Head Gasket take 2
- Thread starter knewsom
- Start date
What about differences on the intake port side? Maybe not significant enough to cause issues with the lower IM.
Let's say - I have between 165 and 175psi in all cylinders except for 1 and 3, and 115 and 130 psi - in those cylinders.
To me it means that the head gasket is blown right between these two cylinders.
What happens is the engine runs like shit.
To me it means that the head gasket is blown right between these two cylinders.
What happens is the engine runs like shit.
i am not a coolant aficionado but i have done some reading. When my heads were done it was switched to toyota red coolant. chemically it lacks a certain additive that apparently is the culprit of eating gaskets over time, something like EHA. the other plus is that if it does leak, it dries white so you can easily spot a leak 
just throwing that out there. let me know if my truck is going to self implode soon.
just throwing that out there. let me know if my truck is going to self implode soon.
.001 head deck height difference won't make any difference especially in a rover v8...
Pentofrost NF or SF?
I just did my heads less than a year ago and don't want any coolant related issues. The heads had been milled before (recall?) and now they are the minimum Land Rover recommends (.020)
I just did my heads less than a year ago and don't want any coolant related issues. The heads had been milled before (recall?) and now they are the minimum Land Rover recommends (.020)
Color isn't an accurate indicator of what's in something.
There are two important things to remember about liquid cooling an automotive engine:
1: Water used should always be distilled, with absolutely no exceptions. If you aren't doing it yourself, you must bring your own water and watch the mechanic use it.
2: The system must be flushed and refilled as completely as possible at regular intervals. Regular means a maximum of 30,000 miles between flushes.
If you do those two things, it doesn't really matter what the hell you use so long as you aren't mixing fluids.
That said, Dex-Cool is a fucking plague. You can't just drain it out at replacement intervals. No, you've got to get every last damned molecule of the old stuff out of the system before capping it and driving off, and you've got to do it every bit as often as you do with traditional products.
So, why bother? It's going to cause a problem sooner or later anyway.
There's not a lot to think about in regard to coolant. You're using water. The other shit is only in there to make sure the water behaves. Once you stray from Dex-Cool, use whatever the hell you want.
I use the "universal" stuff. I don't want the complication of choosing an appropriate fluid if I have to refill the system unexpectedly. It does everything it's supposed to do. It keeps the water from freezing, and helps prevent associated corrosion. I don't have to think about it.
Cooling an automotive engine is not a complicated affair. Not even I give it much thought, and I'm quite a persnickety bastard when it comes to the maintenance of my DII.
Cheers,
Kennith
There are two important things to remember about liquid cooling an automotive engine:
1: Water used should always be distilled, with absolutely no exceptions. If you aren't doing it yourself, you must bring your own water and watch the mechanic use it.
2: The system must be flushed and refilled as completely as possible at regular intervals. Regular means a maximum of 30,000 miles between flushes.
If you do those two things, it doesn't really matter what the hell you use so long as you aren't mixing fluids.
That said, Dex-Cool is a fucking plague. You can't just drain it out at replacement intervals. No, you've got to get every last damned molecule of the old stuff out of the system before capping it and driving off, and you've got to do it every bit as often as you do with traditional products.
So, why bother? It's going to cause a problem sooner or later anyway.
There's not a lot to think about in regard to coolant. You're using water. The other shit is only in there to make sure the water behaves. Once you stray from Dex-Cool, use whatever the hell you want.
I use the "universal" stuff. I don't want the complication of choosing an appropriate fluid if I have to refill the system unexpectedly. It does everything it's supposed to do. It keeps the water from freezing, and helps prevent associated corrosion. I don't have to think about it.
Cooling an automotive engine is not a complicated affair. Not even I give it much thought, and I'm quite a persnickety bastard when it comes to the maintenance of my DII.
Cheers,
Kennith
I guess I got lucky. The heads (now removed) from my '97 D1 are pretty flat.
After removal I put them on the mill table to check and found they rest evenly but there is just a touch of deformation at the bolt holes. One of them I was able to dress with a hand scraper. The other will only need a light skim to flatten the deformations. They are otherwise straight corner-corner.
-Mike O