Heater Core

[brianb883]

So I've recently been noticing my coolant level is slowly dropping, but I can't spot any leaks. I then noticed that with the HVAC off and the sunroofs open, steam coming out of the vent to the right of my radio, and occasional steam from the windshield defrost vents.

I talked with PT Schram (Thanks!) and we concluded that It's either the heater core, or the o-rings. I'm planning on doing this job soon, and ordered a set of O-Rings.

I want to be sure it's not the heater core though. I have a pressure tester, but it won't fit on the coolant tank in the rover. Does anyone know where I can find an adapter to attach a standard radiator pressure tester to the rover expansion tank on a 2004 D2?

Also, does anybody have any suggestions/help before I start this project? I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but taking out my entire dashboard is a bit of a big job.

Thank you!

 

[pdxrovermech]

we got our adapter from our snap on guy. start by pulling your glove box so you can get you head in there a fair amount to check the o-rings. one of those snake cameras comes in handy for that too. if you do think its just the o-rings, then from there you can take that side panel off of the center console, take a hole saw and cut a big hole in the side of the exposed plastic. if you do it in the right spot you can then use a long screw driver to get to screw on the heater pipe clamp.

 

[crown14]

A pressure tester isn't going to tell you anything you can't figure out already.

Relax, pulling the dash is not that hard. And, because you will have to do the same amount of work to replace the o-rings, you should go ahead and replace the heater core at the same time. I like to replace the heater hoses at the same time, too but that is up to you.

 

[pdxrovermech]

forget everything i just said. i see its a D2 not a P38. i've honestly never had to do that job on a D2.

 

[bigcheif]

I got a pressure tester from harbor freight. it has all the adapters for all makes and models! I am VEARY pleased with this kit! it helped me pin point the intake gasket leak.

 

[DiscoRover007]

I just did my own heater core replacement this past month. My suggestions:

1. Don't be fooled, even if it's the o-rings you'll need to remove the dash. The heater core is held in place by the pressure the heater pipes put on it upon assembly.

2. There is no short cut to this job. Believe me, I even tried to saw the plastic in the dash, pry off the heater pipes etc. All you will do is damage the core and pipes and you'll just be adding more stuff to replace.

3. Follow the Rave, it seems like a big job but in the end it is not that bad. Once you get off the support brackets to the dash, there are only about 4-6 main bolts holding the dash in the place.

4. The biggest hiccup I had was taking off the steering wheel. I used bp blaster. Take a rubber hammer and beat it from the back(THE BACK) of the wheel at 3 oclock and 9 o'clock positions., once you get the center locking nut off of course.

5. Be careful with the screws holding the heater matrix bracket and the pipes bracket, they strip very easily.

6. You'll need to bleed the freeon out of the AC. I used a valve stem tool and bled it slowly from the high and low pressure caps. I know im an asshole because i didn't get it vacuumed out.

7. You can use metal file folder clips to remove the stereo.

8. The center console will also need to be removed. Once you learn the process it's not that big of a deal. I could probably take apart my dash and console in 2 and a half hours now.

9. If it helps, take a marker to mark what wiring connections go where. Although most of the connections can only go in one place.

10. Go ahead and move your seats as far back as you can to give you as much room as possible to work.

11. Pull some of the passenger carpet out and take some towels and get your floorboard as dry as you can. You don't want stagnant coolant/water sitting in there.

12. Get some good leather/interior treatment products and get your dash/console as pretty as can be. My interior seriously looks factory new now because I bothered to do this.

13. If you end up replacing the heater pipes, you'll notice that the replacement pipes you get are not exactly the same as the factory pipes. They still fit but they are a little bent ( I got mine from Atlantic British). It will take a little bit of time for you to figure out the correct position/location the pipes need to be at on the HVAC bracket. I suggest attaching the pipes to the heater core first and loosely bolt on the matrix support bracket. Then you have a little wiggle room from there to figure it out. Use a marker to mark the positioning. All of this can be avoided however if you do not damage the stock heater pipes. When you finally get to remove the core I suggest removing the bracket(HVAC) holding the pipes, not the pipes themselves. They are at a position for best fitment, though if you must remove the pipes, mark there position.

