Headstud info

[Mosin dude]

Good afternoon all!

I have a real newbie question and maybe one of you fellow enthusiats can answer it. I purchased a headstud kit from lucky 8 several months ago and finally got it in. While looking up the torque specs and torque pattern I noticed that Lucky 8 has the kit listed as ARP part number 157-5401. When I punch that arp number into the google machine it comes up as an arp main stud kit. My question is, are they the same studs? Did lucky 8 make a typo and they are actually selling the headstuds just with the wrong part number listed? I guess I could always call lucky 8 but figured I would reach out here first.


Here is the link to the product on their site:

ARP Engine Head Stud Kit

If your doing your head gaskets we recommend our ARP head stud kit. This stud kit has proven to be far superior to the factory stretch bolts. Please not the torque specifications are as followed. 20 / 40 / 80fp in the same sequence as standard bolts. Part Number: ARPSK FREE SHIPPING TO THE...

lucky8llc.com

Thanks,
Mosin Dude

 

[4Runner]

From the picture, there are too many studs to be a main stud kit.

 

[4Runner]

Also do your research on what the final torque number should be. I remember for a while the ARP number was too high.

 

[Mosin dude]

Also do your research on what the final torque number should be. I remember for a while the ARP number was too high.

Thanks for the reply, and the info! I think the latest numbers I've found are 80 ft lbs.

 

[mearstrae]

Be sure to have your heads straightened, the face has to be perfectly flat (or you'll be doing the job again shortly). Also, use a light coat of Loctite Teflon Paste (not tape) on the block side stud threads (especially on a 4.6, as they have a tendency to have hairline cracks around the upper row of bolt holes). Be sure to use the ARP lube lightly between the washer and bolt head only, not between the washer and the cylinder head,

 

[Mosin dude]

Be sure to have your heads straightened, the face has to be perfectly flat (or you'll be doing the job again shortly). Also, use a light coat of Loctite Teflon Paste (not tape) on the block side stud threads (especially on a 4.6, as they have a tendency to have hairline cracks around the upper row of bolt holes). Be sure to use the ARP lube lightly between the washer and bolt head only, not between the washer and the cylinder head,

Thanks for the info man! Im ready tp get this rig back on the road

 

[Stocksuspension66]

I use arp head studs on my top hat fresh rebuild. Bitch still leaked. Next time I’ll maybe I’ll try an mls gasket

 

[robertf]

same. Top hat block, arp stud kit, put together in 2020. It just started dumping coolant out the back drivers side after about 25k.

I havent torn it apart yet, but if theres not a visible defect on the gasket that I overlooked Im going back to bolts.

The beck arnley bolt set seems legit. lots of garbage out there. Some rover parts shops are even shipping non tty bolts.

 

[mlnnc]

I replaced the headgaskets in my truck years ago after someone driving it at the time kept rolling despite it overheating due to a failed TBH draining the coolant. That was 70,000 miles ago. Standard TTY head bolts from Mr. Schram. All is well.

 

[terryjm1]

I may have missed someone answering the question but Lucky 8 puts together their own set of studs from some sort of bulk order from ARP.. That is why their kit is less expensive. I asked the same question to Lucky 8 before I purchased.

 

[robertf]

I started taking the heads off the truck that was leaking and it took a whole 30 ft lbs to undo the nuts. These were assembled at 80ftlbs.

out the window, or what ever that deal was. The TTY bolts will be going in. Unfortunately this means taking both sides apart

 

[robertf]

I should have opened the beck arnley box before today. Its not the same as what I got last time. Instead, its garbage

No neck down for the tty, stamped with a metric grade. I might use these bolts for playground equipment or an at home gym, but not a cylinder head

 

[ERover82]

I should have opened the beck arnley box before today. Its not the same as what I got last time. Instead, its garbage

No neck down for the tty, stamped with a metric grade. I might use these bolts for playground equipment or an at home gym, but not a cylinder head

I’d contact BA and ask wtf is going on.

 

[robertf]

it may have been victor reinz. it was something german sounding and a blue and white box.
I cant find the VR bolts sold outside a complete headgasket kit, so I got one of those on the way along with this

Land Rover Head Bolt Kit, Fits Discovery, Range Rover & Defender Vehicles

Order Land Rover head bolt kits, item 9224 for your Discovery, Range Rover or Defender vehicles. Atlantic British sells Land Rover engine parts and kits online and in catalog.

www.roverparts.com

Those look OE. I really hope they don't swap it out for some all makes garbage like what they may have done here https://www.roverparts.com/engine/kits/9224a/

 

[robertf]

here is the garbage I bought in 2020 before buying the arp kit.

my receipt shows the last tty bolts I used were BA 016-1045 purchased at the same time as a victor reins hg set, and Im wondering if partsgeek substituted a VR kit that included bolts

 

[best4x4]

I haven't had any issues with the ARP stuff. Loctite paste on the studs (clean threaded holes), cleaned heads where washer goes, did 25LB let it sit, did 50LB let it sit, and finished up with 75LB (did 75LB because data back in the day always said 70 or 80 so I met em in the middle).

One of my last HG jobs whenever the engine was warming up it would snap/crackle/pop with the TTY bolts I got with the kit. ARP = no snap/crackle/pop noises when the engine is warming up.

 

[robertf]

Thats funny you mention the snap crackle pop noises. When I put this one together the banging noises as it cooled down the first time were very noticeable.

This is the 2nd engine I've built with studs and as luck would have it, both blew the head gasket Jan this year. The other one was torqued to 100 ft lbs based on ARPs first revision of instructions. It went about 80k, but its life was a little rougher. It had 4.0 pistons and ran like a rocket until a trip to the upper peninsula where they only sell the low octane and it pinged itself across Michigan and was never the same after that trip.

I'm done with studs, and also done with 4.0 pistons.

 

[jymmiejamz]

Outside of occasional running hot issues, my d90 was fine with TTY head bolts. It had a 4.6 with heads that were machined at least twice, and pistons that were even shallower than 4.0 pistons (with cutouts for the valves). I don’t know what the compression ratio was, but I did a compression test and it had ~230 psi on each cylinder. That was fine for 90k miles when i sold it

 

[terryjm1]

I will be putting a 4.6 together sometime this year and am debating ARP studs or tty.. I have also been debating 4.0 or 4.6 pistons. i have been leaning toward the 4.6 pistons because I live at high elevation and the highest octane available is 90. Also, I’d rather not have to add octane booster.

 

[StangGT5]

The stories about head studs cracking blocks (admittedly, at the previous higher torque rating) scared me away from ever using them. I used to go with TTY bolts from AB, but the last three engines I built and one on the stand are using ARP bolts from West Coast British.

Knock on wood, no problems so far. Torque rating is 70-72ft-lbs according to WCB, though they recommend checking them down the road. The last 4.6 I built had everything one could do done to it (cam, ported heads and intake) except for 4.0 pistons. My top hat block on the stand is getting those, so we'll see. The builders I talked to about 4.0 pistons all said they're fine, especially in a Bosch application, as Rovers require premium anyway.

The pistons in my RPI 4.6 were flycut. I have never seen flycut pistons for a RV8, so not sure where they came from. It is rated at around 320hp according to the brochure I got with the RRC its in, and it ran fine on 93 octane.