Head Gasket Change / Observations

[jmoore]

I have a 99D2 with 98K, 2"OME Lift, 265/75/16's on Steel Wheels.

Over the past few months, I've had a mysterious coolant leak, weak performance and poor fuel consumption (10MPG) I figured knowing the rate of HG failures on Rover Engines and those symptoms it was time for a HG replacement. Yesterday I got the heads off, but was suprised to see no evidence of HG failure. No steamed cleaned pistons or no obvious problems with the gaskets themselves. Actually, the engine and heads looked pretty good. I've been using Mobil 1 since 20K miles and Techtron FI cleaner with every oil change. I was suprised to see that the valley and rockers had a deep purple color... what's that from? Odd.

The job went pretty well, except that I broke two 16mm sockets getting the old head bolts off and the fact I had to stand on a stool to get into the engine bay of my lifted truck despite being 6'3"! I bought new head bolts and sure hope it's easier to torque them down that take them out.

I'm still going to get the heads checked out and have a valve job done, but I'm suprised there wasn't more evidence of HG failure. I sure hope I didn't do this job for nothing! But like I said the symptoms sure did seem like that was the problem. Any other areas to consider for coolant loss? Thoughts?

 

[sven]

Dont use a 16mm on the head bolts. Its SAE, 5/8 I think.

Yeah the most important thing when doing this job is a valve job. Not doing this step would be a total waste IMHO.

You could have been losing coolant and the end of the heads where the cooling passage is closest to the edge. They usually leak externally here.

 

[jmoore]

Dont use a 16mm on the head bolts. Its SAE, 5/8 I think.

Yeah the most important thing when doing this job is a valve job. Not doing this step would be a total waste IMHO.

You could have been losing coolant and the end of the heads where the cooling passage is closest to the edge. They usually leak externally here.

When I broke my 16mm, I switched to a 5/8. Seemed to work about the same and most importantly got the job done!

Yeah, it would be a waste to not to the valve job... agreed.

 

[landrovered]

I don't see how you could go wrong doing a valve job. It just ensures that the valve train is operating at peak efficiency.

 

[Dallas]

The color may be the additive package in the oil, but only in that area! strange. Have the heads checked for cracks if your that far into the job. Hope you can find the source of your leak.

 

[jmoore]

Guys,

Yesterday when I dropped my heads off at the machine shop, the machinist told me the purple color was common in aluminum engines and is caused by oil stains.

 

[sven]

I wouldnt worry about the varnish stains. How was the sludge? Was there any under the valve covers/rockers?

 

[jmoore]

I wouldnt worry about the varnish stains. How was the sludge? Was there any under the valve covers/rockers?

It wasn't bad at all. I've been using mobil 1 and premium fuel since I first got the car at 20K miles.

 

[TxDII]

John - I had the same observations when I tore mine down a couple of weeks ago (no steam cleaning or obvious damage to the gaskets). I was leaking coolant on each end of the heads.

 

[rmuller]

If you want to check your block, check out this new product; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C2EyvgxdyRY ... it has the plates and a modified water pump to allow you to do a pressure test of the coolant passages at home... costs $225 + shipping which is pretty good considering the machine shop just charged me $200 to pressure test my block... this can be done while the block is still in the truck too..

 

[barefoot]

pull the cam while you are in there and check the lobes and see if any of the lifters are concaved. you will have to drop the oil pan and pull the front cover but at 98k miles pulling the front cover and redoing the seal isn't a bad idea anyway. could save you another tear down later.

 

[jmoore]

pull the cam while you are in there and check the lobes and see if any of the lifters are concaved. you will have to drop the oil pan and pull the front cover but at 98k miles pulling the front cover and redoing the seal isn't a bad idea anyway. could save you another tear down later.

I'll look at all my lifters and lobes before I rebuilt. I did look at a few while pulling the heads, and they had normal wear. I didn't see any that were concave.

My machinist told me a few of the valves had wear and he dressed them. I don't know, I could replace the cam, lifters and rockers but at somepoint I have to realize it's a truck with 100K and while I want to keep it as long as possible, there is a limit to how much money I can keep pouring into it. Right now, we mostly use it for camping or skiing and I put an average 2000-3000 on it a year.

 

[Greg H]

John How did the rebuild go? Everything working now?
I have a similar issue. '99 DII 118,000 miles. I only drive it 2-3k/yr and I lose a small amount of coolant over time, but nothing in the oil. There is a sweet smell on start up.
I've been dreading doing the heads, but I don't want to dump $1500 into it. How difficult was it?
I'm into the "at 2-3k per year it'll last for another 20 yrs so go ahead and do it" phase.

Greg H

 

[jmoore]

John How did the rebuild go? Everything working now?
I have a similar issue. '99 DII 118,000 miles. I only drive it 2-3k/yr and I lose a small amount of coolant over time, but nothing in the oil. There is a sweet smell on start up.
I've been dreading doing the heads, but I don't want to dump $1500 into it. How difficult was it?
I'm into the "at 2-3k per year it'll last for another 20 yrs so go ahead and do it" phase.

Greg H

Greg,

It went fine. Just make sure you follow the workshop manual or advice on this board and you'll get it done. I've been wrenching for a long time and did fine that it beat me up pretty good! My truck is lifted so it was a PITA to stand on a stool to get in the engine bay and torquing the new head bolts also sucked.

But it cranked right up the first time. I did have to fix a valley gasket leak later, but it runs great. No more coolant leaks and it seems to have good power. I would definitely recommend a having a valve job if you pull the heads.

Good luck!