14. Good luck!

 

[kc disco guy]

Do not remove your whole dash (pm me your number and I will call you) Lmfao



You can change the heater core in about three hours on a disco with out removing the dash it is way easier than that

 

[DiscoRover007]

I'd like to know how you did it then. You did a shorter method on the DII? I know there is an access panel on the Discovery I but there is no such thing on the DII(At least the 2003-that is the only year I have experience on).

 

[kc disco guy]

I will get a step by step up shortly i have done to many Frickin heater cores on these to not know the short cut

 

[kc disco guy]

Alright guys this is a very helpful short cut for heater core replacement!!! It's the same on our discovery!
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-...90-heater-core-replacement-shortcuts-lhd.html

 

[DiscoRover007]

I have seen this shortcut before I do not see how it is applicable to the D2. This method would be effective in having access to removing the core. But the heater pipes are attached to the HVAC, those pipes hold the core in place. I don't see how the pipes can be pulled back enough without damaging them. Is there a tool you would use? The reason the manual calls for dash/HVAC removal is because the bracket holding the pipes has a screw with the thread facing the seats. It can only be loosened from behind which there is no room for.

I've pulled several heater cores in junk yards without taking out the dash because I didn't give a damn. But i couldn't do it without bending the pipes or nicking and damaging the heater core/pipe mating surfaces. If i'm wrong please correct me on this because I too am interested and searched for short cuts and I did not see this as one of them.

 

[kc disco guy]

I used no special tools for anything when doing these and I have done 13 to date. You will be very surprised how much you can flex the dash when pulling on it. Remove the clamps and and the little bracket that hold both lines together then push them back gently and out of the way the worst part is being so careful with the new core because of how soft the aluminum is, its very easy to bend. If you bend it the pipes or core it will never mate up correctly and its a waist. Just keep in mind that this is saving you a lot of work and time so take your time and be careful and don't get to forceful with the pipes and the core. I have done this without making the two cuts he is describing but its a very tight squeeze to get out old and put in new.

 

[DiscoRover007]

Hmm that is interesting. But how do you manage to loosen the bracket holding the pipes together? I just ask because that damn screw ruins everything, if it was only facing the other way then it would be a very simple job. Even by pulling the dash, the HVAC is bolted to the firewall, so the bracket shouldnt be able to move with the dash... How did you get a ratchet or screw driver back there?

I will definitely be doing this if my core fails again but hopefully i wont have to worry about that anymore.

 

[kc disco guy]

I hope that never happens to you again also but I use a bit and a pair of long needle nose plyers to loosen that screw little by little ( its a short screw) and then always put it back on facing me.

 

[DiscoRover007]

Aha! That would do it! That is clever I did not think of that! If only I knew lol. Oh well at least I have experience taking the thing apart now. If you put it back in with the head facing you, would that reduce the force that the pipes were designed to put on the heater core? Though I suppose since you have done so many it makes a negligible difference.

 

[kc disco guy]

Let's put it this way I have not had any come back in leaking or anything so I can say it has not been a problem for me! The first three I did I had removed the whole dash and I was so glad to come across this short cut, except now I have to do everyone that comes in here.

 

[crown14]

It's still faster to pull the dash. Only reason not to is being scared.

 

[kc disco guy]

Its a 3 hour job to do it following this process or a 8 to 10 hour job to pull the dash it has nothing to do with being scared its saving time and cutting the work in half. If you bring it to this dirty lr service center the guy at the desk will charge you for 11 labor and it will only take me 3-4 hours tops its pretty shady but thats book hours you get charged for.

 

[crown14]

You are wrong, and repeating yourself only shows that you don't know what you are talking about. Pulling the dash takes nowhere near that long. People who cut corners like you are suggesting on a job like this are only contributing to the problem. I bet you are one of those guys who puts RTV on the O-rings too.

 

[DiscoRover007]

When i replaced mine it took me forever because I had never done it before. But I'd say I could take the dash out in a solid 2 and half - 3 hours now. I think this short cut could be done in the same amount of time, but for people who havent taken the dash off before, it is a learning process that could take a very long time. The benefit to the shortcut though is that you don't have to bleed the A/C and you don't risk messing up any wiring connections.

I also don't think this short cut requires cutting on the D2. The dash does flex a lot from my experience.