Head Gasket Job questions

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geoff773

Member
Oct 31, 2010
15
0
I am getting ready to put the heads back on want to make sure I am doing this right the first time. After searching past posts I will dip the bolts in oil before installing them, I will also blow out the bolt holes to make sure there isn't anything down there that will mess with the tightening procedure, and I have the shop manual that I will be following. My question is do most folks use RTV or hylomar or something to some sort of sealant on the valley, head, or water gaskets? I have read posts on this but no convincing answer, which could possibly be from reading thousands of posts since starting this job.
Thanks for any help offered and bigger one for all the info that has been shared on this forum.
2000 DII
115K miles
 
A

Atree

Member
Feb 8, 2010
15
0
Have had success with RTV or "Right Stuff" Main concern being cleanliness of mating surfaces prior to application
 
I HATE PONIES

I HATE PONIES

Well-known member
Aug 3, 2006
4,864
0
Cozy41EF said:
I put a small bead of RTV in the corners where the valley gasket goes into the grooves on the ends.
Click to expand...

X2 with just a little on the heads right past the rubber.



Looking for a Unimog! or mabey a Deuce ana Half
Click to expand...

Check out hundreddollarman on pirate.
 
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geoff773

Member
Oct 31, 2010
15
0
Any thoughts on the water pump gasket? DO most people just dry fit that one? I have read about Permatex Blue on the three bolts that go through the jacket. Thanks again

You don't see too many Unimog's in the states but there are a handful of em.
 
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tex599

Well-known member
Aug 13, 2007
286
0
FT. WORTH TX
If you use the water pump gasket put it on dry, I would just use RTV instead of the gasket. Lightly oil the head bolts and the flat surface that mates to the head with 30w. Makes it easier to torque.
 
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Iltis

New member
Nov 18, 2010
2
0
Canada
Hi, new to the site here.
in regards to oiling the head bolts, depending on the brand of bolts or studs, it will affect the torque specs of the bolt. depending if you oil it and type of oil you use or bolt it dry the actual torque and stretch can greatly vary than what your wrench is actually telling you. is there not specific reccomendations from the bolt manufacturer brand?
 
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geoff773

Member
Oct 31, 2010
15
0
I haven't looked at Rave this morning but I believe it says to oil the head bolts prior to installing them. I know the shop manual does.
 
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geoff773

Member
Oct 31, 2010
15
0
Well its all back together now and after sitting for a few months the battery was dead. Strange since I had the battery disconnected but it is dead anyway. So I jumped it and the engine is cranking but not starting. There is pressurized fuel in the rail but after pulling a plug it looks like it isn't getting past the injectors (which I didn't change or mess with). It also looks like no spark. With that I i started laughing thinking I had forgot to plug the CPS back in. No easy fix, it was plugged in. I still think it may be that sensor. Is there a way to test it without pulling it out?
 
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geoff773

Member
Oct 31, 2010
15
0
Both sides of the coil packs are plugged in but there is no spark. I read in another post last night to try pushing the unlock button on the keyFOB as the security system will cause no spark as well. I haven't actually opened the door, I have just been reaching through the window to turn the key so the system might be armed I suppose.
 
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geoff773

Member
Oct 31, 2010
15
0
Good news/bad news? The gasket job and water pump replacement went great after realizing the battery was fried and thats why it wouldn't start even with a jump. There is still a leak and not the small, "I'm marking my parking spot on the street" kind of leak! It isn't terrible but it makes my gut hurt thinking I may have a bigger problem than just the bad head gaskets. The leak appears to be coming from a bolt above the oil pan in the lower end of the block, drivers side. There are 4 of them along that side of the lower block which makes me think they are probably a machined hole for the coolant jacket through the block. Since I never touched that bolt during the head gasket work i'm nervous that it could be something worse. It was dark and getting colder by the minute last night so I didn't start messing with it. I figured i'd save that kind of fun for this afternoon. SO my gut wrenching question is if I have a cracked block is that where they typically end up leaking? I didn't see any sign of coolant in the oil or in the cylinder heads.
2000 Disco II
115K miles
 
lforgue8

lforgue8

Well-known member
Jul 23, 2006
1,216
0
MA
the bolts your talking baout are the side cap bolts for the main bearing caps and they have sealing washer behind them....your leak does it look like oil or clean brand new coolant?
 
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geoff773

Member
Oct 31, 2010
15
0
It looked like clean coolant. It was dark by the time I wrapped it up but I'm pretty sure it was still coolant and not oil.
Well then it seems like it is highly unlikely that coolant would be coming out of that bolt so maybe it is coming from somewhere a little above that bolt and I just couldn't see it last night.
 
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