paved a few more miles of the road and even the rough stuff isnt that bad barring a rainstorm. I did it this past summer in a Sentra.

Did you check out the south side at all?
 

pinkytoe69

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Jan 14, 2012
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minnesota
Also, I dont know what you did last time at haleakala, but...

- cloudy day is no good cause then all you see are the tops of a bunch of clouds. On a clear day you are the king of all that lays before you :)
- sunset is way better than sunrise
- There are lots of nice hikes there, including going down into the crater
- I worked at a telescope for UH one summer in college on the 4-midnight shift taking timelapse photos of stars. When it is clear, the night sky is very impressive up there. Ive never seen stars like that. The milky way is an actual band across the sky. Its a little creepy in a "no one can hear you scream" kinda way though.
 
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Mike_Rupp

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Mar 26, 2004
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Mercer Island, WA
Going to Paia in Feb for 8 or 9 days. Can't remember exactly.

On the way last time, we listened to the audio tape and stopped a few times to check out some pools, etc. We had lunch in Hana and then did the seven pools. That's about it. We had a 9 month old at the time. LOL We did sunrise at Haleakala and I hiked with my kid on my back.

We should be able to be a little more adventurous since my kids are a little older and are used to going on hikes with me here.

As far as the south side, I never made it past hana. I did drive south on Makena Rd to the end with the lava fields.
 

pinkytoe69

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Jan 14, 2012
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minnesota
Going to Paia in Feb for 8 or 9 days.

Nice! Love that side of the island...I grew up down the road in haiku.

Not sure where you are staying, but you can walk/hike from paia bay to baldwin beach. The little beaches in between could be a nice spot for your kids to play in the water if they arent used to waves. In february though the north shore could be bumpin.

On the way last time, we listened to the audio tape and stopped a few times to check out some pools, etc. We had lunch in Hana and then did the seven pools. That's about it.

Ah ok. Twin falls, etc. are nice to see once, but if you arent gonna jump them there isnt a huge reason to go back. I cant remember the first time I jumped twin falls, but 9 sounds young? I will say that venus pool is pretty cool and a fun place for the 9 year old cause it is very deep and has jumps of all sizes, but I believe the landowners have made parking on the side of the road unfavorable thus requiring a bit of a walk.

Bamboo forest might be neat for your boys to walk through. Very crouching tiger hidden dragon. If you are feeling adventurous, you can start hiking up the stream there. Just bring your keys in a ziplock bag and some water as you will get to a point where there is no choice but to swim. I think its about 30-40 yards? Right past that is a giant cliff face with a pool at the bottom you can swim in.

Now that i think about it though, there is a 10 ft or so rope climb about halfway through that might be too much for the 6 year old.

Red sand beach is a great beach for kids to play and snorkel in. The problem is the path is getting worse and worse. I took my 6 year old daughter down there in August, but its not the safest thing to do.

Koki beach just past hana is fun cause its shallow for quite a ways out. Just be careful of the currents if there are sizeable waves.

I dont know if you did the 3.5 mile hike up at 7 sacreds, but the waterfall at the top is impressive.

Try to start the backside (i.e. past 7 sacreds) by about 4 pm at the latest so you can stop off at any spot you want to explore without being pressed for sunlight. There arent alot of "rules" for the back...if you see something interesting, stop and check it out. There are some pull-offs overlooking makena that are nice spots to see the sunset. If you are already past that, sun yat sen park is a good spot to see it as well.

We did sunrise at Haleakala and I hiked with my kid on my back.

Like I said, sunrise is a bit overrated. Its like, the sky starts getting brighter, then the sun peeks, then its up...I woke up at 3:30am for that? :p

If youre there for 9 days you might as well make the trek this time for sunset. Go a little early to do some of the hikes. If you go into the crater you can truthfully tell the boys that its what hiking on Mars is like. Then stay for a little afterwards to see the stars.

Poli Poli in Kula also has some good hikes.

As far as the south side, I never made it past hana. I did drive south on Makena Rd to the end with the lava fields.

You can hike down the path in the lava fields at the end of makena (la perouse bay). There are some areas on the cliff side that have neat little pools. I warn you that nasty fishermen will use some parts of those as a toilet so step carefully.

You basically count on Kihei/Wailea/Makena side for 2 things - sunny weather and beaches with small waves and crystal clear water.


Sorry, I gotta go to bed now, but if you have any questions just ask!
 

p m

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If you want a capitalism-inspired, pre-packaged, mainland-stereotype version of Hawaii, then by all means go to Oahu.
On a few short trips to Oahu that was what I felt.
Then I spent a month and a half working there, and found a lot of other things that I liked.
Then I went to Kauai for a tourist trip and loved it.
Then I went to Kauai for work and hated it.

Time for the big island.
 

thequickervicar

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Aug 12, 2010
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Lancaster, PA
On the Big Island, drive to the top of Mauna Kea in the afternoon and stay until it's dark (bundle up because it gets cold in a hurry after the sun sets.) The sunset, cloudscape and stargazing from up there are all pretty spectacular, and you'll feel like you are in a science fiction movie surrounded by all those giant observatories that come alive as the skies get dark. A 4x4 is recommended - or required? Can't remember for sure - as the dirt road gets very steep near the summit.

^This. They did allow us to the summit in our rented Corolla. They just frowned & said we were on our own if anything happened. And it DOES get cold there!