Head removal

[tightgroup]

After a some deliberation on how to tackel my combined problems, I decided to go a for a small engine overall.

1) she needs rings,
2) head gasket is blown
3) Probably jumped a notch
4) Unknow milage on engine and or maintenance

Started the head removal process. Going good, but I am a bit confused as to the directives in the Haynes manual.

They talk about removing the small and big bolts on the valve train first , then do the head bolts.

If I undo the valve train bracket bolts, I run the risk of loosing some bits here and there. Since this is my first head removal , I do not see why the bracket bolts need to come undone.

I also have started on the head bolts and have a few that are refusing to budge. How much force can I use on this ?

All help is much appreciated and thanks

TG

BTW I do not have the original shop manual.

 

[dsstephens]

what vehicle/motor?

check pm

 

[tightgroup]

series 2a 1960 2.25 petrol

Thanks

TG

 

[Leslie]

FWIW: these manuals will suffice for your II, too, for the most part:

http://www.seriestrek.com/manuals.html

 

[superpowerdave]

Having just finished a head gasket job yesterday, do as Leslie said and read the manual; step by step directions. The bolts will take some force; a 3/8 drive is useless in this arena.

The valve train assembly comes off with the five sets of bolts. Once the bolts are pulled, before picking the train off take the valve cover and drop it upsidedown on top of the assembly and thread the cover bolts (acorn looking ones) back into their perspective holes enough to keep them from coming out. Then lift the entire thing out and set aside.

More knowledgeable folks will have to chime in on the rest, head gasket was as far down as I had to tear it. Good luck!

 

[tightgroup]

Leslie,

Thank You, much appreciated .
Superpowerdave, thanks for the kind words, I know I will need them

TG

 

[tightgroup]

Well finally got the head off today. It was snowing -4c and a wind blowing up my butt.
This engine has seen some serious miles The cylinders on visual inspection shows considerable wear. There is a good 1/8 - 3/16 inch of gunk on the pistons, running rich . But what has me worried is the growth on the valves, its a sort of spongee material, like foam that has formed on the valves of nu# 2-3.

I will try and get some pics posted .

Did anyone see something like this before ?

Thanks

TG

 

[Leslie]

Carbon buildup.

Take the head and have a shop do a valve job on it (or do it yourself); remove the pistons, clean them up and have an inspection on them... hone the cylinders and new rings at least, but maybe new pistons too.

 

[antichrist]

If the cylinder show significant wear, you'll probably need them bored and oversize pistons/rings fitted. I'd at the least measure the ID of the cylinders and see if they are anywhere near spec. It would suck to do all that work and then it not run much better because the cylinders are so worn the pistons are slapping around in them.

 

[tightgroup]

Antichrist, I know what yopu are saying. I have been looking for a Dial bore gauge for the last 2 days. All I get are blank stares and glossy eyes.

There is enough wear since I can actually feel the difference with my finger nail. I would say the thickness of a finger nail is worn out.

Not sure to just hone it or get it bored. Though I have to clean out those pistons...

Leslie, I will also have them put in harden seats for unleaded. This is a pre unleaded head ...


All I can say for sure and with a good degree of certainty is that my hard earned cash is earmaked for quick disposal.....

Its like money never wants to stick around, just itching to go

For anyone in Canada or Quebec do you know were I can get a dial bore gauge , an engine hoist and maybe an engine stand...

Thanks

TG

 

[Leslie]

http://www.starrett.com/

 

[antichrist]

What you want is an inside micrometer and and outside micrometer. A Starrett bore guage to read that large a bore will set you back about $600.
If you can't find what you need there let me know and I can get you the two micometers you need for about $100, in the "enconomy" style, but that's what I have and they worked fine for me.
However, if the cylinder is that worn, I'd get it bored, in which case forget about the micrometers as they'll do the measurements at the machine shop. Put the money in to pistons and so on.

 

[tightgroup]

Thanks Leslie , Antichrist.

I was surfing last night and I came across this :

http://www.mcdonaldlandroverengines.co.uk/engines.html

I saw some very good prices for heads and blocks. For me its actually cheaper to get his performance head at 250 quid , then doing the work locally (harden seats, valve guides, etc etc) and buying the parts for the rest of the work.

A short block 2.25 (5mb) 400 quid!?!??!

Did anyone do business with these people or know of their quality and service?

Or is this too good to be true

TG

 

[antichrist]

Check out PA Blanchard as well. They often have new and reman ex-MoD engines. Both 3 and 5 main I think.

 

[tightgroup]

First thank you to all, this is a very nice board.

Though i will be selling the series for parts! I have reached a point of no return. I must remove my emotions from the equation and deal with reality! The reality is that I am spending way more money for the usefullness of the series.

So I will looking for a good RRC or Disco, and build from that platform.


I will miss Sparky, a true friend !

Tg

 

[apg]

General rule of thumb on new pistons is to measure the wear on the bore, double that, then go with the next largest size piston.

Example, on my 2.25, I had .007" of wear after about 150k miles. Doubled that (.015" +-), then had the shop machine the bores to .020 over - and that's the size pistons I bought.

You did keep the pushrods in order like the book said, eh?

 

[tightgroup]

apg,

Oh yeah, everything was done by the book. The only thing is that cracked block
I just noticed it when I started to hoist the engine out...

I will be selling the series and rebuilding something else. Thats life. All this started because I swapped in a electronic ignition system (pertronix) ..

It went to hell in a handbasket from that point on..

I guess the igntion revealed other problems which lead me to remove the head, in which i found this..

Should not have touched it ....

TG

 

[byronAU]

apg,

Oh yeah, everything was done by the book. The only thing is that cracked block
I just noticed it when I started to hoist the engine out...

I will be selling the series and rebuilding something else. Thats life. All this started because I swapped in a electronic ignition system (pertronix) ..

It went to hell in a handbasket from that point on..

I guess the igntion revealed other problems which lead me to remove the head, in which i found this..

Should not have touched it ....

TG

Those damn Pertronix ignitions!......they'll do it every time.

 

[tightgroup]

But and there is always a but with Landies.

I will be building a Hybrid Range Rover 2 door. This will be a RRC 2 door swapped on a Disco chassis and drive train.

Chassis is going to be galvanized, engine rebuilt, R380 with LT230, if money permits, twin ARB lockers, 4,10 and a roll cage. Lift will be moderate one inch body lift and a 1.5 - 2.0 inch OEM coil and shock lift. 4.0 will be managed by Megasquirt, with spark control firing the coils. Throttle body enhancements, MAF will be ignored, new injectors, cam and lifters. Might go with electric fans, controlled by the ecu.

I will post my build in the Rangie or Disco tech sections as soon as I get started.

Again thanks to all who have helped, very nice and helpful board.

Now watch for my stupid questions, soon to come

TG